tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29807869437252310952024-03-13T23:10:02.289+08:00Marbelup ModelsUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-6409122333679073812023-11-29T10:27:00.000+08:002023-11-29T10:27:08.767+08:00Marbelup Models Home Page<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4hviLFOpD0I/Um4yvziefWI/AAAAAAAAAj4/eOaLV43Onro/s1600/R+Class+LE.jpg" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4hviLFOpD0I/Um4yvziefWI/AAAAAAAAAj4/eOaLV43Onro/s1600/R+Class+LE.jpg" width="200" /></a>
High quality 3D-printed models of Western Australian trains in Sn3½ Scale.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-size: 18.72px; font-weight: 400;">Marbelup Models is taking a break and is not accepting any new orders.</span></h2>
<br /></div><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/12/latest-news.html" target="_blank">Latest News</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-catalogue.html" target="">Catalogue</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/whats-in-works.html" target="_blank">What's In the Works?</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-how-to-order.html" target="">How to Order</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-available-for-immediate.html">In Stock Now</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/customer-photo-gallery.html">Customer Photo Gallery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/about-marbelup-models.html">About Us</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-faq.html">Frequently Asked Questions</a></li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-catalogue.html" target="">Instructions</a></li>
</ul>
</h3>
<div>
<br />
For further information, please send email to <a href="mailto:marbelup3d@gmail.com" target="_blank">marbelup3d@gmail.com</a>. Please note that former iinet address will soon cease to operate as iinet are no longer supporting email services.<br />
<a href="mailto:marbelupmodels@iinet.net.au" target="_blank"><br /></a>
Also see the <a href="https://springdale-miniature-railway.blogspot.com/2023/11/springdale-miniature-railway.html" target="_blank">Springdale Miniature Railway</a> blog. </div><div><br /></div><div>Note that the <a href="http://members.iinet.net/~richardstallard/marbelup/" target="_blank">Marbelup Valley Railway</a> web site is not available due to iiNet no longer hosting users' web sites.</div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comPerth WA, Australia-31.9530044 115.85746930000005-33.6771809 113.27568230000004 -30.228827900000002 118.43925630000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-25585936413589617242023-11-14T12:08:00.000+08:002023-11-14T12:08:27.364+08:00A1501 Series Locomotive Assembly Tips<p> </p><h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">A1501 Series Locomotive Assembly Instructions</h3><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-1531251590458116424" itemprop="description articleBody" style="background-color: white; line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 578px;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLp23cwl_ApKVLH1iV0-gXYRuCHqDXrZoRhL05eVjBccKGFYC2hj9bMAUqr3U9ITQdDl0GlwZf7esn4OoOZwI1ziE7yWtGB0P5mpI4C0PJ2EWOjtLgrU_I26fyw71TS667LZNBTHbNPZqcGX1mwJFCv0rhcKJl524-fsQQf9x5fncdB-WiCggqeKeW/s1585/A1501%20Screenshot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="1585" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLp23cwl_ApKVLH1iV0-gXYRuCHqDXrZoRhL05eVjBccKGFYC2hj9bMAUqr3U9ITQdDl0GlwZf7esn4OoOZwI1ziE7yWtGB0P5mpI4C0PJ2EWOjtLgrU_I26fyw71TS667LZNBTHbNPZqcGX1mwJFCv0rhcKJl524-fsQQf9x5fncdB-WiCggqeKeW/w400-h168/A1501%20Screenshot.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"></p><p style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 18px;">A1501 Series Loco Assembly Tips - Draft: More Details to be Added.</span></p><div class="post-header" style="color: #999999; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5px; line-height: 1.6; margin: 0px 0px 1.5em;"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-3252976774345903139" itemprop="description articleBody" style="line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 578px;"><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">These instructions are preliminary and further information will be added as time permits. Some diagrams and text still refer to AB loco and will be updated in due course. Please do not hesitate to contact Marbelup Models if you find any missing information as this will prompt updates to this page. </span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><h2 style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">PARTS LIST </span></h2><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">3D-Printed Parts</span></h3><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><ul style="line-height: 1.4; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">Underframe</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">Fuel Tank</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Body</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Exhaust panel</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Parts sprue containing motor mounts, drive shafts, horns, and coupler shims.</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Bogie Sideframes.</li></ul></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-8956757863038779573" itemprop="description articleBody" style="line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 578px;"><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><h3 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Mechanical Parts</h3><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><ul style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 1.4; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"># North Yard (NZ) drive bogies for WAGR A Class with 2 mm diameter worm shafts.</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Motor - Auscision part no. SP-1. Includes twin brass flywheels.</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Drive cups to suit 2 mm diameter shaft. (2 required). Four drive cups are included in North West Short Line (NWSL) U-Joint set 489-6.</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Brass Strip 6 x 1 mm, 2 required. ( K&S part 9843 contains 3 strips.)</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Fixing screws for body, couplers and fuel tank:<br /></span># 2-56 x 11 mm, 12 required for body fixing screws and couplers<br /># 2-56 x 6 mm, 2 required for fuel tank.</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Fixing screws for motor mounts - self tappers, 1.5 mm dia. x 6 mm long (4 required). </span></li></ul><div>For items above marked with #, Marbelup Models has a limited quantity available for sale. </div></div><h3 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Miscellaneous Parts</h3><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><ul style="line-height: 1.4; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Air hoses - e.g. Detail Associates </span><a href="https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/229-6206" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 14.85px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">#6206</a><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"> - 4 required. (Vacuum brake hoses are included.)</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Handrail Stanchions (3) (optional) - </span><a href="http://ppw-aline.com/collections/handrail-stanchions" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 14.85px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">A-Line D1072</a><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">. .</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Brass wire for handrails, etc. (0.4 mm - 1 x 300 mm length, 0.6 mm - 3 x 300 mm lengths)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Kadee couplers #146 for scale coupler height, #149 for HO coupler height (see below)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Kadee draft gear boxes #242 (supplied as standard with Whisker couplers)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Scrap styrene sheet, 0.25 mm thick (preferably black) for reducing coupler "droop".</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">DCC decoder and speaker (both optional)</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs), optional, for headlights 4 x 3 mm (sunny white) and optic fibre (2 mm)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">LEDs (red and white) and optic fibre, if operating marker lights desired</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">lead or other weighting material</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Paint and decals, as desired.</span></li></ul><div><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">For items above marked with #, Marbelup Models has a limited quantity available for sale. Other items will need to be purchased from local hobby shops or online sources.</span></div></div><br /><h2 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase;">UNDERFRAME PREPARATION</h2><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Remove the support structure from the 3D-printed underframe. </div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Take particular care around areas with delicate detail, including the vacuum hoses and the areas highlighted in the following images.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmUCG1fmzfAeDfNIxjVKF7CcmcbKtFEAujuR7KIV5i5MMZ1shv_bKjIMAyswtPsaL9mCZz_1NffZLeood-BmoMDTvNaFULRZ331L0-hb3r_FRdSM8k-IR2Z3NkzGKUMB7F1waZ4RVixWSj8et4OUEzKYJrOUrxBnI4JKc37mqXX81r3Jqct4gsk-lZ/s1465/A1501%20UF%20Delicate%20Parts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="181" data-original-width="1465" height="50" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmUCG1fmzfAeDfNIxjVKF7CcmcbKtFEAujuR7KIV5i5MMZ1shv_bKjIMAyswtPsaL9mCZz_1NffZLeood-BmoMDTvNaFULRZ331L0-hb3r_FRdSM8k-IR2Z3NkzGKUMB7F1waZ4RVixWSj8et4OUEzKYJrOUrxBnI4JKc37mqXX81r3Jqct4gsk-lZ/w400-h50/A1501%20UF%20Delicate%20Parts.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Details</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br />Clean out the indicated holes (4) with a 1.8 mm drill bit and tap with 2-56 thread. </span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Note: Don't use an 8BA tap. Although the thread size is similar to 2-56, the supplied 2-56 screws will be very tight in the tapped holes and will damage the threads.</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CMwUdLEdh658-9gOYC7W03dZfKPsNYGI7BZpAupRWkP3gT_9kcbyysuQKZaV8mH3jFv5en-g_8Zm1NTr78sUy9DPZv87BFJV6ryLw7A46MLH_PHNFR5MNV5D64CvVaYvxbENR2ItwDcmT3PelM3fM-r8Dj4_5S0_kK53xQ0YzScawfKB73oUrtl3/s1417/A1501%20UF%202-56%20Holes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="291" data-original-width="1417" height="83" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4CMwUdLEdh658-9gOYC7W03dZfKPsNYGI7BZpAupRWkP3gT_9kcbyysuQKZaV8mH3jFv5en-g_8Zm1NTr78sUy9DPZv87BFJV6ryLw7A46MLH_PHNFR5MNV5D64CvVaYvxbENR2ItwDcmT3PelM3fM-r8Dj4_5S0_kK53xQ0YzScawfKB73oUrtl3/w400-h83/A1501%20UF%202-56%20Holes.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Holes to be Tapped 2-56 (viewed from below)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Clean out the indicated holes (4) with a 1.2 mm drill bit for later fitment of the motor mounts. </span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNUbgqNaMo6kufZCkFjPDyS8irKztBDNMUA1iHOBYBasGVxdtsIVqQqyY4p0GwhNGL8YT1nIz68iydx9Rx94PhluokpTKNKduR53jhSl6BGJndKwBLMO65M9DzlA7r3ZRfbBkLhmFLsP69QG7X4jCMYcVLg5-joR_muoVLldi6rByTr42eTTUBb5Y/s1420/A1501%20UF%20Holes%201.2mm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="1420" height="80" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNUbgqNaMo6kufZCkFjPDyS8irKztBDNMUA1iHOBYBasGVxdtsIVqQqyY4p0GwhNGL8YT1nIz68iydx9Rx94PhluokpTKNKduR53jhSl6BGJndKwBLMO65M9DzlA7r3ZRfbBkLhmFLsP69QG7X4jCMYcVLg5-joR_muoVLldi6rByTr42eTTUBb5Y/w400-h80/A1501%20UF%20Holes%201.2mm.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Holes to be Drilled 1.2 mm (viewed from above)</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div></div><h3 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Brass Reinforcing Strips <br /><br /></h3><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">The underframe is reinforced by two brass strips, which must be cut to length and notched, as the diagram below, to fit snugly behind the end steps. </div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Note that the dimensions in the diagram are a guide. You may have to trim the ends and/or notches slightly in order for the brass strips to fit so don't force them if they seem too tight. Make sure you remove any rough edges from the brass.</span></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznsxnAOJa_7XfWlLJL-7POov-pBl_TRPlRgaEiGzX1ejxvLybuvXREcjole03vxxpD1-aOEs4ky5-CCH2Qu22KXeKk5PAuC69jslDJSRmXjLYlMqldbr9sQ0EJUKjwWPyYXMDaehZKSm-4ppAr2enkwQDy2LgqxPIu7P9C-8LurGiau3zN8Xy4ahX/s1826/A1501%20UF%20Brass%20Strip.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="258" data-original-width="1826" height="56" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznsxnAOJa_7XfWlLJL-7POov-pBl_TRPlRgaEiGzX1ejxvLybuvXREcjole03vxxpD1-aOEs4ky5-CCH2Qu22KXeKk5PAuC69jslDJSRmXjLYlMqldbr9sQ0EJUKjwWPyYXMDaehZKSm-4ppAr2enkwQDy2LgqxPIu7P9C-8LurGiau3zN8Xy4ahX/w400-h56/A1501%20UF%20Brass%20Strip.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dimensions for Brass Strips (2 required)</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeE53-7dzs4wShXhTSkdqNyGXu1bHAItTwYN3e-ZUfig277D0lDY-6SyD1NmP_mIXR4ENCoZl_jMEnSALhM4bXUM46xkjncqNgNsqvdrgF5G-qNTa7ZqQDgYsmoDVhV2Yza60wFEdl3uxEF06o8XhMbKCE_N6QdtwSPLLLxZzVMwsuR7_DG4oNR6Dh/s1452/A1501%20UF%20Strips%20in%20Place.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="1452" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeE53-7dzs4wShXhTSkdqNyGXu1bHAItTwYN3e-ZUfig277D0lDY-6SyD1NmP_mIXR4ENCoZl_jMEnSALhM4bXUM46xkjncqNgNsqvdrgF5G-qNTa7ZqQDgYsmoDVhV2Yza60wFEdl3uxEF06o8XhMbKCE_N6QdtwSPLLLxZzVMwsuR7_DG4oNR6Dh/w400-h166/A1501%20UF%20Strips%20in%20Place.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brass Strip Placement</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #fcff01;">With some prior planning, the brass strips can also serve as electrical busbars to carry power from the bogie pickups to the motor or via a DCC decoder. Contact Marbelup Models if you are interested in more details on this option. Note that it will require wires to be soldered to the brass strips and this must be done prior to gluing the strips in position.</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Secure the brass strips, e.g. with superglue.</span></div></span><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br style="font-size: 16.335px; text-align: left;" /></div></div><br /><h3 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;"></h3><h3 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Bogies and Drive Train</h3><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Remove and discard the brass cross-bearers from the North Yard drive bogies.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Fit a drive cup to the worm shaft on each bogie, so that the end of the shaft is flush with the inside of the drive cup.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">3D printed bogie side frames are included, based on a design by </span><a href="http://butlersswampmodels.blogspot.com/2014/12/newly-released-class-bogies-for.html" style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Butlers Swamp Models</a><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">, with a couple of cosmetic improvements by Marbelup Models. Install the bogie sideframes from the top of the North Yard bogies, and secure with the 2 mm screws provided. Don't overtighten the screws, as this could distort or split the ends of the bogie sideframes.</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><div dir="ltr" style="font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Install the bogies using the shouldered brass screws and springs provided, with the spring on top of the 3D printed underframe. As an option, one spring can be omitted which will allow one bogie to rock more easily to accommodate any track irregularities.</span></div></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Note that it will be necessary to temporarily remove two of the tiny black screws securing the inner bearing for the worm shaft, to allow the worm shaft assembly to pivot upwards during the installation of the bogies. When replacing them, do not overtighten. The worm drive will run smoother if these are backed off approx. 1/2 turn from tight.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Marbelup Models has limited stock of spare screws M1.4 x 3 mm long, in case any go missing.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Fit the two 3D-printed motor mount brackets using four 1.5 x 6 mm self tapping screws.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;">Fit the two 3D-printed drive shafts into the drive cups in both the motor and bogie worm shafts, and gently guide the motor into the mounting brackets. Insert the motor slightly angled to the vertical at first, to allow the lower solder terminal to fit around the mounting bracket, then rotate the motor to the vertical position as it move into its proper position.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NI577kYspCE/X_qmpR7C01I/AAAAAAAAEfE/ZM7FEJmHGa8OPstPwHgYAYJfydkWu5YxQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1849/AB%2BUF%2BMech%2BAssy.jpg" style="color: #336699; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="769" data-original-width="1849" height="166" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NI577kYspCE/X_qmpR7C01I/AAAAAAAAEfE/ZM7FEJmHGa8OPstPwHgYAYJfydkWu5YxQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h166/AB%2BUF%2BMech%2BAssy.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.068px; text-align: center;">Mechanism Assembly</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px;">When assembled on its bogies, the top surface of the "footplate" should be 25.5 mm above rail level.</span></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><h4 style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Power Pickups and Motor Wiring</h4><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on">The North Yard bogies incorporate "split frame" power pickups which means that each of the black metal side frames is electrically connected to the wheels via the bronze bearing blocks. Although the axles are metal, each axle is electrically insulated inside the central gear to avoid a short circuit across the rails. </div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on">The gear towers include small solder tags secured to each side plate by means of small (M1.4) screws. Internal wiring should be soldered to each of the solder tags which can then be detached from the bogies to allow removal of the bogies without desoldering. </div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on">The Auscision motor is not specifically marked as to + and -, but it seems that the motor terminal which has a small, round hole adjacent to it is the + terminal.</div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">For DC operation, the + terminal of the motor should be wired to the bogie sideplate on the right side as determined when the loco is moving forwards and the - terminal to the left sideplate. </span><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">This will ensure the loco's direction is consistent with other DC locos,</span></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on">For DCC operation, the + terminal of the motor should be wired to the orange wire and the - terminal to the grey wire. Refer to the instructions which accompanied your DCC decoder for full details of DCC wiring.</div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">Couplers</span></h3></div><div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><div style="font-size: 14.85px;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">The coupler height of the AB loco has been set at the correct scale height for WAGR/Westrail narrow gauge rollingstock, i.e. 12.0 mm (above rail height) rather than the HO coupler height (9.9 mm) which is commonly used for most Sn3½ models. This has been done because the correct height "looks better" for modern locos and rollingstock. For correct scale coupler height, use Kadee #146 couplers. </span></span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Provision has been made in the underframe design to lower the couplers to match the HO coupler height by using Kadee #149 couplers which have an "overset" shank together with a spacer approx. 0.8 mm thick between the coupler box and mounting pad. Two thicknesses of spacer are included in the parts sprue, or you can use styrene sheet to make a spacer to fine tune the coupler height if required. </span></span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div style="font-size: 16.335px;">If intending to fit couplers at HO height, file out 0.8 mm from the bottom of the coupler mounting holes, as per diagram below. The headstock is only 0.5 mm thick in this region.</div><div style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CX7uCLt6bXQ/X_kkxhHiqhI/AAAAAAAAEeU/BVlUyb5-Cxgpw6MDQVGJF1eab0UUtELVQCNcBGAsYHQ/s843/AB%2BUF%2BCoupler%2BMount.jpg" style="color: #336699; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="843" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CX7uCLt6bXQ/X_kkxhHiqhI/AAAAAAAAEeU/BVlUyb5-Cxgpw6MDQVGJF1eab0UUtELVQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h378/AB%2BUF%2BCoupler%2BMount.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.068px; text-align: center;">Headstock Modification for HO Coupler Height<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">The #146 and #149 couplers are both "long shank" style which avoids the problem of the "glad hand" on opposing couplers from fouling the cowcatcher. </span></span><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">The suggested draft gear boxes are Kadee </span><a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page262.htm" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">#242</a><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;"> (supplied as standard with Whisker couplers). Kadee suggest assembling the coupler so that the main part of the draft gear box is on the bottom and the lid is on top. </span><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">The draft gear boxes simply snap together. </span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">When assembled, the #242 draft gear box does have some excess vertical clearance for the coupler shank which allows for some undesirable "droop", which is more pronounced with the long shank couplers. The droop can be largely eliminated by gluing a strip of 0.25 mm styrene, say 2 mm wide (preferably black), across the front opening of the draft gear box. Prior to gluing, smooth off any rough edges from the styrene and use a minimum amount of liquid styrene cement. When the glue has dried, test fit the couplers in the draft gear boxes. If there is any restriction in side-to-side movement, lightly file the styrene strip to increase the clearance as needed.</span></div><div><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="color: #222222;">DCC and Sound</span></h3><div><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><span style="color: #222222;">Various sound decoders can be used provided they feature the EMD 567 Non-Turbo Prime Mover sounds. </span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The AB fuel tank is specially designed to accept an Auscision SP-58 speaker. These are available from </span></span><span style="color: #222222;">Auscision or their <a href="http://www.auscisionmodels.com.au/Speakers.htm" style="color: #336699; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Australian Modeller Shop</a> as a spare part. The mounting tabs on the speaker should be tapped 2-56 and countersunk screws, e.g. 2-56 x 8 mm, inserted from the underside of the fuel tank.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"> </span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">It is suggest to use a small 2-pin plug and socket to allow the fuel tank to be removed without unsoldering the speaker wires. There is room for the socket to sit between the speaker and motor when assembled.</span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ll6z79D3crM/X_koA2gE6fI/AAAAAAAAEeg/eM2f-oHzM7ElbFnQhvqbE4NfyKdnLYmkQCNcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="color: #336699; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img alt="" data-original-height="277" data-original-width="511" height="216" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ll6z79D3crM/X_koA2gE6fI/AAAAAAAAEeg/eM2f-oHzM7ElbFnQhvqbE4NfyKdnLYmkQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h216/image.png" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></div></span></div><div style="line-height: 21px;"><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span><br /><h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Body Preparation and Details</span></span></h3><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The loco body is printed in 1-piece except for the exhaust panel which is separate.</span></span></div><h4 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></h4><h4 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Body Clean up and Preparation</span></h4><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Take care when removing the support structure from the body, especially around the cab windows to avoid damaging the vertical dividers between the windows. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Once the body has been "cleaned up", it is also necessary to remove the two temporary braces which link the fixing posts near the centre of the body, as highlighted in yellow below. These have been included to protect the body during production and shipping, and must be cut away to provide clearance for the motor, etc. These can be cut with a fine-toothed razor saw or a cutting disk in a rotary tool, at low speed. </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYofBJRMhm4/VNrqAw3JpWI/AAAAAAAABLw/JqHHBEcHlgE/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BBraces.jpg" style="color: #6699cc; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYofBJRMhm4/VNrqAw3JpWI/AAAAAAAABLw/JqHHBEcHlgE/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BBraces.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The ten fixing holes in the body shell and nose should be tapped with a 2-56 thread (not 8-BA!). Clean out the holes prior to tapping using a 1.8 mm drill bit. Take care with the two fixing holes inside the cab as these are more delicate to allow fitting of the cab interior detail.</span></span><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">When assembling the body to the underframe, don't overtighten the screws as this can cause warping of the underframe.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><h3 style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Handrails</h3><div><br /></div><div>Refer to the following diagram and screenshots for handrail details. If you print the diagram, ensure you print at 100% size for accurate dimensions. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/15iSqpJod_8cMe_20UftvGXsLJJXu8US4/view?usp=sharing" style="color: #336699; font-size: 16.335px; text-decoration-line: none;">Handrail Diagram (PDF)</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div><div style="line-height: 21px;"><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCDbmi_mcR0/YBeP-HPTZ5I/AAAAAAAAEg0/jh_ql22U-AEPRD0ug50gsEjBSuR0aFZbQCNcBGAsYHQ/s775/AB%2BFront%2BHandrails.jpg" style="color: #336699; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="569" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCDbmi_mcR0/YBeP-HPTZ5I/AAAAAAAAEg0/jh_ql22U-AEPRD0ug50gsEjBSuR0aFZbQCNcBGAsYHQ/w294-h400/AB%2BFront%2BHandrails.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="294" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.068px; text-align: center;">Front Handrails</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SdN7w5ulWCE/YBeP-ID66sI/AAAAAAAAEgs/o1cMWrX1GqsY8kzwiVSes9AssxtcfXEhwCNcBGAsYHQ/s863/AB%2BRear%2BHandrails.jpg" style="color: #336699; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="863" data-original-width="642" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SdN7w5ulWCE/YBeP-ID66sI/AAAAAAAAEgs/o1cMWrX1GqsY8kzwiVSes9AssxtcfXEhwCNcBGAsYHQ/w298-h400/AB%2BRear%2BHandrails.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.068px; text-align: center;">Rear Handrails</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up8Bmaa_ALo/YBeP-guuKKI/AAAAAAAAEg4/yGxJSXAaJy4V7oo0P1wiTO9x6zuLz09MgCNcBGAsYHQ/s575/AB%2BTop%2BHandrail.jpg" style="color: #336699; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="522" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up8Bmaa_ALo/YBeP-guuKKI/AAAAAAAAEg4/yGxJSXAaJy4V7oo0P1wiTO9x6zuLz09MgCNcBGAsYHQ/w364-h400/AB%2BTop%2BHandrail.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="364" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.068px; text-align: center;">Top Handrail</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eWIzUgCYgc/YBeRHVEK3rI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/mzbVbBVzwvghnroMh4fU4AilH26KCjFmACPcBGAYYCw/s955/AB%2BSide%2BHandrails.jpg" style="color: #336699; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="955" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eWIzUgCYgc/YBeRHVEK3rI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/mzbVbBVzwvghnroMh4fU4AilH26KCjFmACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h320/AB%2BSide%2BHandrails.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.068px; text-align: center;">Side Handrails - Note different shape for long handrail if air-con fitted.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><h4 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="color: #222222;">Use of A-Line Handrail Stanchions</span></h4><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 1.4;">The suggested arrangement for the rear end handrail is based on the use of A-Line preformed steel handrail stanchions, an alter</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.4;">native, which is potentially easier than soldering, available from <a href="http://www.ppw-aline.com/detlloco.htm" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">A-Line (Division of Proto-Power West, USA)</a>. These are available from various online hobby shops and/or eBay. (Marbelup Models has limited stocks of these stanchions available at $15 per pack of 35 stanchions. Each loco requires 3 stanchions.)</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.4;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.4;">For this application, the A-line handrails do not require any trimming.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">The holes in the 3D-printed chassis should be carefully drilled out to accommodate the stanchions (suggested drill size: </span><span style="color: #222222;">0.75 mm</span><span style="color: #222222;"> </span><span style="color: #222222;"> - test on some scrap plastic first). </span></div></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222;">After preforming the end handrail as per the PDF template, test fit each handrail without stanchions. Once satisfied with the fit, remove each handrail and thread on the stanchions. </span><span style="color: #222222;">It is suggested to orient all stanchions the same way, e.g. with the open side of the top loop inwards. </span><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222;">Carefully insert each stanchion vertically into the drilled holes. It is probably best to insert the stanchions part way initially, then go along and press them down to the full depth, and also insert the ends of the handrails into the holes in the underframe. Make sure the bottom of each stanchion is level with the underside of the running boards.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Temporarily fit the loco body to the underframe in order to test fit the end handrails, the top ends of which locate into holes in the loco body. Only glue the bottom end of the front handrails, to allow for future removal of the body. It is suggested that the top end of the handrails should protrude approx. 1 mm into the body, to allow them to be sprung out slightly when the body is removed.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Horns</h3><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><div><br /></div>Four horns are included as part of the 3D-printed parts sprue. Carefully remove them from the sprue, leaving the spigots attached to the horns intact as much as possible. Only two are required, with two spares.</div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">(Alternate horns can be source from detail parts suppliers e.g. in brass, if greater robustness is desired.)</div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">Starter holes are provided for the horns on the roof of the cab. The holes are offset 1.6 mm either side of the loco centre line. For the front facing horn, the hole is 2.35 mm behind the centreline of the cab roof. For the rear facing horn, the hole is 3 mm in front of the centreline of the cab roof.</div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><div>Note that the slight asymmetry is correct as per WAGR drawing 16739.</div><div><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd2_sppZMnChhTDN9zWozKo40Zg-CCOHNmaYPCkKKqlMZIvADEc8BIAK6z1nS54Qmb2yhNPe0AAw1p037x0jeKaCwMY3-pcLp1J8OvOF113_kEuNoaqtZM_D79aJPmosFA9TTuSazb_qC8_xz0u7BGpBchk0PCVhf8H70sAB00KMucE9Sp_lVZhyM-/s996/A1501%20Horns.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="730" data-original-width="996" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd2_sppZMnChhTDN9zWozKo40Zg-CCOHNmaYPCkKKqlMZIvADEc8BIAK6z1nS54Qmb2yhNPe0AAw1p037x0jeKaCwMY3-pcLp1J8OvOF113_kEuNoaqtZM_D79aJPmosFA9TTuSazb_qC8_xz0u7BGpBchk0PCVhf8H70sAB00KMucE9Sp_lVZhyM-/s320/A1501%20Horns.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horn Locations on Cab Roof</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">Drill out the starter holes to suit the diameter of the spigot on the bottom of the horns (0.9 mm approx). Carefully trim the unwanted spigot (projecting from the back).</div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;"></div><h4 style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Headlights</h4><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">The holes provided in the body shell for headlights are nominally 1.8 mm diameter, but typically slightly undersize due to the 3D printing process. The headlights should be 2 mm in diameter, so drill the holes out to 2 mm taking care not damage the thin surround around the hole.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">(The holes are deliberately undersize because the thin surround would not print otherwise, as the minimum detail thickness is 0.5 mm. and the outside diameter of the surround is 2.8 mm.)</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">One method of lighting the headlights is to use a short length of optic fibre together with a 3 mm LED (Light Emitting Diode).</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">The A class locos had "sealed beam" headlights for which "sunny white" LEDs are a suitable approximation. (Many older locos had larger diameter headlights with replaceable bulbs which tended to have a more yellow appearance, similar to "golden yellow" LEDs.)</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">Note: Incandescent (filament) lamps are not recommended due to their high operating temperature which may damage the 3D print material.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">To attach the LED to the optic fibre, 3 mm black heatshink tubing is recommended. With the use of a hot air gun, the heatshrink tubing will shrink to form a snug fit over the optic fibre. However, the hot air may well be hot enough to melt the plastic optic fibre, so the trick is to shrink the tubing over the shank of a 2 mm drill bit, them slide the drill bit out and slide in the optic fibre.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">Typical steps are:</span></div></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"></span><br /><div><ol><span style="font-size: 15px;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Cut heatshrink tubing to length, e.g. 8-10 mm.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Hold 3 mm LED in a small vice by its legs, with the clear lens uppermost.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Push the cut length of heatshrink tubing over the clear lens of the LED.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Hold the shank of a 2 mm drill bit inside the heatshrink tubing while applying heat from a hot air gun.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">When it has cooled, withdraw the drill bit and insert the desired length of optic fibre. For the rear of the loco, you will probably have to feed the non-flared end of the optic fibre through the curved hole provided (from the outside) and attached the LED with attached heatshrink tubing on the inside.</li></span></ol></div><span style="font-size: 15px;"></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;"><span style="background-color: red; color: yellow;">CAUTION: Do not used the hot air gun or other heat source to shrink the heatshrink tubing in close proximity to the loco body or other 3D printed parts as they may distort due to the heat.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: normal;"><div style="font-size: 15px;">For the dual headlights, it is simplest to wire the two LED in series as this reduces the wiring and avoids the need for two separate resistors. A resistor of around 2K2 (2,200 ohms) is a suggested starting point for LEDs powered from DCC decoders.</div><div style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-size: 15px;"><div>Marker lights can also be drilled out and illuminated if desired.</div><div><br /></div><br /><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin: 0px; text-align: center;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2013/04/marbelup-models-home-page.html" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-8445406782837856992023-10-23T14:19:00.000+08:002023-10-23T14:19:29.798+08:00Latest News<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="font-size: 18.72px; font-weight: 700;"><br /></div>
<div style="font-size: 18.72px; font-weight: 700;"><span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">23-Oct-2023 - <span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-size: 18.72px;">Marbelup Models is taking a break and is not accepting any new orders.</span><br />24-Apr-2023 - Assembly Instructions Added for <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2022/09/a1501-series-locomotive-assembly-tips.html">WAGR/Westrail A1501 Series Locomotive</a></span></div><div style="font-size: 18.72px; font-weight: 700;">
<span style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;">15-Jan-2021 - <a href="https://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2021/01/wagrwestrail-ab-diesel-locomotive-kit.html" target="_blank">WAGR/Westrail AB Locomotive</a> added</span><br style="font-size: medium; font-weight: 400;" /></div>
22-Jan-2019 - Pricing information removed for all models.<br />
3-May-2016 - <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2016/05/marbelup-models-db-loco-kit-project.html" target="_blank">Westrail DB Loco Project</a> added. <br />
28-Mar-2016 - Links updated to the <a href="http://westralia.uk/wagons.htm">WA Wagon Pages</a> which have been relocated recently. Please let me know if you find any links which do not work.<br />
12-Feb-2016 - Most prices for 3D-printed items have gone up by approx. 10-15% due to a change in shipping charges from i.Materialise.<br />
01-Jan-2016 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2016/01/wagr-clerestory-roof-z-van.html">Clerestory Roof Z Vans</a><br />
21-Nov-2015 - WBC Brake Vans added to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-available-for-immediate.html" target="_blank">Models Available for Immediate Purchase</a>.<br />
17-Nov-2015 - <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/11/bhp-iron-ore-cars-ho-scale.html">Added BHP Iron Ore Cars</a> (4 types)<br />
15-Nov-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/11/ww-wheat-wagon-standard-gauge-ho-scale.html" target="_blank">WW (AGWY/AGSY) Wheat Wagon</a>.<br />
14-Oct-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/wbc-guards-van-construction-tips.html" target="_blank">instructions for WBC Guards Van</a>.<br />
1-Oct-2015 - Added WW Grain Hopper to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2015/09/whats-in-works.html" target="_blank">What's in The Works</a> page.<br />
15-Sep-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wagrwestrail-wbc-standard-gauge-guards.html" target="_blank">WAGR WBC Guards Van</a> in HO scale. New page added "<a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/whats-in-works.html" target="_blank">What's in The Works?</a>".<br />
4-Sep-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wshxm-ballast-wagon-instructions.html" target="_blank">Instructions for WAGR WSH/XM ballast hoppers</a> in Sn3½ and HO scale.<br />
29-Jul-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wshxm-ballast-hopper.html">WAGR WSH/XM ballast hoppers</a> in Sn3½ and HO scale. Updated the <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wf-wfw-wfdy-flat-wagon-standard-gauge.html" target="_blank">WAGR WF/WFW/WFDY</a> page to include photos of the painted models and add <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wfwfwwfdy-assembly-tips.html">Assembly Tips</a>. <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/customer-photo-gallery.html" target="_blank">Customer photo gallery</a> updated with another photo of Simon Chandler's Tasmanian wagons.<br />
9-Jul-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wf-wfw-wfdy-flat-wagon-standard-gauge.html" target="_blank">WAGR WF/WFW/WFDY</a> flat wagon in HO scale and iron ore containers. <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/customer-photo-gallery.html" target="_blank">Customer photo gallery</a> updated with Simon Chandler's Tasmanian wagons.<br />
24-Apr-2015 - Added <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/wob-iron-ore-wagon.html" target="_blank">WAGR WOB</a> iron ore wagon in HO scale.<br />
2-Feb-2015 - Set of parts for DA1576 Loco added to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-available-for-immediate.html" target="_blank">Models Available for Immediate Purchase</a>.<br />
29-Jan-2015 - Added Water Columns and more DC's to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-available-for-immediate.html" target="_blank">Models Available for Immediate Purchase</a>.<br />
16-Jan-2015 - Three Marbelup Models models - D and R loco, and NH Hopper Wagon - are featured in the <a href="http://australianmodelrailwaymagazine.blogspot.com.au/2015/01/february-2015-issue-of-amrm-becoming.html" target="_blank">February edition of Australian Model Railway Magazine</a>.<br />
16-Jan-2015 - Another CXB sheep wagon added to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-available-for-immediate.html" target="_blank">Models Available for Immediate Purchase</a>.<br />
22-Dec-2014 - CXB sheep wagon added to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-available-for-immediate.html" target="_blank">Models Available for Immediate Purchase</a>.<br />
20-Dec-2014 - Test Model of DA diesel assembled. Photos added to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dda-class-diesel.html" target="_blank">D/DA Page</a> and <a href="http://wasnmodeller.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dda-diesel-loco-3d-printed.html" target="_blank">Sn3.5 Blog</a>.<br />
<br />
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: center;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-40463476398811076382023-10-23T14:04:00.000+08:002023-10-23T14:04:34.445+08:00Marbelup Models - How to Order<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="background-color: white; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<div style="font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="color: red; font-size: 18.72px;">Marbelup Models is taking a break and is not accepting any new orders. Please do not make any deposit payments as future delivery cannot be guaranteed.</span></div><div style="font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">Marbelup Models doesn't keep a range of models in stock.</span></div><div style="font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">In general, the 3D-printed models are printed on demand. Typically, this take 3-4 weeks are most models are printed by i.Materialise in Belgium.</span></div><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">The first step, is to contact us by </span><a href="mailto:marbelupmodels@iinet.net.au" style="font-size: 18.72px;" target="_blank">email</a><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"> to enquire about the availability and price of any models which are of interest. Typically, we require a 25% deposit when placing an order.</span></div><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">Please only use email for all written communications regarding orders. While other messenging apps are available, they typically don't have sophisticated search facilities which makes it hard to keep track of who ordered what and when.</span></div><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 18.72px;"><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">Deposits are payable by PayPal (to .....) or Bank Transfer via PayID (to .....). </span></div><div><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">Please contact us if you wish to do a Bank Transfer using BSB and Account number. However, we strongly suggest using PayID instead as the transfer happens quickly and you get confirmation that the funds are going to correct person before you commit to send.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 18.72px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 18.72px;">Full payment of any outstanding balance is required prior to delivery. By prior arrangement, orders may be collected from Nedlands, WA, or we can post items to you. Typically, postage will be $15-20.</span></div>
<span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="color: #333333;"><!--In general, 3D printed models are available to order, as Marbelup Models does not hold stock of most models. The models are printed "on-demand" for each order. Just send an email with your requirements to marbelupmodels@iinet.net.au, and I can confirm pricing, postage, etc.<br />
<br />
Delivery time is 2-4 weeks from i.Materialise in Belgium. Orders for more than two of some complicated items will take longer as experience has indicated that i.Materialise take more care in production and packaging for small shipments, so larger orders may be split over several shipments.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;">A deposit is appreciated with your order. For WAGR/Westrail models in</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <span style="color: black;">Sn3½</span> or HO </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;">scale, a deposit of 25% is requested. For all other models, a deposit of 50% is requested. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;">If required, postage from Perth, Western Australia, to your location is an additional cost. The typical cost for packing and postage for 1-3 models within Australia is $10 (up to 500 grams). For larger orders, Marbelup Models can provide an estimate of postage on request.</span><br />
<div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;">
Payment can be made by direct bank transfer, PayPal or Qantas Cash. If sending funds by PayPal, please be aware that PayPal includes a fee which is typically AU$0.30 plus 2.6% if the funds are drawn from your credit card. If paying from your credit card, please add this fee to your payment (or ask us to send a PayPal invoice) to ensure that the correct amount is transferred. PayPal payments should be sent to marbelupmodels@iinet.net.au Contact us for further details for bank or Qantas Cash transfers.</div>
<div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;">
All prices, apart from those for models available for immediate purchase, are subject to exchange rate variations between the $Australian and Euro. </div>
</div>--></span>
<br />
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman";">
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="https://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2016/08/marbelup-models-home-page.html" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-55595705356316996442023-04-24T11:04:00.001+08:002023-04-24T11:06:05.619+08:00Marbelup Models Catalogue<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YGuceUxEMB4/VoYzZLVFFcI/AAAAAAAABr0/6hF8W2p3gag/s1600/ZTyp2%2BSide.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YGuceUxEMB4/VoYzZLVFFcI/AAAAAAAABr0/6hF8W2p3gag/s200/ZTyp2%2BSide.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<table border="0" bordercolor="#0033FF" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="3" style="width: 100%px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><h3>
Locomotives (Narrow Gauge - Sn3<span style="font-size: 18.72px;">½</span> Scale)</h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2022/09/a1501-series-locomotive-assembly-tips.html" target="">WAGR/Westrail A1501 Series Locomotive</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2022/09/a1501-series-locomotive-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions<br />(work in progress)</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2021/01/wagrwestrail-ab-diesel-locomotive-kit.html" target="">WAGR/Westrail AB Class Locomotive</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2021/01/ab-locomotive-assembly-instructions.html" target="">Instructions<br />(work in progress)</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
</tr><tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2016/07/marbelup-models-db-loco-kit-project.html" target="">Westrail DB Class Loco</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2017/06/db-loco-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions<br />(work in progress)</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dda-class-diesel.html" target="">WAGR/Westrail D/DA Class Loco</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dda-loco-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions<br />(work in progress)</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/marbelup-models-wagr-r-class-diesel.html" target="">WAGR R Class Loco</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/r-class-chassis-assembly-tips-and-tricks.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/ra-class-diesel.html" target="">WAGR RA Class Loco</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/ra-loco-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><h3>
4-Wheel Wagons (Narrow Gauge - Sn3<span style="font-size: 18.72px;">½</span> Scale)</h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/cxb-4-wheel-sheep-wagon.html" target="">WAGR CXB 4-wheel sheep wagon</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/10/cxb-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/dc-4-wheel-van.html" target="">WAGR DC 4-wheel Van</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2014/03/fd-4-wheel-louvre-van.html" target="">WAGR FD 4-wheel Louvre Van</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/03/fd-van-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><h3>
Bogie Wagons and Guard's Vans (Narrow Gauge - Sn3<span style="font-size: 18.72px;">½</span> Scale)</h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/06/qmc-car-wagon.html" target="">WAGR QMC Car Wagon</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2014/06/rb-open-wagon.html" target="">WAGR RB Open Wagon</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/rb-open-wagon-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/sxt-bogie-sheep-wagon.html" target="">WAGR SXT bogie sheep wagon</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/sxt-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2014/01/vd-bogie-louvre-van.html" target="">WAGR VD Bogie Louvre Van</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/vd-van-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/03/vdr-bogie-freezer-van.html" target="">WAGR VDR Bogie Freezer Van</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/vd-van-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/vg-bogie-covered-van.html" target="">WAGR VG Bogie Covered Van</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/10/vg-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/wagr-wmc-iron-ore-wagon.html" target="_blank">WAGR WMC Iron Ore Hopper</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/wmcwmd-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/wmd-hopper-wagon.html" target="">WAGR WMD Hopper Wagon</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/wmcwmd-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wshxm-ballast-hopper.html" target="">XM Ballast Hopper</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2015/09/wshxm-ballast-wagon-instructions.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="https://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2019/07/xwxwa-wheat-wagon-assembly-tips.html" target="">XW Wheat Hopper</a></td>
<td><a href="https://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2019/07/xwxwa-wheat-wagon-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/wagr-zba-guards-van.html" target="">WAGR ZBA Guard's Van</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/zba-guards-van-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2016/01/wagr-clerestory-roof-z-van.html" target="">WAGR Clerestory Roof Guard's Van</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/clerestory-roof-z-van-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/nh-enh-qa-ha-ahaf-hopper-wagons.html" target="">NH-ENH-QA-HA-AHAF Hopper Wagons</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/nh-enh-qa-ha-hopper-wagon-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><h3>
</h3>
</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2"><h3>
WAGR/Westrail Standard Gauge Wagons (HO Scale) - <span style="color: red;">HO WAGONS ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE</span></h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2016/08/aqny-akzy-assembly-tips.html" target="">AQNY Container Wagon & AZKY (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2016/08/aqny-akzy-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wagrwestrail-wbc-standard-gauge-guards.html" target="">WBC Guards Van (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/wbc-guards-van-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wf-wfw-wfdy-flat-wagon-standard-gauge.html" target="">WF/WFW/WFDY Flat Wagon (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wfwfwwfdy-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/wob-iron-ore-wagon.html" target="">WOB Iron Ore Wagon (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/wob-iron-ore-wagon-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wshxm-ballast-hopper.html" target="">WSH Ballast Hopper (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2015/09/wshxm-ballast-wagon-instructions.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/11/ww-wheat-wagon-standard-gauge-ho-scale.html" target="">WW AGWY AGSY Wheat Hopper (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/11/ww-assembly-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/11/bhp-iron-ore-cars-ho-scale.html" target="">BHP Iron Ore cars (HO Scale)</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><h3>
Accessories</h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/sheep-load-for-cxb-and-sxt.html">Sheep Loads for CXB/SXT</a></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/wagr-water-columns.html">WAGR Water Columns</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/wagr-water-columns.html">Instructions</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/wagr-relay-cabin.html" target="">WAGR Relay Cabin</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/wmcwmd-construction-tips.html" target="">Bogies for WMC/WMD</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/wmcwmd-construction-tips.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wshxm-ballast-hopper.html" target="">Bogies for XM Ballast Hopper</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/bettendorf-bogies-and-bolsters.html">Bettendorf Bogies and NG Bolsters</a></td>
<td><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/bettendorf-bogies-and-bolsters.html" target="">Instructions</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/dc-4-wheel-van.html">Roofwalks for DC Vans</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>• <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wf-wfw-wfdy-flat-wagon-standard-gauge.html" target="">Iron Ore Containers (HO and S Scale)</a></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-15312515904581164242021-07-01T16:50:00.008+08:002022-09-17T12:08:58.176+08:00AB Locomotive Assembly Instructions<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fznZ6ZnoGLY/X_qvLzxg6KI/AAAAAAAAEfQ/0rIFbHCEXG4X_k4_LJqbmeBBF1yuFWLkwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1794/AB%2BLoco.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="731" data-original-width="1794" height="163" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fznZ6ZnoGLY/X_qvLzxg6KI/AAAAAAAAEfQ/0rIFbHCEXG4X_k4_LJqbmeBBF1yuFWLkwCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h163/AB%2BLoco.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 18px;">AB Loco Assembly Tips - Draft: More Details to be Added.</span></p><div class="post-header" style="background-color: white; color: #999999; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5px; line-height: 1.6; margin: 0px 0px 1.5em;"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-3252976774345903139" itemprop="description articleBody" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 578px;"><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">These instructions are preliminary and further information will be added as time permits. Please do not hesitate to contact Marbelup Models if you find any missing information as this will prompt updates to this page. </span></div><div style="background-color: white;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><h2 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">Parts List </span></h2><div style="background-color: white;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">3D-Printed Parts</span></h3><div style="background-color: white;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">Underframe</span></li><li><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px;">Fuel Tank</span></li><li>Body - cab and short hood</li><li>Body - long hood</li><li>Parts sprue containing motor mounts, drive shafts, and coupler shims.</li><li>Bogie Sideframes.</li></ul></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-8956757863038779573" itemprop="description articleBody" style="font-size: 16.335px; line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 578px;"><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><h3 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: left;">Mechanical Parts</h3><div style="background-color: white; font-size: 14.85px;"><ul style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 1.4; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="border: none; color: #333333; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"># North Yard (NZ) drive bogies for WAGR A Class with 2 mm diameter worm shafts.</li><li style="border: none; color: #333333; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Motor - Auscision part no. SP-1. Includes twin brass flywheels.</span></li><li style="border: none; color: #333333; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Drive cups to suit 2 mm diameter shaft. (2 required). Four drive cups are included in North West Short Line (NWSL) U-Joint set 489-6.</span></li><li style="border: none; color: #333333; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Brass Strip 6 x 1 mm, 2 required. ( K&S part 9843 contains 3 strips.)</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;">Fixing screws for body, couplers and fuel tank:<br /></span><span style="color: #333333;"># 2-56 x 11 mm, 10 required for body fixing screws and couplers</span><br /><span style="color: #333333;"># 2-56 x 12 mm, 2 required for fuel tank.<br /></span><a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page256.htm" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 14.85px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Kadee #256</a><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"> nylon screws can be used for the fuel tank, couplers and end body fixing screws.</span></li><li style="border: none; color: #333333; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Fixing screws for motor mounts - self tappers, 1.5 mm dia. x 6 mm long (4 required). </span></li></ul><div><span style="color: #333333;">For items above marked with #, Marbelup Models has a limited quantity available for sale. </span></div></div><h3 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: left;">Miscellaneous Parts</h3><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><ul style="line-height: 1.4; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"># Air hoses - e.g. Detail Associates </span><a href="https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/229-6206" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 14.85px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">#6206</a><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"> - 12 required. (Vacuum brake hoses are included.)</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"># Handrail Knobs (4) for uncoupling levers - e.g. Markits 1.5 mm (short) - available from Railwest Models.</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"># Handrail Stanchions (30) (optional) - <a href="http://ppw-aline.com/collections/handrail-stanchions" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">A-Line D1070 or D1071</a>. .</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Brass wire for handrails, etc. (0.4 mm - 1 x 300 mm length, 0.6 mm - 3 x 300 mm lengths)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Kadee couplers #146 for scale coupler height, #149 for HO coupler height (see below)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Kadee draft gear boxes #242 (supplied as standard with Whisker couplers)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Scrap styrene sheet, 0.25 mm thick (preferably black) for reducing coupler "droop".</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">DCC decoder and speaker (both optional)</span></li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs), optional, for headlights 4 x 3 mm (sunny white) and optic fibre (2 mm)</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">LEDs (red and white) and optic fibre, if operating marker lights desired</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">lead or other weighting material</li><li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Paint and decals, as desired.</span></li></ul><div><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">For items above marked with #, Marbelup Models has a limited quantity available for sale. Other items will need to be purchased from local hobby shops or online sources.</span></div></div><br /><h2 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase;">UNDERFRAME PREPARATION</h2><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333;"><div style="background-color: white;">Remove the support structure from the 3D-printed underframe. </div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white;">Take particular care around areas with delicate detail, including the vacuum hoses and the areas highlighted in the following images.</div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white;">Remove and save the four horns printed at the front of the central motor cutout, l<span face="arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif" style="font-size: 15px;">eaving the spigots attached to the horns intact as much as possible. Only two are required, with two spares.</span></div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDtTClHxHig/X_kfSbK5yVI/AAAAAAAAEdg/T3PrydFneZ03jCa9qxhIGPma5n7rxdxZACPcBGAYYCw/s1851/AB%2BUF%2BFrontRight.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="1851" height="126" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDtTClHxHig/X_kfSbK5yVI/AAAAAAAAEdg/T3PrydFneZ03jCa9qxhIGPma5n7rxdxZACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h126/AB%2BUF%2BFrontRight.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Details - Right Side, Front</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iHUf1iiE8I/X_kfTC06vAI/AAAAAAAAEd0/86k1PUaUYO8-PPycvezSyumg0qDqPOE9QCPcBGAYYCw/s1817/AB%2BUF%2BRearRight.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="1817" height="129" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iHUf1iiE8I/X_kfTC06vAI/AAAAAAAAEd0/86k1PUaUYO8-PPycvezSyumg0qDqPOE9QCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h129/AB%2BUF%2BRearRight.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Details, Right Side, Rear</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p0frvbns-QU/X_kfSTFBCNI/AAAAAAAAEds/vGQqCbrkIXMMpQCMHX7A1gnygRhtk4YjgCPcBGAYYCw/s1853/AB%2BUF%2BFrontLeft.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="1853" height="122" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p0frvbns-QU/X_kfSTFBCNI/AAAAAAAAEds/vGQqCbrkIXMMpQCMHX7A1gnygRhtk4YjgCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h122/AB%2BUF%2BFrontLeft.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Details, Left Side, Front</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L78mb1nM_AE/X_kfSc-j27I/AAAAAAAAEdY/pHN6n12U6BoUUfatyWCth64g49nUtZkaACNcBGAsYHQ/s1837/AB%2BUF%2BRearLeft.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="1837" height="125" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L78mb1nM_AE/X_kfSc-j27I/AAAAAAAAEdY/pHN6n12U6BoUUfatyWCth64g49nUtZkaACNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h125/AB%2BUF%2BRearLeft.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Details - Left Side, Rear</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Clean out the indicated holes with a 1.8 mm drill bit and tap with 2-56 thread. </span></div><div style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></span></div><div style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Note: Don't use an 8BA tap. Although the thread size is similar to 2-56, the supplied 2-56 screws will be very tight in the tapped holes and will damage the threads.</span></div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hAXRDRj7HQ8/X_kiVra6nmI/AAAAAAAAEd8/BVTLLNgYFZUY1UFDjkUGnjlf2_Xn3qyCwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1852/AB%2BUF%2B2-56%2BHoles.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="363" data-original-width="1852" height="79" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hAXRDRj7HQ8/X_kiVra6nmI/AAAAAAAAEd8/BVTLLNgYFZUY1UFDjkUGnjlf2_Xn3qyCwCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h79/AB%2BUF%2B2-56%2BHoles.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Holes to be Tapped 2-56 (viewed from below)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="background-color: white;"><div><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Clean out the indicated holes with a 1.2 mm drill bit for later fitment of the motor mounts. </span></div><div><br style="font-size: 16.335px;" /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WzNybVHWUFQ/X_kjtY5kaII/AAAAAAAAEeI/zJvlT0aNqIYO3v8KeR09CpWT2uMMXj57QCNcBGAsYHQ/s1850/AB%2BUF%2B1.2%2Bmm%2Bholes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="382" data-original-width="1850" height="83" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WzNybVHWUFQ/X_kjtY5kaII/AAAAAAAAEeI/zJvlT0aNqIYO3v8KeR09CpWT2uMMXj57QCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h83/AB%2BUF%2B1.2%2Bmm%2Bholes.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underframe Holes to be Drilled 1.2 mm (viewed from above)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><h3 style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Brass Reinforcing Strips </h3><div style="background-color: white;">The underframe is reinforced by two brass strips, which must be cut to length and notched, as the diagram below, to fit snugly behind the end steps. </div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Note that the dimensions in the diagram are a guide. You may have to trim the ends and/or notches slightly in order for the brass strips to fit so don't force them if they seem too tight. Make sure you remove any rough edges from the brass.</span></div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sUWQrd3Te1w/X_lP1tcHXeI/AAAAAAAAEes/2UU_aJHQavAcBO1dRHEHlV6L5zqWoFFDACNcBGAsYHQ/s1826/AB%2BUF%2BBrass%2BStrip.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="258" data-original-width="1826" height="56" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sUWQrd3Te1w/X_lP1tcHXeI/AAAAAAAAEes/2UU_aJHQavAcBO1dRHEHlV6L5zqWoFFDACNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h56/AB%2BUF%2BBrass%2BStrip.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dimensions for Brass Strips (2 required)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oEb1LS4od6M/X_lQxRICGdI/AAAAAAAAEe0/oNyOKGQ4e_AEM7ETIkeMuhk7UY2MDAvowCNcBGAsYHQ/s1647/AB%2BUF%2BBrass%2BPlacement.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="1647" height="156" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oEb1LS4od6M/X_lQxRICGdI/AAAAAAAAEe0/oNyOKGQ4e_AEM7ETIkeMuhk7UY2MDAvowCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h156/AB%2BUF%2BBrass%2BPlacement.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brass Strip Placement</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="background-color: #fcff01;">With some prior planning, the brass strips can also serve as electrical busbars to carry power from the bogie pickups to the motor or via a DCC decoder. Contact Marbelup Models if you are interested in more details on this option. Note that it will require wires to be soldered to the brass strips and this must be done prior to gluing the strips in position.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><span style="background-color: white;">Secure the brass strips, e.g. with superglue.</span><br /><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white;"><br /></div></div><h3 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;"></h3><h3 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Bogies and Drive Train</h3><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Remove and discard the brass cross-bearers from the North Yard drive bogies.</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Fit a drive cup to the worm shaft on each bogie, so that the end of the shaft is flush with the inside of the drive cup.</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px;">3D printed bogie side frames are included, based on a design by </span><a href="http://butlersswampmodels.blogspot.com/2014/12/newly-released-class-bogies-for.html" style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px;" target="_blank">Butlers Swamp Models</a><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px;">, with a couple of cosmetic improvements by Marbelup Models. Install the bogie sideframes from the top of the North Yard bogies, and secure with the 2 mm screws provided. Don't overtighten the screws, as this could distort or split the ends of the bogie sideframes.</span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><div dir="ltr" style="font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-size: 16.335px;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">Install the bogies using the shouldered brass screws and springs provided, with the spring on top of the 3D printed underframe. As an option, one spring can be omitted which will allow one bogie to rock more easily to accommodate any track irregularities.</span></div></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Note that it will be necessary to temporarily remove two of the tiny black screws securing the inner bearing for the worm shaft, to allow the worm shaft assembly to pivot upwards during the installation of the bogies. When replacing them, do not overtighten. The worm drive will run smoother if these are backed off approx. 1/2 turn from tight.</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Marbelup Models has limited stock of spare screws M1.4 x 3 mm long, in case any go missing.</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Fit the two 3D-printed motor mount brackets using four 1.5 x 6 mm self tapping screws.</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Fit the two 3D-printed drive shafts into the drive cups in both the motor and bogie worm shafts, and gently guide the motor into the mounting brackets. Insert the motor slightly angled to the vertical at first, to allow the lower solder terminal to fit around the mounting bracket, then rotate the motor to the vertical position as it move into its proper position.</div><div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NI577kYspCE/X_qmpR7C01I/AAAAAAAAEfE/ZM7FEJmHGa8OPstPwHgYAYJfydkWu5YxQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1849/AB%2BUF%2BMech%2BAssy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="769" data-original-width="1849" height="166" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NI577kYspCE/X_qmpR7C01I/AAAAAAAAEfE/ZM7FEJmHGa8OPstPwHgYAYJfydkWu5YxQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h166/AB%2BUF%2BMech%2BAssy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mechanism Assembly</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">When assembled on its bogies, the top surface of the "footplate" should be 25.5 mm above rail level.</span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></span></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Power Pickups and Motor Wiring</span></h4><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The North Yard bogies incorporate "split frame" power pickups which means that each of the black metal side frames is electrically connected to the wheels via the bronze bearing blocks. Although the axles are metal, each axle is electrically insulated inside the central gear to avoid a short circuit across the rails. </span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The gear towers include small fork-shaped tabs secured to each side plate by means of small (M1.4) screws. Internal wiring should be soldered to each of the small "forks" which can then be detached from the bogies to allow removal of the bogies without desoldering. </span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">The Auscision motor is not specifically marked as to + and -, but it seems that the motor terminal which has a small, round hole adjacent to it is the + terminal.</span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 16.335px;">For DC operation, the + terminal of the motor should be wired to the bogie sideplate on the right side as determined when the loco is moving forwards and the - terminal to the left sideplate. </span><span style="font-size: 16.335px;">This will ensure the loco's direction is consistent with other DC locos,</span></span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">For DCC operation, the + terminal of the motor should be wired to the orange wire and the - terminal to the grey wire. Refer to the instructions which accompanied your DCC decoder for full details of DCC wiring.</span></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #333333;" trbidi="on"><div><h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">Couplers</span></h3></div></div><div dir="ltr" style="background-color: white;" trbidi="on"><div style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">The coupler height of the AB loco has been set at the correct scale height for WAGR/Westrail narrow gauge rollingstock, i.e. 12.0 mm (above rail height) rather than the HO coupler height (9.9 mm) which is commonly used for most Sn3½ models. This has been done because the correct height "looks better" for modern locos and rollingstock. For correct scale coupler height, use Kadee #146 couplers. </span></span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Provision has been made in the underframe design to lower the couplers to match the HO coupler height by using Kadee #149 couplers which have an "overset" shank together with a spacer approx. 0.8 mm thick between the coupler box and mounting pad. </span></span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><div style="font-size: 16.335px;">If intending to fit couplers at HO height, file out 0.8 mm from the bottom of the coupler mounting holes, as per diagram below. The headstock is only 0.5 mm thick in this region.</div><div style="font-size: 16.335px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CX7uCLt6bXQ/X_kkxhHiqhI/AAAAAAAAEeU/BVlUyb5-Cxgpw6MDQVGJF1eab0UUtELVQCNcBGAsYHQ/s843/AB%2BUF%2BCoupler%2BMount.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="843" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CX7uCLt6bXQ/X_kkxhHiqhI/AAAAAAAAEeU/BVlUyb5-Cxgpw6MDQVGJF1eab0UUtELVQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h378/AB%2BUF%2BCoupler%2BMount.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headstock Modification for HO Coupler Height<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 16.335px;"><span style="font-size: 14.85px;">The #146 and #149 couplers are both "long shank" style which avoids the problem of the "glad hand" on opposing couplers from fouling the cowcatcher. </span></span><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">The suggested draft gear boxes are Kadee </span><a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page262.htm" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">#242</a><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;"> (supplied as standard with Whisker couplers). Kadee suggest assembling the coupler so that the main part of the draft gear box is on the bottom and the lid is on top. </span><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">The draft gear boxes simply snap together. </span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;">When assembled, the #242 draft gear box does have some excess vertical clearance for the coupler shank which allows for some undesirable "droop", which is more pronounced with the long shank couplers. The droop can be largely eliminated by gluing a strip of 0.25 mm styrene, say 2 mm wide (preferably black), across the front opening of the draft gear box. Prior to gluing, smooth off any rough edges from the styrene and use a minimum amount of liquid styrene cement. When the glue has dried, test fit the couplers in the draft gear boxes. If there is any restriction in side-to-side movement, lightly file the styrene strip to increase the clearance as needed.</span></div><div style="color: #333333;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14.85px;"><br /></span></div><div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="color: #222222;">DCC and Sound</span></h3><div><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><span style="color: #222222;">Various sound decoders can be used provided they feature the EMD 645 Non-Turbo Prime Mover sounds. </span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The AB fuel tank is specially designed to accept an Auscision SP-58 speaker. These are available from </span></span><span style="color: #222222;">Auscision or their <a href="http://www.auscisionmodels.com.au/Speakers.htm" target="_blank">Australian Modeller Shop</a> as a spare part. The mounting tabs on the speaker should be tapped 2-56 and countersunk screws, e.g. 2-56 x 8 mm, inserted from the underside of the fuel tank.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"> </span></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Provision has been made for automatically connecting the speaker wires when the fuel tank is installed. If you wish to pursue this option, contact Marbelup Models for further information on the parts required.</span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ll6z79D3crM/X_koA2gE6fI/AAAAAAAAEeg/eM2f-oHzM7ElbFnQhvqbE4NfyKdnLYmkQCNcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="277" data-original-width="511" height="216" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ll6z79D3crM/X_koA2gE6fI/AAAAAAAAEeg/eM2f-oHzM7ElbFnQhvqbE4NfyKdnLYmkQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h216/image.png" width="400" /></a></div></span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 21px;"><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span><br /><h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Body Preparation and Details</span></span></h3><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Depending on the supplier of the 3D printed parts, the loco body may consist of either 2 pieces (white resin) or 3 pieces (clear resin).</span></span></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Assembly of 3-Piece Body</span></span></h4><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J0GsRi2zEX4/YJIUkPaGFiI/AAAAAAAAEoA/c1DolQgMZ90NWI844bOwZ76QvzX6QicTwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1610/AB%2B3%2BPiece%2BBody.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="1610" height="91" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J0GsRi2zEX4/YJIUkPaGFiI/AAAAAAAAEoA/c1DolQgMZ90NWI844bOwZ76QvzX6QicTwCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h91/AB%2B3%2BPiece%2BBody.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3-Piece Body (Clear Resin)</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The cab and short hood are printed as one piece, together with an attached part which is the end of the long hood. The end piece is printed sideways, in order to minimise stepping on the curved and angled surfaces from the 3D printing process.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The first step is to separate the end piece from the cab, by cutting the 4 round joining bars, e.g. with fine sidecutters. Trim the remains of the joining bars but they don't have to be perfectly flush.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Both ends of the long hood have projecting pins which locate in holes in the end walls of the cab and the inside of the end piece. The pins are nominally 1.8 mm in diameter, so use a 1.8 mm drill bit to gently clean out the mating holes. Avoid using a larger drill or the fit will be too sloppy.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Test fit the parts before gluing, making sure they fit together snugly with no gaps. Place the cab and long hood on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass, to ensure the bottom edge is straight. Once satisfied with the fit, secure the joins with superglue which can be applied from the inside to avoid glue traces on the outside surfaces.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Assembly of 2-Piece Body</span></h4><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-CvQYtTS9Q/YJIY1QgdEjI/AAAAAAAAEoI/5q786U4zqNMBXDXvg8OomKYwcAaYCEe9gCNcBGAsYHQ/s1718/AB%2B2%2BPiece%2BBody.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="1718" height="93" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-CvQYtTS9Q/YJIY1QgdEjI/AAAAAAAAEoI/5q786U4zqNMBXDXvg8OomKYwcAaYCEe9gCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h93/AB%2B2%2BPiece%2BBody.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2-Piece Body (White Resin)</td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">With the 2-piece body, there is a single join behind the cab with interlocking tabs. <br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="color: #333333;">Test fit the parts before gluing, making sure they fit together snugly with no gaps. Place the 2 sections on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass, to ensure the bottom edge is straight. Once satisfied with the fit, secure the join with superglue which can be applied from the inside to avoid glue traces on the outside surfaces.</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="color: #333333;">Body Clean up and Preparation</span></span></span></h4><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Take care when removing the support structure from the body, especially around the cab windows to avoid damaging the vertical dividers between the windows. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Once the body has been "cleaned up", it is also necessary to remove the two temporary braces which link the fixing posts near the centre of the body, as highlighted in yellow below. These have been included to protect the body during production and shipping, and must be cut away to provide clearance for the motor, etc. These can be cut with a fine-toothed razor saw or a cutting disk in a rotary tool, at low speed. The 2-piece body has an additional brace near the body join, which should also be removed.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYofBJRMhm4/VNrqAw3JpWI/AAAAAAAABLw/JqHHBEcHlgE/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BBraces.jpg" style="color: #6699cc; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYofBJRMhm4/VNrqAw3JpWI/AAAAAAAABLw/JqHHBEcHlgE/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BBraces.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The eight fixing holes in the body shell and nose should be tapped with a 2-56 thread (not 8-BA!). If necessary, clean out the holes prior to tapping using a 1.8 mm drill bit. </span></span><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">When assembling the body to the underframe, don't overtighten the screws as this can cause warping of the underframe.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><h3 style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;">Handrails</h3><div><br /></div><div>Refer to the following diagram and screenshots for handrail details. If you print the diagram, ensure you print at 100% size for accurate dimensions. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sytre-5nr6ZJWD1Hx75AWugzktgOD4AV/view?usp=sharing" style="font-size: 16.335px;">Handrail Diagram (PDF)</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div><div style="line-height: 21px;"><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCDbmi_mcR0/YBeP-HPTZ5I/AAAAAAAAEg0/jh_ql22U-AEPRD0ug50gsEjBSuR0aFZbQCNcBGAsYHQ/s775/AB%2BFront%2BHandrails.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="569" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCDbmi_mcR0/YBeP-HPTZ5I/AAAAAAAAEg0/jh_ql22U-AEPRD0ug50gsEjBSuR0aFZbQCNcBGAsYHQ/w294-h400/AB%2BFront%2BHandrails.jpg" width="294" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Handrails</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SdN7w5ulWCE/YBeP-ID66sI/AAAAAAAAEgs/o1cMWrX1GqsY8kzwiVSes9AssxtcfXEhwCNcBGAsYHQ/s863/AB%2BRear%2BHandrails.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="863" data-original-width="642" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SdN7w5ulWCE/YBeP-ID66sI/AAAAAAAAEgs/o1cMWrX1GqsY8kzwiVSes9AssxtcfXEhwCNcBGAsYHQ/w298-h400/AB%2BRear%2BHandrails.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Handrails</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up8Bmaa_ALo/YBeP-guuKKI/AAAAAAAAEg4/yGxJSXAaJy4V7oo0P1wiTO9x6zuLz09MgCNcBGAsYHQ/s575/AB%2BTop%2BHandrail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="522" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up8Bmaa_ALo/YBeP-guuKKI/AAAAAAAAEg4/yGxJSXAaJy4V7oo0P1wiTO9x6zuLz09MgCNcBGAsYHQ/w364-h400/AB%2BTop%2BHandrail.jpg" width="364" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top Handrail</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eWIzUgCYgc/YBeRHVEK3rI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/mzbVbBVzwvghnroMh4fU4AilH26KCjFmACPcBGAYYCw/s955/AB%2BSide%2BHandrails.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="955" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eWIzUgCYgc/YBeRHVEK3rI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/mzbVbBVzwvghnroMh4fU4AilH26KCjFmACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h320/AB%2BSide%2BHandrails.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side Handrails - Note different shape for long handrail if air-con fitted.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><h4 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;"><span style="color: #222222;">Use of A-Line Handrail Stanchions</span></h4><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 1.4;">The above screenshots are based on the use of A-Line preformed steel handrail stanchions, an alter</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.4;">native, which is potentially easier than soldering, available from <a href="http://www.ppw-aline.com/detlloco.htm" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">A-Line (Division of Proto-Power West, USA)</a>. These are available from various online hobby shops and/or eBay. (Marbelup Models has limited stocks of these stanchions available at $15 per pack of 35 stanchions. Each loco requires 30 stanchions.)</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 4px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6-bzGummX4/VGHZFd04gxI/AAAAAAAABAg/JG96M4TPPPE/s1600/ALine%2BStanchions.png" style="color: #6699cc; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="104" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6-bzGummX4/VGHZFd04gxI/AAAAAAAABAg/JG96M4TPPPE/s1600/ALine%2BStanchions.png" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">A-Line Handrail Stanchions</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="color: #333333;"><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Although these stanchions are intended for HO locos, the two longest sizes are sufficiently long to be trimmed to the correct length for the AB . The A-line part numbers are D1070 (extra long) and D1071 (long) - either will do. The stanchions should be trimmed at the bottom. After trimming, file off any rough edges from the cut end. </span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">Note that the length should be measured from the top of the "loop". When installed, the bottom of each stanchion should be flush with the bottom of the running boards.</span></div></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">If using A-line stanchions throughout, four different lengths/shapes are required, as designated A, B, C and D on the PDF diagram. Type A and B can be simply cut to length, whereas C and D both require a 90-degree bend as well. Brass wire can be used in place of Types B and D but soldering is required.</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">The holes in the 3D-printed chassis should be carefully drilled out to accommodate the stanchions (suggested drill size: </span><span style="color: #222222;">0.75 mm</span><span style="color: #222222;"> </span><span style="color: #222222;"> - test on some scrap plastic first). </span><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222;">After preforming the long handrails as per the PDF template, test fit each handrail without stanchions. Once satisfied with the fit, remove each handrail and thread on the stanchions. </span><span style="color: #222222;">It is suggested to orient all stanchions the same way, e.g. with the open side of the top loop inwards. </span><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222;">Carefully insert each stanchion vertically into the drilled holes. It is probably best to insert the stanchions part way initially, then go along and press them down to the full depth, and also insert the ends of the handrails into the holes in the underframe. Make sure the bottom of each stanchion is level with the underside of the running boards.</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Once all the stanchions are in place and the long handrails threaded through, check that all the stanchions are vertical and make any necessary adjustments. Then, the stanchions can be glued into the holes in the running boards and the handrails glued into the holes in the underframe. It is optional whether to glue the handrails where they pass through the loops in the stanchions.</span><br /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Separately form the U-shaped handrails on the side, and the end handrails from 0.6 mm wire, as per the template. Install and glue the U-shaped handrails into the underframe.</span><br /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Temporarily fit the loco body to the underframe in order to test fit the end handrails, the top ends of which locate into holes in the loco body. Only glue the bottom end of the front handrails, to allow for future removal of the body. It is suggested that the top end of the handrails should protrude approx. 1 mm into the body, to allow them to be sprung out slightly when the body is removed.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><h3 style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #222222;">Uncoupling Levers</span></h3><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">Uncoupling levers can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire and secured to the headstocks using turned brass handrail knobs, e.g. Markits "short" variety.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">Refer the PDF Handrail Diagram for the required shape for bending.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;">Note that the double-sided uncoupling levers, as shown below, were a relatively late addition to the AB. They were delivered with chopper couplers, so no uncoupling levers were fitted. When fitted with automatic (knuckle) couplers, the uncoupling levers were only on the left, when viewed from each end of the loco. Also, on some locos, the shape of the left uncoupling lever was different from the right one, which was fitted later. Consult photos for the particular loco and era modelled.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8orSAHJ3gvI/YBeTj4n341I/AAAAAAAAEhc/QC0LOnOsR6IYL87A319BotEGwJQjT0Y9gCNcBGAsYHQ/s1067/AB%2BUncoupling%2BLevers.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="807" data-original-width="1067" height="303" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8orSAHJ3gvI/YBeTj4n341I/AAAAAAAAEhc/QC0LOnOsR6IYL87A319BotEGwJQjT0Y9gCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h303/AB%2BUncoupling%2BLevers.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uncoupling Levers</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><h4 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;">Horns</h4><div><br /></div>Four horns are included as part of the 3D-printed underframe. Carefully remove them from the underframe, leaving the spigots attached to the horns intact as much as possible. Only two are required, with two spares.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">(Alternate horns can be source from detail parts suppliers e.g. in brass, if greater robustness is desired.)</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">Starter holes are provided for the horns on the front wall of the cab (right side) and on the left side of the long hood, just behind the vestibule door. Consult photos appropriate to the era being modelled to determine correct horn placement.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">Drill out the starter holes to suit the diameter of the spigot on the back end of the horns. Carefully trim the unwanted spigot (projecting sideways or lengthways) from the horns.</div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;"></div><h4 style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">Headlights</h4><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">The holes provided in the body shell for headlights are nominally 1.8 mm diameter, but typically slightly undersize due to the 3D printing process. The headlights should be 2 mm in diameter, so drill the holes out to 2 mm taking care not damage the thin surround around the hole.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">(The holes are deliberately undersize because the thin surround would not print otherwise, as the minimum detail thickness is 0.5 mm. and the outside diameter of the surround is 2.8 mm.)</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">One method of lighting the headlights is to use a short length of optic fibre together with a 3 mm LED (Light Emitting Diode).</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">The AB locos had "sealed beam" headlights for which "sunny white" LEDs are a suitable approximation. (Many older locos had larger diameter headlights with replaceable bulbs which tended to have a more yellow appearance, similar to "golden yellow" LEDs.)</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">Note: Incandescent (filament) lamps are not recommended due to their high operating temperature which may damage the 3D print material.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">To attach the LED to the optic fibre, 3 mm black heatshink tubing is recommended. With the use of a hot air gun, the heatshrink tubing will shrink to form a snug fit over the optic fibre. However, the hot air may well be hot enough to melt the plastic optic fibre, so the trick is to shrink the tubing over the shank of a 2 mm drill bit, them slide the drill bit out and slide in the optic fibre.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: 15px;">Typical steps are:</span></div></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"></span><br /><div><ol><span style="font-size: 15px;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Cut heatshrink tubing to length, e.g. 8-10 mm.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Hold 3 mm LED in a small vice by its legs, with the clear lens uppermost.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Push the cut length of heatshrink tubing over the clear lens of the LED.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Hold the shank of a 2 mm drill bit inside the heatshrink tubing while applying heat from a hot air gun.</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">When it has cooled, withdraw the drill bit and insert the desired length of optic fibre. For the rear of the loco, you will probably have to feed the non-flared end of the optic fibre through the curved hole provided (from the outside) and attached the LED with attached heatshrink tubing on the inside.</li></span></ol></div><span style="font-size: 15px;"></span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;"><span style="background-color: red; color: yellow;">CAUTION: Do not used the hot air gun or other heat source to shrink the heatshrink tubing in close proximity to the loco body or other 3D printed parts as they may distort due to the heat.</span></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;"><br /></div><div style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: normal;"><div style="font-size: 15px;">For the dual headlights, it is simplest to wire the two LED in series as this reduces the wiring and avoids the need for two separate resistors. A resistor of around 2K2 (2,200 ohms) is a suggested starting point for LEDs powered from DCC decoders.</div><div style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></div><div style="font-size: 15px;"><div>Marker lights can also be drilled out and illuminated if desired.</div><div><br /></div><br /><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; margin: 0px; text-align: center;"><span face="arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2013/04/marbelup-models-home-page.html" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eWIzUgCYgc/YBeRHVEK3rI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/_TTe96Ntjaw_Mi0ft8ICtVQUQc7Zys_HQCNcBGAsYHQ/s955/AB%2BSide%2BHandrails.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="955" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eWIzUgCYgc/YBeRHVEK3rI/AAAAAAAAEhQ/_TTe96Ntjaw_Mi0ft8ICtVQUQc7Zys_HQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/AB%2BSide%2BHandrails.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-86533481819618772062021-01-15T14:33:00.007+08:002023-10-23T14:25:33.144+08:00WAGR/Westrail AB Diesel Locomotive Kit<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vAUKi8yiLd4/YAE1JriNR6I/AAAAAAAAEfg/ot8aGJ-t1egzBB1OC_MeQ1vyyk8TaXCgQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0860%2BCropped.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vAUKi8yiLd4/YAE1JriNR6I/AAAAAAAAEfg/ot8aGJ-t1egzBB1OC_MeQ1vyyk8TaXCgQCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/IMG_0860%2BCropped.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Prototype Photo by G Stallard</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Marbelup Models announces the development of a 3D-printed "kit" of the Westrail AB diesel in Sn3½ scale.</p><p>Introduced in 1969, the AB class were a development or the A and AA class locos, being slightly longer overall and featuring an EMD 645E prime mover. The six AB locomotives originally carried numbers 1531-1536 (later 1501-1504). The AB’s were delivered in the WAGR green/red/yellow livery and were repainted in the orange and blue Westrail livery and later ARG liveries.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fznZ6ZnoGLY/X_qvLzxg6KI/AAAAAAAAEfU/ds7KDj_gdSMg1Bkl4AHJ6ekpGklsFzX7gCPcBGAYYCw/s1794/AB%2BLoco.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="731" data-original-width="1794" height="163" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fznZ6ZnoGLY/X_qvLzxg6KI/AAAAAAAAEfU/ds7KDj_gdSMg1Bkl4AHJ6ekpGklsFzX7gCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h163/AB%2BLoco.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Basically, the "kit" will consist of 3D-printed parts for loco body, underframe, fuel tank and bogie sideframes, The general construction will be similar to the Marbelup Models D and DA, and DB locos, previously produced in Sn3½ scale.</p><p>The expected "kit" cost will be as follows:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>3D-printed body, underframe, fuel tank and bogie sideframes: $400</li><li>drive bogies, motor, and couplers: $200</li><li>optional “detail pack” containing handrail stanchions, brass wire and air hoses: $30. </li></ul>Actual costs are subject to variation due to exchange rate variations against the Euro and/or price increases in 3D printing or other parts. Postage, if required, is typically $15 within Australia.<div><br /></div><div>The initial production run of kits will be based on the AB locos as they appeared in their latter years under Westrail ownership. If there is sufficient interest, various parts can be deleted to represent the locos in earlier years. </div><div><br /></div><div>Evidence from drawings and photographs suggests the following timeline for major changes in the loco's appearance:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1983 approx. - front of short hood extended to accommodate larger, replacement batteries</li><li>1984 approx. - radio antenna "ground plane" added on top of short hood</li><li>1990's - air conditioner unit fitted behind cab</li><li>1990's - cast cab side numbers replaced with painted numbers (probably as same time as renumbering)</li></ul><p></p><p>The drive mechanism is based on smooth-running bogies by North Yard in New Zealand, same as used by the RailWest Models A class loco kit. The motor is by Auscision as used in their HO scale locomotive and is equipped with twin flywheels.</p><p><a href="https://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2021/01/ab-locomotive-assembly-instructions.html" target="_blank">Assembly instructions</a> are available online.</p><p>If you require the cab side numbers to be 3D-printed as part of the model, please specify the required number (1531-1536) or specify no numbers to be 3D-printed.</p><p>Expected delivery time: Progressive during remainder of 2021.</p><p>Deposits are refundable only if Marbelup Models is unable to deliver, for any reason, 12 months after payment of deposit.</p><p>Please note that Marbelup Models will not be producing complete locos in ready-to-run form.</p><div><br /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-44247027996711503982020-04-22T14:00:00.001+08:002020-04-22T22:06:56.331+08:00DB Loco Underframe Reinforcement with Brass Strips<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This post describes a fairly simple modification which can be retrofitted to Marbelup Models DB locomotives to correct or prevent any sag in the underframe.<br />
<br />
A characteristic of the 3D print material that it will "relax" slightly under continuous, moderate stress, which can cause a "sag", especially for a long model such as the DB locomotive. The good news is that most of the "sag" can be corrected.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It is fairly easy to retrofit 0.5 x 6 mm strips of brass on edge inside the long hood to provide more support to the underframe when the underframe and body are assembled. K&S item #9840, available from good hobby shops, includes 3 strips. Two are required per loco.<br />
<br />
The modification is applicable to both the Hollywood Foundry and ViTrains versions of the DB underframe. </div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eoytpv-F3Sw/Xp_YSStv4qI/AAAAAAAAESs/CclAXquWJyw4mZSz-uFdC02kAFtY82zZgCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DB%2BBrass%2BReinforcing%2BStrips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="1600" height="165" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eoytpv-F3Sw/Xp_YSStv4qI/AAAAAAAAESs/CclAXquWJyw4mZSz-uFdC02kAFtY82zZgCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/DB%2BBrass%2BReinforcing%2BStrips.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">General View of Underframe with Brass Reinforcements</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
Cut and bend the brass strips as per the diagram below. ( A full-size PDF template is available on request.) Join the strips, e.g. by soldering, on a flat surface to ensure the completed frame is flat and even.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1GtJ3R4peI/Xp_YSz90IbI/AAAAAAAAESw/6x3KojbdCysjvcUJBd6tbhg3aUyauwH-gCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DB%2BBrass%2BStrip%2BDetail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="1600" height="100" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1GtJ3R4peI/Xp_YSz90IbI/AAAAAAAAESw/6x3KojbdCysjvcUJBd6tbhg3aUyauwH-gCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/DB%2BBrass%2BStrip%2BDetail.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of Fabrication of Brass Reinforcements</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
For the Hollywood Foundry version only, use a cutting disk in a Dremel or similar rotary tool to remove approx. 0.5 mm from each side of the motor mounting brackets, as per the diagram below, to provide clearance for the brass strip. Use a low speed to avoid overheating the resin material.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mi--EdnqKh8/XqBOXPOK8SI/AAAAAAAAETU/6ETZBy2QFR89bOnmrC1Fr8hO7mJT1kEiACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DB%2BHF%2BMotor%2BMount%2BMod.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="723" data-original-width="935" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mi--EdnqKh8/XqBOXPOK8SI/AAAAAAAAETU/6ETZBy2QFR89bOnmrC1Fr8hO7mJT1kEiACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/DB%2BHF%2BMotor%2BMount%2BMod.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motor Mount modification for Hollywood Foundry version</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If the front bogie of the Hollywood Foundry mechanism is powered, it will be necessary to cut a shallow notch in the underside of the front end of the brass to provide clearance for the front drive shaft. The notch should be approx. 10 mm wide x 2.5 mm high.<br />
<br />
A modification is required to the 4 central fixing posts inside the body of the loco, to provide clearance for the brass reinforcement strips. This can be done with a cutting disk in a Dremel or similar rotary tool, but use a low speed to avoid overheating the resin material.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Step 1 is to cut away the lower portion of each fixing post, as per the first diagram below.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bwA27JIscXE/Xp_YSbMGjBI/AAAAAAAAESk/wH6CJ8fN4yordfkjoRzTKI_dOS6dEY-AwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DB%2BBody%2BMod%2BStep%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="674" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bwA27JIscXE/Xp_YSbMGjBI/AAAAAAAAESk/wH6CJ8fN4yordfkjoRzTKI_dOS6dEY-AwCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/DB%2BBody%2BMod%2BStep%2B1.jpg" width="355" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fixing Post Modifications - Step 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Step 2 is to cut a groove in each fixing post to a total depth of 6 mm, so that the body will rest on the brass strips when the loco is reassembled. Cut the groove in stages, so as not to cut too deeply. Use an offcut of the brass strip to check progress on each fixing post to ensure the bottom of the brass strip is flush with the bottom of the body side.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tCKwV-2Uv5o/Xp_YSY057aI/AAAAAAAAESo/BiE0yrv1SgYHk1Jv3P2vmix2w_XcPF86wCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DB%2BBody%2BMod%2BStep%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="819" data-original-width="678" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tCKwV-2Uv5o/Xp_YSY057aI/AAAAAAAAESo/BiE0yrv1SgYHk1Jv3P2vmix2w_XcPF86wCNcBGAsYHQ/s400/DB%2BBody%2BMod%2BStep%2B2.jpg" width="330" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fixing Post Modifications - Step 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Any potential sagging can be further minimised by avoiding adding too much weight to the fuel tank and, instead, locating additional weight above each bogie. Suggested weighting is no more than 60g in the fuel tank and an additional 50-60g above each bogie.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Also, make sure you insert all 10 screws to attach the underframe to the body, as this will help keep them in alignment. Be careful to not overtighten the screws though. Likewise, don't overtighten the screws securing the fuel tank to the underframe. All screws should be snug but not too tight.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-85308722971865615952019-07-11T12:24:00.000+08:002020-05-22T20:49:13.582+08:00XW/XWA Wheat Wagon Assembly Tips<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<h3>
Parts List</h3>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Couplers - Kadee #148 or #158 (see below)</li>
<li>Kadee #262 coupler boxes (supplied)</li>
<li>Fixing screws - 2-56 x 6.35 mm (¼") long, 4 required</li>
<li>Brass wire - 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm. 1.0 mm</li>
<li>Wheels - 12 mm disc with 26 mm axles, 4 wheelsets required</li>
<li><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2013/09/wmcwmd-construction-tips.html" target="_blank">WMC/WMD Bogies</a> including brass bearings, available from Marbelup Models</li>
<li>Paint and decals</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3>
Removing Support Structures</h3>
</div>
<div>
<br />
Carefully remove the support structure from the wagon. It is suggested to use a sharp knife to cut the supports away from visible areas. Take particular care around the brake wheels, and the door operating mechanism. Note that the brake wheels have guards around them to protect them during production and shipping.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over the wagon and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another including, for example, inside the coupler housing. An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (<a href="http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/detail/X511" target="_blank">Exacto #11</a> or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, especially in the visible areas. A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.<br />
<br />
There are two temporary supports for the door operating mechanism which are intended to be removed. If desired, these can be left in place until the majority of the assembly has been done.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1DZoIO4gjpA/XSanJ5f7krI/AAAAAAAADvc/HCVE2hjKe74DNgQpiQXOzwiX0OFt7MvHQCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BDoor%2BMech%2BSupports.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1044" height="260" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1DZoIO4gjpA/XSanJ5f7krI/AAAAAAAADvc/HCVE2hjKe74DNgQpiQXOzwiX0OFt7MvHQCLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BDoor%2BMech%2BSupports.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supports for Door Mechanism - to be Removed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Bogie and Coupler Mounting Holes</h3>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies have been printed at 1.8 mm diameter to suit 2-56 screws. </div>
<div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Due to the difficulty of tapping blind holes, the 3D print includes vertical grooves in the sides of the holes to help the screws cut their own threads, so tapping the holes is not required nor recommended. If the screw does not cut its own thread easily, the hole may require cleaning out with a 1.8 mm drill bit, but take care not to drill right through.<br />
<br />
The maximum depth for the coupler mounting holes is 7.25 mm. Using a screw which is too long will damage the top surface of the model, so check the screw length and trim if necessary.<br />
<br />
Note: An economical source of 2-56 screws in various lengths is <a href="http://littlebirdelectronics.com.au/search?type=product&q=2-56" target="_blank">Little Bird Electronics</a>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Couplers</h3>
<div>
<br />
The XW is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers using Kadee <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page262.htm" target="_blank">#262 draft gear boxes</a>. Two options are available, depending on user preference for correct S scale coupler height or the commonly-used HO standard coupler height.<br />
<br />
Both options use Kadee <a href="https://www.kadee.com/ho-scale-couplers-c-272_230_231/148-whisker-metal-couplers-medium-centerset-ho-p-298.htm" target="_blank">#148</a> or <a href="https://www.kadee.com/ho-scale-couplers-c-272_230_231/158-scale-whisker-metal-couplers-medium-centerset-p-304.htm" target="_blank">#158</a> couplers.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0EufzFsTCl0/XSW20AnyVQI/AAAAAAAADu0/1EPE8eiGt20-dPoL2fylg3gJVeOA27KFACLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BHO%2BCoupler%2BHeight.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="1473" height="235" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0EufzFsTCl0/XSW20AnyVQI/AAAAAAAADu0/1EPE8eiGt20-dPoL2fylg3gJVeOA27KFACLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BHO%2BCoupler%2BHeight.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_JrlEpZZMqQ/XSW20OMLAzI/AAAAAAAADuw/SjCNZvCASZ0CF6RiABQz4EWsgGvw11Y3ACEwYBhgL/s1600/XW%2BS%2BCoupler%2BHeight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="1473" height="235" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_JrlEpZZMqQ/XSW20OMLAzI/AAAAAAAADuw/SjCNZvCASZ0CF6RiABQz4EWsgGvw11Y3ACEwYBhgL/s400/XW%2BS%2BCoupler%2BHeight.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
For HO standard coupler height, the coupler mounts low down on the end sill. This is the default option. When assembled, the centre of the coupler should be 9.9 mm above rail height, which can be verified with a Kadee <a href="https://kadee.com/htmbord/page206.htm" target="_blank">#206</a> HO coupler height gauge.<br />
<br />
For correct S scale coupler height, remove the sections of the model as per the picture below, to provide a higher mounting platform. If desired, the surplus "frame" below the couple box can also be trimmed. When assembled, the centre of the coupler should be 12.2 mm above rail height. The coupler height can be checked using a Kadee <a href="https://kadee.com/htmbord/page206.htm" target="_blank">#206</a> HO coupler height gauge with a piece of 1 mm thick styrene sheet placed between the rails and the coupler height gauge.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TkXlVHibA5A/XSae4dnTjvI/AAAAAAAADvE/LmflUkXPojs-KCMY9E19lTVQBV0_fSyKACLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BCoupler%2BHeight%2BAlterations.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="746" data-original-width="916" height="260" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TkXlVHibA5A/XSae4dnTjvI/AAAAAAAADvE/LmflUkXPojs-KCMY9E19lTVQBV0_fSyKACLcBGAs/s320/XW%2BCoupler%2BHeight%2BAlterations.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modifications for correct S Scale Coupler Height</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The draft gear boxes supplied with the #148 or #142 couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position. The #262 draft gear boxes, which are available separately, are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned close to the scale distance from the wagon centre line. Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Wire Details</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
There are a few details to be added from brass wire. The following sequence is suggested:<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Door Mechanism</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XZHTIxKHDjE/XSFe89HS4aI/AAAAAAAADtk/yDBj8WGCWukScdQOuqS_a_EwVvGm6blCACLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BWire%2BDimensions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="614" data-original-width="1184" height="206" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XZHTIxKHDjE/XSFe89HS4aI/AAAAAAAADtk/yDBj8WGCWukScdQOuqS_a_EwVvGm6blCACLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BWire%2BDimensions.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Door Mechanism Wire Details (viewed from underneath)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
Secure all the wire pieces in position with superglue.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Corner Handrails</h4>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The corner handrails are simply straight wire, glued into the vertical groove in the 3D-printed support bracket.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zSguBe1VWhQ/XQm1gjbsoGI/AAAAAAAADsw/D-XaDwcy8ngGkHZM4PXJla9FgDsfYCJZgCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BCorner%2BHandrails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="798" data-original-width="1103" height="288" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zSguBe1VWhQ/XQm1gjbsoGI/AAAAAAAADsw/D-XaDwcy8ngGkHZM4PXJla9FgDsfYCJZgCLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BCorner%2BHandrails.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corner Handrails - 2 required</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Roof Details</h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
Roof details including roof hatches (4), roofwalk supports (5) and hatch bumper (8) are supplied on a separate sprue. If desired, the curved portions of the upper body can be smoothed (by scraping or filling and sanding) to remove the stepping due to the 3D-printing process. This should be done before gluing the roof details in place.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
An alternate version of the model is available in which only the roof hatches are printed separately. For this version, the roofwalk supports and hatch bumpers are printed as part of the body. This simplifies assembly but some stepping will be apparent on the top of the body, as it is impractical to smooth the curved portions with the small details present.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DW2PIRTItRM/XSakbnFxvtI/AAAAAAAADvQ/Pka511JPuU8J1LIJd3AYB-G6aQOOjfJogCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BRoof%2BDetails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="1086" height="230" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DW2PIRTItRM/XSakbnFxvtI/AAAAAAAADvQ/Pka511JPuU8J1LIJd3AYB-G6aQOOjfJogCLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BRoof%2BDetails.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roof Details. Note correct orientation for parts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Etched Roofwalk and Steps</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MjOnwHVmQEk/XSFmtpSmNrI/AAAAAAAADuE/s8GmkXuxERoZFvjjTq-n4VngXv0dz6JtwCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BCorner%2BSteps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="526" data-original-width="1024" height="205" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MjOnwHVmQEk/XSFmtpSmNrI/AAAAAAAADuE/s8GmkXuxERoZFvjjTq-n4VngXv0dz6JtwCLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BCorner%2BSteps.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Folding Corner Steps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X63NMM1vyVg/XSGrC_z-AZI/AAAAAAAADuc/o8mzF9OSh50dCkyuvn5Qz3N5QRpxeVt_gCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BRoofwalk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="822" height="468" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X63NMM1vyVg/XSGrC_z-AZI/AAAAAAAADuc/o8mzF9OSh50dCkyuvn5Qz3N5QRpxeVt_gCLcBGAs/s640/XW%2BRoofwalk.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Folding Roofwalk and Ladders. Check orientation before folding!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CWkYC2T4b5I/XSFknk4MD3I/AAAAAAAADtw/qhF-qUoRe9MAaASDN5QQK94Y0RZBktSNwCEwYBhgL/s1600/XW%2BRoofwalk%2BDetail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="736" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CWkYC2T4b5I/XSFknk4MD3I/AAAAAAAADtw/qhF-qUoRe9MAaASDN5QQK94Y0RZBktSNwCEwYBhgL/s640/XW%2BRoofwalk%2BDetail.jpg" width="578" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of Roofwalk Folding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6UqNSbryYHc/XSFnu4a-BDI/AAAAAAAADuQ/NJqBbLJGIVkqShxuD-XklifWj94xg1jVQCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BLadder%2BAttachment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="820" data-original-width="836" height="391" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6UqNSbryYHc/XSFnu4a-BDI/AAAAAAAADuQ/NJqBbLJGIVkqShxuD-XklifWj94xg1jVQCLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BLadder%2BAttachment.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladder Attachment Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Work Stand</h3>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A 3D-printed work stand is available which supports the completed wagon upside-down, without damage to the roofwalk components, for use when fitting bogies and couplers.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-onVSRHhcayA/XSa5TXM1vVI/AAAAAAAADv0/U13QHivV7v8PaWnVi58wkAtYT9C09732QCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BWork%2BStand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="946" height="230" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-onVSRHhcayA/XSa5TXM1vVI/AAAAAAAADv0/U13QHivV7v8PaWnVi58wkAtYT9C09732QCLcBGAs/s320/XW%2BWork%2BStand.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Weighting</h3>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or small pieces of sheet lead in the cavities at the ends of the hopper.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWP3Zrs6Gnw/XSao49eRyGI/AAAAAAAADvo/2IZmyt6POlUnvOUvcpsCPCnLuWE6uBVdwCLcBGAs/s1600/XW%2BWeight%2BCavity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1057" height="305" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWP3Zrs6Gnw/XSao49eRyGI/AAAAAAAADvo/2IZmyt6POlUnvOUvcpsCPCnLuWE6uBVdwCLcBGAs/s400/XW%2BWeight%2BCavity.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cavities provided for adding weight (both ends).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Painting</h3>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model. The sample model was airbrushed with Model Master enamel "Gelb RLM 04" (yellow) over Model Master white primer. </span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2013/04/marbelup-models-home-page.html">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-89567578630387795732019-06-30T12:25:00.002+08:002021-04-22T13:59:03.206+08:00D/DA Loco Assembly Tips<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Please Note - This is a "work in progress" with the idea of recording information while I am working on the construction and testing of the development models.<br />
<br />
Update - June 2019. The design of the DA loco has been amended to suit the ViTrains mechanism, as used for the DB models, due to the unavailability of further Hollywood Foundry mechanisms. Refer to the <a href="https://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2019/06/dda-loco-with-vitrains-mechanism-extra.html" target="_blank">Supplementary Instructions</a> for details of the changes.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Parts List (Preliminary - subject to change)</h3>
<div>
In <span style="font-family: inherit;">addition </span>to the 3D printed parts, the following parts must be obtained separately by the modeller:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Brass wire for handrails, etc. (0.4 mm, 0.6 mm)</li>
<li>Air hoses - e.g. Detail Associates <a href="https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/229-6206" target="_blank">#6206</a> (Vacuum brake hoses are included.)</li>
<li>Handrail Knobs (4) for uncoupling levers - e.g. Markits 1.5 mm(short - available from Railwest Models.</li>
<li>Handrail Stanchions (20 - optional) - <a href="http://www.ppw-aline.com/detlloco.htm" target="_blank">A-Line D1071</a>. Limited quantities available from Marbelup Models.</li>
<li>Wheels - 12 x Northyard 401N - see below.</li>
<li>Bogie drive mechanisms - see below (Hollywood Foundry)</li>
<li>Motor - Mashima 1833D Flat Can (double shaft, 2 mm diameter, includes fixing screws) (Hollywood Foundry)</li>
<li>Drive shaft(s) - 1.5 mm diameter, e.g. K&S #9862 (5 x 300 mm lengths per pack)</li>
<li>Universal Joint set for 1.5 mm shafts (Hollywood Foundry)</li>
<li>Flexible coupling(s) for motor end(s) of drive shafts (Hollywood Foundry). </li>
<li>DCC decoder and speaker (both optional)</li>
<li>Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) for headlights 4 x 3 mm (sunny white) and optic fibre (2 mm)</li>
<li>LEDs (red and white) and optic fibre, if operating marker lights desired</li>
<li>paint as desired</li>
<li>lead or other weighting material</li>
<li>Kadee couplers #156 ("scale") or #146 (normal size)</li>
<li>Kadee draft gear boxes #262</li>
<li>Fixing screws for body, couplers and fuel tank e.g. <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page256.htm" target="_blank">Kadee #256</a> - 12 holes are included correct size (1.8 mm) ready for tapping 2-56.</li>
<li>Fixing screws for speaker M1.4 x 6 (slightly longer is OK) - 4 holes are included correct size (1.1 mm) and screws should make their own thread, tapping shouldn't be required. Suitable screws are available from DCC Concepts - Part No. DCS-PHB156 or in assortment DCS-PHBSet. Although described as 1.5 mm, the DCC Concepts screws are actually M1.4 thread.</li>
<li>Fixing screws (optional) for bogie sideframes - self tappers, 1 mm dia. x 3 mm long (8 required). Suitable screws are available from DCC Concepts - Part No. <a href="http://www.dccconcepts.com/gauges-tools-amp-fasteners/dccconcepts-micro-screws/pan-hd-60-1x3mm" target="_blank">DCS-PH103</a></li>
<li>Decals - Westland Models are developing decals for the original green WAGR livery and may also offer decals for later liveries.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Wheels</h3>
<br />
The correct size 15.7 mm wheels are available from <a href="http://northyard.co.nz/" target="_blank">Northyard</a> in New Zealand.<br />
<br />
Each loco requires 12 x 401N wheels, as illustrated in the following extract from the <a href="http://northyard.co.nz/catalogue.pdf" target="_blank">Northyard Catalogue</a>:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ju1_xRFtI4U/VIZaptvx3kI/AAAAAAAABHE/052o4MjBlw0/s1600/NY%2B401N%2BWheels2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ju1_xRFtI4U/VIZaptvx3kI/AAAAAAAABHE/052o4MjBlw0/s1600/NY%2B401N%2BWheels2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Contact Northyard direct via email: northyard@xtra.co.nz for a quote for the wheels. The current (December 2014) catalogue price is NZ$1.80 per wheel.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Hollywood Foundry Drive Components</h3>
<br />
It is up to the modeller's individual preference whether to fit two drive bogies or a single drive bogie plus a dummy bogie.<br />
<br />
Drive bogie specifications: <span face=""calibri" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1f497d; font-size: 15px;">G16.5/B29.8+29.8/W15.7-110/22:</span><wbr style="background-color: white; color: #1f497d; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"></wbr><span face=""calibri" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1f497d; font-size: 15px;">1DUALBELT/NOBOL</span><br />
Dummy bogie specifications: <span face=""calibri" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1f497d; font-size: 15px;">G16.5/B29.8+29.8/W15.7-110/</span><wbr style="background-color: white; color: #1f497d; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"></wbr><span face=""calibri" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1f497d; font-size: 15px;">NOBOL</span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
To order the above bogie configurations, please use the <a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=11&cat=SP" target="_blank">special order page</a> on the Hollywood Foundry web site and copy and paste the above codes into the Product Description field. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The modeller should purchase the wheels from Northyard and send them to Hollywood Foundry in conjunction with each order.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The current (February 2016) pricing for the required Hollywood Foundry parts is:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Drive bogie - $91.30 (same price as <a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?catalogid=85" target="_blank">Bullant In-Line 3-Axle</a>)</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
Dummy bogie - $52.80 (same price as <a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?catalogid=87" target="_blank">Bullant 3-axle Dummy</a>)</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
Motor: Mashima <a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/MHK1833.htm?id=46" target="_blank">M1833D</a> - $31.35</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/default.htm#components" target="_blank">Universal Joint Set</a> for 1.5 mm shafts (set contains parts for 4 joints. 1 joint is required per drive bogie, but it is recommended to purchase 1 set per loco to allow for some "spares".) - $4.19 per set<br />
<br />
Silicone Tubing - used for flexible coupling between motor and drive shaft(s). Supplied free by Hollywood Foundry if requested when ordering other parts. Tubing will fit both 2 mm motor shaft and 1.5 mm drive shaft.<br />
<br />
Total price for two drive bogie configuration is $218.14 (plus approx $10 postage)<br />
Total price for single drive bogie configuration is $171.94 (plus approx $10 postage)</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div>
<br />
Please not that the above prices set by Hollywood Foundry and are subject to change.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Bogie Pivot Assembly</h3>
<br />
<table border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><span style="color: purple;"><b>Note:</b> Prior to assembling the Hollywood Foundry bogies to the underframe, place each bogie on a flat surface (glass is ideal) and check that the bogie doesn't rock from end to end. Some bogies have been found to have the centre axle set a fraction of a millimetre too low, which means the outer axles don't properly contact the rails and could cause derailments. If you are unlucky enough to experience this problem, contact Hollywood Foundry for repair or replacement under their <a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/warranty.shtm" target="_blank">Lifetime Warranty</a>.</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The underframe is designed for a nominal thickness of washers/packing of 1 mm between the top of the bogies and the mounting surface on the underframe.<br />
<br />
The Hollywood Foundry bogies are supplied with two plastic shouldered washers, a formed phosphor bronze spring, a flat steel washer and an M1.4 machine screw. <br />
<br />
For assembly to the 3D-printed underframe, it is recommended to discard the flat steel washer and upper plastic shouldered washer. This should result in the correct loco height from the rails and the phosphor bronze springs (at both ends) should minimise side-to-side rocking of the loco while allowing some movement to cope with uneven track.<br />
<br />
Secure the bogie with the M1.4 screw provided, but don't tighten it fully so as to allow some for and aft rocking movement of the bogie as well.<br />
<br />
To check the loco height, fit the underframe and body together, with couplers attached, and check the coupler height against a <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page206.htm" target="_blank">Kadee HO coupler height gauge</a>. Be aware that the 3D-printed underframe is somewhat flexible on its own, and relies on the rigidity of the body to keep it straight and level. The top surface of the footplate should be 26 mm above rail level.<br />
<br />
If the loco sits too low, a spacer should be cut from styrene and added above the phosphor bronze spring (or glued to the bogie pivot on the underframe). The spacer needs to be large enough, e.g. 8 mm square, so that the phosphor bronze spring is effective in minimise rocking.<br />
<br />
If side-to-side rocking is still a problem, Marbelup Models can provide details to fabricate a mounting plate from brass sheet and wire which can be fitted to the top of the rear bogie, to provide a "3-point" suspension. Marbelup Models is also experimenting with a 3D-printed version of this mounting plate which is printed in high-detailed stainless steel at a cost of approx. $16.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">Drive Shaft Assembly</span></h3>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">Brass rod 1.5 mm diameter is suitable for the drive shaft(s). </span><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">The required length is approx 72-73 mm. Check the exact length required from your model. Allow some "end play" in the universal joint at the bogie end to accommodate movement of the bogie on curves or uneven track.</span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">Hollywood Foundry have published an </span><a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/Docs/Assembly%20of%20Steel%20Drive%20Shaft.pdf" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;" target="_blank">instruction sheet</a><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"> on the basic assembly. On</span><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">e end of each shaft requires a "flat" to be ground or filed to accommodate the male end of the plastic universal joint. Grind or file a flat on the shaft with a minimum length of about 2 mm. The depth of the flat should be 0.3 mm, so that the measurement over the remaining shaft is 1.2 mm. </span><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">Don't force the joint onto the shaft if it is very tight, as it may split later.</span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">Hollywood Foundry can supply silicone tubing (free on request with each order) for the motor end of each drive shaft. The tubing is sufficiently flexible to fit both the 1.5 mm drive shafts and 2 mm motor shaft.</span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">The drive shaft for the front bogie of a loco with both bogies driven must pass through the "tunnel" in the speaker housing. One technique is to attach the drive shaft to the motor before installing the motor, then pass the drive shaft through the "tunnel" to engage with the universal joint on the bogie and, finally, fix the motor in position with the short M2 screws provided with the motor. The rear drive shaft can be attached to the motor last, as there is no "tunnel" to get in the way.</span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">For a loco with one powered bogie, it is suggested to install the powered bogie at the rear to avoid the "tunnel" and leave the cab free for interior detailing, if desired.</span></div>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">Couplers</span></h3>
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">The suggested couplers are Kadee <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page156.htm" target="_blank">#156</a> ("scale" head) or <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page146.htm" target="_blank">#146</a> (normal size head). These are both "long shank" style which avoids the problem of the "glad hand" on opposing couplers from fouling the cowcatcher. The choice between normal and "scale" size is up to the individual modeller. </span><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">The suggested draft gear boxes are Kadee </span><a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page262.htm" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;" target="_blank">#262</a><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"> which available separately in packs of 10 pairs. Kadee suggest assembling the coupler so that the main part of the draft gear box is on the bottom and the lid is on top. </span><span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;">The draft gear boxes simply snap together. </span><br />
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
If the coupler height is a little too high, a styrene spacer can be added between the couplers and the underframe. The bottom of the coupler opening in the end sill is only 0.5 mm thick, to allow it to be easily cut or filed if a deeper opening is required. If a spacer of more than 0.25 mm is required, it may also be necessary to trim the bottom flange from the Kadee draft gear box to clear the top of the cowcatcher.<br />
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div>
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
<h3 style="margin: 0px; position: relative;">
<span style="color: #222222;">DCC and Sound</span></h3>
<div>
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The underframe is specially designed to accept a 23 mm square high-bass speaker (</span><a href="http://www.soundtraxx.com/price/#speaker" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Soundtraxx 810129</a><span style="color: #222222;"> or equivalent) if a sound decoder is to be installed. The speaker faces downwards on a "sound duct" which has a "tunnel" through it for the front drive shaft. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The underframe speaker mount include four holes, nominally 1.1 mm diameter, which are suitable for M1.4 fixing screws, 6-8 mm long. Ideally, the holes should be tapped with a M1.4 thread, but the screws can be inserted without tapping. (DCC Concepts sell suitable screws - part number <a href="http://www.dccconcepts.com/gauges-tools-amp-fasteners/dccconcepts-micro-screws/nut-bolt-60-1-4-x-6mm" target="_blank">DCS-NB14x6</a> or as part of an assortment <a href="http://www.dccconcepts.com/gauges-tools-amp-fasteners/dccconcepts-micro-screws/240-micro-bolts-and-nuts" target="_blank">DCS-Nbset</a>.)</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The recommended sound decoder is the Soundtraxx Tsunami EMD 645 Non-Turbo. The <a href="http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/1000at.php#bot" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Tsunami "AT" style decoder model 828048</a> is suitable and slightly cheaper than the <a href="http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/1000.php#bot" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">TSU-1000 style model 827109</a>.</span><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="color: #222222;">Note: The above links are for the SoundTraxx web site. SoundTraxx do not sell direct but their products are available from many retailers.</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Body Preparation and Details</span></span></h3>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Take care when removing the support structure from the body, especially around the cab windows to avoid damaging the vertical dividers between the windows. </span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Once the body has been "cleaned up", it is also necessary to remove the two temporary braces which link the fixing posts near the centre of the body, as highlighted in yellow below. These have been included to protect the body during production and shipping, and must be cut away to provide clearance for the motor, etc. These can be cut with a fine-toothed razor saw or a cutting disk in a rotary tool, as low speed. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYofBJRMhm4/VNrqAw3JpWI/AAAAAAAABLw/JqHHBEcHlgE/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BBraces.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYofBJRMhm4/VNrqAw3JpWI/AAAAAAAABLw/JqHHBEcHlgE/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BBraces.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The eight fixing holes in the body shell should be tapped with a 2-56 thread. If necessary, clean out the holes prior to tapping using a 1.8 mm drill bit.</span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">If using dual drive bogies, there are areas marked on the lower, end wall of the cab which need to be cut out to provide clearance for the front drive shaft and bogie mechanism. These are highlighted in yellow in the image below.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eR4tu-x0ZBw/VNrpJLEVoTI/AAAAAAAABLo/_3RRnWr_KUM/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BCutouts.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eR4tu-x0ZBw/VNrpJLEVoTI/AAAAAAAABLo/_3RRnWr_KUM/s1600/D%2BDA%2BBody%2BCutouts.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<h4 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Handrails</span></span></h4>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;">Starter holes are provided on the body for three handrails which can be formed from brass wire (e.g. 0.3 or 0.4 mm). The started holes should be drilled out slightly larger, e.g 0.05 mm larger than the wire size.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #222222;">One handrail is inside the recessed step nearest the top on the left side of the loco, next to the radiator grilles. The spacing between the holes is 3.5 mm (centre-to-centre).</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UeuCo8NshSY/VNrbEngyYTI/AAAAAAAABLE/dTm4jcFa9ds/s1600/D%2BDA%2BTop%2BHandrail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UeuCo8NshSY/VNrbEngyYTI/AAAAAAAABLE/dTm4jcFa9ds/s1600/D%2BDA%2BTop%2BHandrail.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by G Stallard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;">The other two handrails are on the roof, adjacent to the recessed steps. The spacing between the holes is 8 mm. Photos indicated that the bends in the top handrails should have a radius of approx. 1.5 mm. Radiussed corners can be formed by bending the wire around the shank of a drill bit, or using special pliers with round jaws.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xKMak6mAG5o/VNrbe7zzniI/AAAAAAAABLM/bhQy16rwivQ/s1600/D%2BDA%2BRoof%2BHandrails.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xKMak6mAG5o/VNrbe7zzniI/AAAAAAAABLM/bhQy16rwivQ/s1600/D%2BDA%2BRoof%2BHandrails.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by G Stallard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Starter holes are also provided on the end walls of the cab for the long handrails which run along the side of the loco - see below. </div>
<div style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">
<h4 style="margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #222222;">Long Handrails on Underframe</span></h4>
<div>
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">The 3D-printed chassis incorporates holes approx. 0.6 mm diameter to house the vertical handrail posts, typically cut from 0.6 mm brass wire. </span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">One option for the handrails is to solder each section of handrails from 0.6 mm brass wire. Marbelup Models can supply a PDF template for the handrails on request or download it from <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r71XK7X5biEbsvc-EZcw-acqEe6EuZRj/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">D/DA Handrail Template</a>. If printing the template yourself, make sure you print at 100% scaling to get the correct size.</span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Note that the end walls of the cab have starter holes for the horizontal handrails. </span>Assuming 0.6 mm wire is used for the long handrails (and shorter ones at the front of the loco), it is suggested to drill the holes in the cab end walls slightly larger e.g. 0.7 mm, so the handrails are an easy fit. Ideally, the handrails should be trimmed so that just enough extends into the holes (e.g. 0.5 mm) so they they appear to be attached when the loco is fully assembled. If the handrails extend too far into the holes in the can, it will be more difficult to disassembly the loco.</div>
<h4 style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 1.4;">Use of A-Line Handrail Stanchions</span></h4>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 1.4;">An alter</span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.4;">native, which is potentially easier than soldering, is to use preformed steel handrail stanchions available from <a href="http://www.ppw-aline.com/detlloco.htm" target="_blank">A-Line (Division of Proto-Power West, USA)</a>. These are available from various online hobby shops and/or eBay. (Marbelup Models has limited stocks of these stanchions available at $15 per pack of 35 stanchions.)</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6-bzGummX4/VGHZFd04gxI/AAAAAAAABAg/JG96M4TPPPE/s1600/ALine%2BStanchions.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="104" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6-bzGummX4/VGHZFd04gxI/AAAAAAAABAg/JG96M4TPPPE/s1600/ALine%2BStanchions.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">A-Line Handrail Stanchions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">Although these stanchions are intended for HO locos, the two longest sizes are sufficiently long to be trimmed to the correct length for the D and A. The A-line part numbers are D1071 (long) and D1071 (extra long). The stanchions should be trimmed at the bottom to a length of 18.5 mm, measured from the top of the "loop". For the handrails on the end platform, the stanchions should be trimmed to 17.5 mm. After trimming, file off any rough edges from the cut end.</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;">The holes in the 3D-printed chassis should be carefully drilled out to accommodate the stanchions (suggested drill size: </span><span style="color: #222222;">0.75 mm</span><span style="color: #222222;"> </span><span style="color: #222222;"> - test on some scrap plastic first). Carefully insert each stanchion vertically into the drilled hole, taking care to align the loop perpendicular to the sides of the loco. It is also suggested to orient all stanchions the same way, e.g. with the open side of the top loop inwards. Make sure the bottom of each stanchion is level with the underside of the running boards.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;">Once the stanchions are installed, 0.6 mm brass wire can be threaded through the line of stanchions to complete the handrail. Some custom bending will be required at the ends of the loco and where the height of the handrail varies. The PDF template may be useful for this.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Once all the stanchions are in place and the long handrails threaded through, check that all the stanchions are vertical and make any necessary adjustments. Then, the brass handrail can be secured to each stanchion with superglue and, if desired, the stanchions glued into the holes in the running boards. Note that the short handrails in front of the cab should not be glued as they may need to be removed prior to separating the body and chassis, e.g. for maintenance.</span></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div>
</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Horns</h4>
Four horns are included as part of the 3D-printed underframe. Carefully remove them from the underframe, leaving the spigots attached to the horns intact as much as possible. Only two are required, with two spares.</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
(Alternate horns can be source from detail parts suppliers e.g. in brass, if greater robustness is desired.)</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
Starter holes are provided for the horns on the rear wall of the cab (right side) and on the front wall of the cab (both sides). Early photos show the front horn on the right side of the loco (as pictured below) and later photos show the front horn on the left side of the loco. Consult photos appropriate to the era being modelled to determine correct horn placement.</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
Drill out the starter holes to suit the diameter of the spigot on the back end of the horns. Carefully trim the unwanted spigot projecting sideways from the horn.</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qLRGd_9wAcg/VNrd1qtvsrI/AAAAAAAABLY/UK6l2RNX3R4/s1600/DA%2BHorns.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qLRGd_9wAcg/VNrd1qtvsrI/AAAAAAAABLY/UK6l2RNX3R4/s1600/DA%2BHorns.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of Rail Heritage WA.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4 style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">
Headlights</h4>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
The holes provided in the body shell for headlights are nominally 1.8 mm diameter, but typically slightly undersize due to the 3D printing process. The headlights should be 2 mm in diameter, so drill the holes out to 2 mm taking care not damage the thin surround around the hole.<br />
<br />
(The holes are deliberately undersize because the thin surround would not print otherwise, as the minimum detail thickness is 0.5 mm. and the outside diameter of the surround is 2.8 mm.)</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
One method of lighting the headlights is to use a short length of optic fibre together with a 3 mm LED (Light Emitting Diode). <br />
<br />
The D and DA locos had "sealed beam" headlights for which "sunny white" LEDs are a suitable approximation. (Many older locos had larger diameter headlights with replaceable bulbs which tended to have a more yellow appearance, similar to "golden yellow" LEDs.)</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
Note: Incandescent (filament) lamps are not recommended due to their high operating temperature which may damage the 3D print material.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
To attach the LED to the optic fibre, 3 mm black heatshink tubing is recommended. With the use of a hot air gun, the heatshrink tubing will shrink to form a snug fit over the optic fibre. However, the hot air may well be hot enough to melt the plastic optic fibre, so the trick is to shrink the tubing over the shank of a 2 mm drill bit, them slide the drill bit out and slide in the optic fibre.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
Typical steps are:</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<ol style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<li>Cut heatshrink tubing to length, e.g. 8-10 mm.</li>
<li>Hold 3 mm LED in a small vice by its legs, with the clear lens uppermost.</li>
<li>Push the cut length of heatshrink tubing over the clear lens of the LED.</li>
<li>Hold the shank of a 2 mm drill bit inside the heatshrink tubing while applying heat from a hot air gun.</li>
<li>When it has cooled, withdraw the drill bit and insert the desired length of optic fibre. For the rear of the loco, you will probably have to feed the non-flared end of the optic fibre through the curved hole provided (from the outside) and attached the LED with attached heatshrink tubing on the inside.</li>
</ol>
<div style="font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<span style="background-color: red;"><span style="color: yellow;">CAUTION: Do not used the hot air gun or other heat source to shrink the heatshrink tubing in close proximity to the loco body or other 3D printed parts as they may distort due to the heat.</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">
For the dual headlights, it is simplest to wire the two LED in series as this reduces the wiring and avoids the need for two separate resistors. A resistor of around 2K2 (2,200 ohms) is a suggested starting point for LEDs powered from DCC decoders.<br />
<br />
A "conduit" has been provided in the roof of the cab to allow the headlight wires to be fed through into the short hood.<br />
<br />
Marker lights can also be drilled out and illuminated if desired.</div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-20232953877636610232019-06-30T12:19:00.003+08:002021-03-26T16:37:18.435+08:00D/DA Loco with ViTrains Mechanism - Extra Instructions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As of June 2019, Marbelup Models has modified the design for the DA locomotive to suit the ViTrains mechanism, as used for the DB locomotive, due to the closure of <a href="http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/" target="_blank">Hollywood Foundry</a> and unavailability of their mechanisms.<br />
<br />
The changes made are:<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>ViTrains drive bogies and motor used, from their UK Class 47 model.</li>
<li>Coupler height changed to correct WAGR scale height, with option to fit Kadee #149 offset couplers to match Kadee HO scale coupler height (same as for DB loco).</li>
<li>Coupler draft gear boxes changed from Kadee #262 (narrow type) to #242, which are the type supplied with all Kadee whisker couplers. The wider #242 box allows greater coupler swing on curves.</li>
<li>Provision made for brass strips (6 x 1 mm) to reinforce the underframe and support the weight of the motor and (weighted) fuel tank.</li>
<li>Extra thickness added to the attachment points for the fuel tank, to minimise the risk of stripping the screw threads in the underframe. </li>
<li>An additional "parts sprue" which includes a rectangular frame to fix the motor in position, 2 drive shafts and packing pieces for adjusting coupler height (in 3 thicknesses).</li>
<li>A cutout is included in the rear cab wall to provide clearance for the ViTrains bogie gear tower.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Note that these changes also involve changes to the body, fuel tank and bogie sideframes, so it is not possible to retrofit the ViTrains mechanism to an existing model built for the Hollywood Foundry mechanism.</div>
<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Underframe Preparation and Coupler installation </h4>
<br />
Refer to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2017/06/db-loco-assembly-tips.html" target="_blank">DB Assembly Instructions</a>, the only difference being the use of #242 coupler boxes.<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
ViTrains Mechanism Assembly</h4>
<br />
Refer to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2017/06/db-loco-vitrains-underframe-assembly.html" target="_blank">DB Loco ViTrains Instructions</a>. Note that the drive shafts supplied are slightly shorter than those for the DB and are not interchangeable.<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Brass Reinforcing Strips</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The 6 x 1 mm reinforcing strips are cut from <a href="http://www.ksmetals.com/29.html" target="_blank">K&S item 9843</a>, each pack containing 3 x 300 mm long strips, of which only 2 are required.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HkSKfWBt6Y0/XRg0Vb7Z1ZI/AAAAAAAADtI/g91ubEuUPjUbBsOn3Hlywp20y6zq0aLqACLcBGAs/s1600/DA%2BBrass%2BStrips.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="1574" height="182" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HkSKfWBt6Y0/XRg0Vb7Z1ZI/AAAAAAAADtI/g91ubEuUPjUbBsOn3Hlywp20y6zq0aLqACLcBGAs/s400/DA%2BBrass%2BStrips.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Location of Brass Reinforcing Strips</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
The strips should be cut to 180 mm long. Recesses are provided in the speaker support enclosure (just behind the cab), and in the support "saddle" for the rear drive bogie. The strips should fit neatly in the recesses, but shouldn't be a tight fit. Don't force the strips into position if they are tight, as this could fracture the 3D printed underframe. Instead, file the top of the strip slightly until if fits.</div>
<div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Position the strips so that the front end of the strip extends about 6.5 mm in front of the speaker support enclosure. In the photo below, the strips can be seen through the unpainted body. The strips are white in colour, as styrene strips were used to test the fit pending purchase of the brass material<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0OevPLxMWM4/XRg6UVzkDPI/AAAAAAAADtU/4QYnCGJGrqUPfE32ckXK99nbm4bw0ajSgCLcBGAs/s1600/DA%2BVT%2BTest%2BModel.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="1600" height="137" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0OevPLxMWM4/XRg6UVzkDPI/AAAAAAAADtU/4QYnCGJGrqUPfE32ckXK99nbm4bw0ajSgCLcBGAs/s400/DA%2BVT%2BTest%2BModel.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo of Test Model (prior to fitting of correct bogie sideframes)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When the body is attached, the strips will be held in position but it may be useful to secure the strips to the underframe with glue (e.g. superglue or Pliobond) or thin double-sided tape, so they stay in position until final assembly.</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-89494898051856422572019-06-06T11:27:00.000+08:002019-06-06T11:27:41.864+08:00Marbelup Models - Available for Immediate Purchase<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">After an autumn stocktake, the following models are available in stock for immediate purchase:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Sn3½ Scale</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<h3>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">SOLD - <strike>1 x DB Locomotive kit Sn3</strike></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><strike>½</strike></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><strike> scale... $410</strike> </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">3 x ViTrains UK Class 47 mechanism for DB Locomotive... $140 each</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">1 x ZBA brake van... $140</span></span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">1 x CXB Sheep Wagon... $95 (sheep also available). </span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">1 x SXT Bogie Sheep Wagon... $195 each (sheep also available)</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">.</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">2 x DC vans with plain sides and doors... $75 each</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">1 x DC van with T&G side, plain doors... $75</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">5 x WAGR Water Columns, extended version... $15 each</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">4 pr WMC/WMD bogies... $22 pr</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">3 pr WBC bogies... $28 pr</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">HO Scale (clearance, no longer in production)</span></span></div>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">1 x WOB iron ore wagon... $40</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">1 x WOB iron ore wagon in polyamide material with broken step... $20</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">SOLD - <strike>3 x BHP Golynx iron ore wagons in polyamide material with broken step... $20 each</strike></span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: 400;">HO Scale Bogies</span></span></div>
<ul>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">18 pr <a href="https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3009/Default.aspx" target="_blank">Tichy #3009 bogies</a> with Intermountain brass 36" wheels... $10 per pair</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">3 pr <a href="https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3009/Default.aspx" target="_blank">Tichy #3009 bogies</a> with Aucision metal 36" wheels... $10 per pair</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">4 pr <a href="https://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page513_555_569_1569.htm" target="_blank">Kadee #569 roller bearing bogies</a> with 36" metal wheels... $16 per pair</span><br style="font-size: medium;" /><span style="font-size: small;">Both the Tichy and Kadee bogies suit WAGR and BHP ore wagons, as well as WW and WF wagons</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">9 pr Kato 31-602 Barber S-2 roller bearing bogies with 33" metal wheels... $10 per pair</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Note: Postage cost is additional - typically $10 but $20 for DB locomotive. This section will be updated when items are sold or new items become available, so check in from time to time to see what is available. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><br /></span>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</h3>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-54237048012749366862019-05-11T11:51:00.000+08:002019-05-11T11:51:58.919+08:00Marbelup Models FAQ<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Are the 3D-Printed Models Long Lasting?</h4>
<h3>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal;">
<br />
Because the "Prime Gray" material which is used for most of the 3D-printed parts has only been available for only four or five years, the long term durability and stability of the material is unknown. The manufacturer (3D Systems) claims that the material is "tough" and "durable". Marbleup Models has 2-year old printed parts which are in perfect condition.<br />
<br />
i.Materialise suggest avoiding exposure of models to sunlight or other UV light sources, which can cause discolouration. The material does soften at temperatures of 47C or above, so also avoid leaving models in hot cars and other places where high temperatures may be experienced. If interested, you can read more about the Prime Gray material (trade name Xtreme) at <a href="http://prototyping.materialise.com/stereolithography-materials-datasheets" target="_blank">materialise.com</a> or <a href="http://www.3dsystems.com/materials/accurar-xtreme#.UmZRBvkwcne" target="_blank">3D Systems</a> web sites.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal;">
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
</h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Do you sell "Ready to Run" models or complete kits?</h4>
</div>
</h3>
<h3>
<div style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal;">
<br />
No, Marbelup Models DOES NOT offer an assembly service, nor do we offer a complete "kit" of parts. We just sell the 3D printed parts. It will be up to the individual modeller to obtain the other parts required to complete the model, and to research prototype plans and photos to ascertain placement of detail parts, colour schemes, etc.<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
What level of modelling skill is required?</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A degree of modelling skill is required to produce a finished model. Typically, the modeller must remove support structures from the 3D printed parts, assemble the major parts, fit wheels/bogies, couplers, and detail parts, and apply paint and decals. Online instructions are available for each model with more information on construction and what other parts and materials are required.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Are special paints or glues required for the 3D-printed models</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
No, normal hobby paints, both enamels and acrylics work fine. Some modellers have reported that some brands of superglue don't work well with the 3D-printed material. Selleys Quick Fix Single Shot works well. It is available in packs of five small tubes from hardware stores.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Why are the models in S scale when HO is more popular?</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Since about 1980, railway modellers in Western Australia have been using Sn3½ scale to model the local narrow gauge rail system and there is now an active community of over 50 modellers. Initially, Sn3½ was chosen because it allowed the use of many HO parts such as wheels, locomotive mechanisms and track. Sn3½ was and still is popular in New Zealand and many parts can be obtained from there.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The 1:64 scale means that the models are about 30% larger than HO models, giving the correct "narrow gauge" look. The larger scale also allows more detail to be included in the models as many of the models were and still are made by hand or from basic cast resin kits.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Although HOn3½ has become more popular in recent years, particularly for modelling the Queensland narrow gauge rail system, Sn3½ remains the most popular scale in Western Australia for modellers of WAGR narrow gauge. <br />
<br />
From mid-2015 to early 2019, Marbelup Models has produced some models of WAGR/Westrail standard gauge rolling stock in HO scale to allow modellers to obtain some authentic HO scale model to run with the L class diesel locos being produced by both <a href="http://haskellco.net/Lclass.html">Haskell Co</a> and <a href="http://www.southernrailmodels.com.au/l-class.html">Southern Rail Models</a>. The HO scale range is no longer available and no new HO models are being contemplated.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Where can I find more information about modelling Western Australian railways?</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The <a href="http://wasnmodeller.blogspot.com.au/" target="_blank">WASn3½ Blog</a> is a good starting point. It has links to many other sites with relevant prototype and modelling information, photographs, etc. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The <a href="http://www.amra.asn.au/wa.htm" target="_blank">Australian Model Railway Association (AMRA) WA Branch</a> also has an active S Scale Special Interest Group which meets monthly at the AMRA clubrooms in Bayswater, WA. <br />
<br />
There is also a "Western Australian Model Railways" group on Facebook.<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Where is Marbelup? Are you based there?</h4>
<br />
No, Marbelup Models is based in Perth. Marbelup is a townsite near the south coast of Western Australia about 16 km west of Albany. It lies at the intersection of the South Coast Highway and the Perth-Albany railway line. Although designated as a townsite, it never developed into a town so the name remains for the locality. I chose the name for my <a href="http://members.iinet.net.au/~judithandrichard/marbelup/" target="_blank">Model Railway</a> around 1997 and decided to use the same name in 2013 when I started Marbelup Models.<br />
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Why is the date on the Marbelup Models Home Page up to several months in the future? Is this a mistake?</h4>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
No. Blogspot always displays the most recently-changed page when someone "visits" the http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/ address. Manually setting the publication date a couple of months ahead ensures that the Home Page displays by default.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;">
</span></div>
</h3>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-55342253087304824482019-01-22T16:56:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:56:05.379+08:00QMC Car Wagon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X8UYb2f_YBM/U40mN-Kg-eI/AAAAAAAAA0o/gtKt-QkDTVY/s1600/photo+(50).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X8UYb2f_YBM/U40mN-Kg-eI/AAAAAAAAA0o/gtKt-QkDTVY/s1600/photo+(50).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The QMC car wagons were converted in 1963 from the earlier QMB wagons. The WMB's were used to carry car bodies only, which were fully assembled in local (WA) factories, whereas the QMC's and later QMD's carried complete cars. Photos indicate that the wagons were mainly used between Kalgoorlie and Perth and were often included on the Westland passenger train as well as freight trains. <br />
<br />
The narrow gauge car wagons were made redundant after the standard gauge trains started running right through to Perth, and some were converted to QMG long, bulkhead flat wagons between 1970 and 1973.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bkxTFCJWgJw/U40uOiu1MTI/AAAAAAAAA04/IFEcskQHvmQ/s1600/photo+(51).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bkxTFCJWgJw/U40uOiu1MTI/AAAAAAAAA04/IFEcskQHvmQ/s1600/photo+(51).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
At 70 feet (in the old measure), this series of wagons was the longest of all narrow gauge wagons. The <a href="http://westralia.uk/qmb_wagon.htm" target="_blank">WA Wagon Pages</a> have further information on the prototype wagons<br />
<br />
As no detailed drawings appear to have survived for these wagons, the QMC model is based on a simple outline drawing and photos, although detailed photos are also scarce. One of the few photos to show details of the wagon is in the <a href="http://westonlangford.com/media/photos/106549.jpg" target="_blank">Weston Langford collection</a> although this may actually be a QMD wagon which had fork lift pockets on the upper deck which consisted of four separate panels. A photo of the later QMG wagon confirmed the overall structure of the steel truss underframe. The outline drawing indicates there were only ever 2 QMC's but there were a maximum of 23 of the very similar QMD's in the late 1960's.<br />
<br />
Because of its length, the model is made in two sections as the standard 3D printers could not make it in one piece. When fitted with the recommended Steam Era Models passenger bogies (available from Railwest Models), it will negotiate curves down to 700 mm radius. Kadee long shank couplers are also recommended to allow sufficient coupler swing. The model does have considerable overhang, particularly on the inside of a curve, so increased clearances may be required for curved platforms and other structures.<br />
<br />
The model cars depicted in the photo by are Biante and DDA Collectibles. Despite being 1/64 scale, the model EH Holdens were about 0.5 mm too high to fit in the lower deck, so four of the DDA cars were "lowered" by dismantling them and cutting deeper slots in the plastic chassis for the axles. <br />
<!--
<br />
The expected price of the QMC wagon is $150, subject to exchange rate variations.<br />
--><br />
<br />
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: auto; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-23624870333096878042019-01-22T16:54:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:54:20.057+08:00FD 4-wheel Louvre Van<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4MoQEbAYpCM/UzeS2UryH5I/AAAAAAAAAvQ/KQJY5KOXqUs/s1600/FD.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4MoQEbAYpCM/UzeS2UryH5I/AAAAAAAAAvQ/KQJY5KOXqUs/s1600/FD.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">The FD vans were very common on the WAGR system, with a total of 1000 being built between 1953 and 1955. Most of the class remained in use until the 1980's. </span><span style="text-align: left;">Refer to the </span><a href="http://westralia.uk/fd_wagon.htm" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">WAGR Wagon Pages</a><span style="text-align: left;"> for more information on the prototype.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0p5bN5QIAMY/UzeSOeVBMtI/AAAAAAAAAvI/PHSTpw4RWLs/s1600/FD+times+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0p5bN5QIAMY/UzeSOeVBMtI/AAAAAAAAAvI/PHSTpw4RWLs/s1600/FD+times+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FD Models, unpainted and painted (except for the roof)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The model depicts the van in "as delivered" condition. Various modifications were carried out during the life of the FD vans and Marbelup Models may produced later versions if there is sufficient demand.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
The photo below, from <a href="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/" target="_blank">Rail Heritage WA</a>, shows an FD van in close to original condition.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8r5u9hcKfiw/VEDvzw4pxlI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/mBRUrzTuLdU/s1600/FD%2BRHWA%2BP08002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8r5u9hcKfiw/VEDvzw4pxlI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/mBRUrzTuLdU/s1600/FD%2BRHWA%2BP08002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The body of the FD has been printed in one piece. The print orientation has been chosen to optimise the definition of the louvres, which will result in some visible stepping on the roof, which can be smoothed off by scraping and/or sanding. As well, the modeller will be required to remove the support materials from the 3D printing process, and add various details such as handrails, from brass wire (not supplied) as well as W-irons, wheels and couplers. For more information, please refer to the <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/03/fd-van-construction-tips.html" target="_blank">Construction Tips</a>.<br />
<div>
<!--
<br />
The expected price will be about $85 subject to exchange rate variations.</div>
<div>
-->
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-35908108676347369922019-01-22T16:52:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:52:48.899+08:00DC 4-wheel Van<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6LVjMdw5DA/U1hpuzuWvcI/AAAAAAAAAxg/n_hsMk-26xI/s1600/photo+3+(12).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6LVjMdw5DA/U1hpuzuWvcI/AAAAAAAAAxg/n_hsMk-26xI/s1600/photo+3+(12).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Like the FD's, DC's were very common on the WAGR system, with over 700 being built between 1953 and 1954. Most of the class remained in use until the late 1980's, primarily carrying grain which was loaded and unloaded by roof hatches and end doors, respectively. </span><span style="text-align: left;">Refer to the </span><a href="http://westralia.uk/dc_wagon.htm" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">WAGR Wagon Pages</a><span style="text-align: left;"> for more information on the prototype.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aZ-5ha_TOI8/U1hoJuP4w9I/AAAAAAAAAxE/cQFdmkYAcpY/s1600/photo+2+(15).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aZ-5ha_TOI8/U1hoJuP4w9I/AAAAAAAAAxE/cQFdmkYAcpY/s1600/photo+2+(15).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bPuhezldRAI/U1hoJ8mZBqI/AAAAAAAAAxI/upFr3UuLp4M/s1600/photo+3+(11).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bPuhezldRAI/U1hoJ8mZBqI/AAAAAAAAAxI/upFr3UuLp4M/s1600/photo+3+(11).JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TBqS3jTODx0/U1hpcXhgOqI/AAAAAAAAAxY/Dd2PUJms0Pg/s1600/photo+1+(17).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TBqS3jTODx0/U1hpcXhgOqI/AAAAAAAAAxY/Dd2PUJms0Pg/s1600/photo+1+(17).JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0q6uhVtQz24/U1hrs9CbLXI/AAAAAAAAAxs/rWT5Z3_jM18/s1600/photo+2+(16).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0q6uhVtQz24/U1hrs9CbLXI/AAAAAAAAAxs/rWT5Z3_jM18/s1600/photo+2+(16).JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The model depicts the van in "as delivered" condition. An optional version is available with "flat" diagonal braces on the sides. <br />
<br />
Various other modifications were carried out during the life of the DC vans, including replacement of sections of timber paneling with plywood. Marbelup Models may produced later versions if there is sufficient demand.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
The photos below, from <a href="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/" target="_blank">Rail Heritage WA</a>, shows a DC van in close to original condition and one with the "flat" diagonal braces.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V90JcVJbq78/VEMc9hDmsrI/AAAAAAAAA-w/4813r9sJopk/s1600/DC%2BRHWA%2BP08000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V90JcVJbq78/VEMc9hDmsrI/AAAAAAAAA-w/4813r9sJopk/s1600/DC%2BRHWA%2BP08000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SRlb9rCPIaM/VEMeVZFjqsI/AAAAAAAAA-8/PincT7ovEHw/s1600/DC%2BFlat%2BBraces%2BP09142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SRlb9rCPIaM/VEMeVZFjqsI/AAAAAAAAA-8/PincT7ovEHw/s1600/DC%2BFlat%2BBraces%2BP09142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The body of the DC has been printed in two pieces, with a vertical join which is conveniently hidden by the roofwalk. The print orientation has been chosen to produce a smooth surface on the curved roof which will require minimal finishing. The modeller will be required to remove the support materials from the 3D printing process, and add various details such as handrails, from brass wire (not supplied) as well as W-irons, wheels and couplers.<br />
<br />
<div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DyohHYmflqI/U2ipnCX5EmI/AAAAAAAAAzI/eHQgI-EkQJU/s1600/DC+Roofwalk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="127" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DyohHYmflqI/U2ipnCX5EmI/AAAAAAAAAzI/eHQgI-EkQJU/s1600/DC+Roofwalk.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<!--
<br />
The expected price will be about $100 subject to exchange rate variations.
-->
<br />
The roofwalk for the DC has also been produced on its own, for use with kit or scratchbuilt DC models.<!-- The price is about $10 for two roofwalks, which are supplied attached to a thicker square bar for shipping as the roofwalk bars are quite thin.--></div>
<div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-87385378779311610072019-01-22T16:48:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:48:37.972+08:00CXB 4-wheel Sheep Wagon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GD7fBH2GZ3o/UYHIPXEC2BI/AAAAAAAAAN4/xKvJUktNG5Q/s1600/P5027764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GD7fBH2GZ3o/UYHIPXEC2BI/AAAAAAAAAN4/xKvJUktNG5Q/s1600/P5027764.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CXB Sheep Wagon after added detailing and painting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qYCkhr2A-qw/UX8wN-WV3rI/AAAAAAAAAMs/UIo1jHIkZ0Q/s1600/P4307746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qYCkhr2A-qw/UX8wN-WV3rI/AAAAAAAAAMs/UIo1jHIkZ0Q/s200/P4307746.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ISVWNHBXEuw/UX8wMIjdTcI/AAAAAAAAAMc/Bj9-tFqXTdo/s1600/P4307744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ISVWNHBXEuw/UX8wMIjdTcI/AAAAAAAAAMc/Bj9-tFqXTdo/s200/P4307744.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0QwzeuR9L7I/UX8wOrqjILI/AAAAAAAAAM0/KkArERaafus/s1600/R4307752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0QwzeuR9L7I/UX8wOrqjILI/AAAAAAAAAM0/KkArERaafus/s200/R4307752.jpg" width="161" /></a><br />
The 3D-printed model includes:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Floor detail include double floors on upper and lower decks</li>
<li>Roof including rain strips and downpipes</li>
<li>Detailed axleboxes and springs</li>
<li>Brake shoes and vacuum brake cylinder </li>
<li>Vacuum brake hoses</li>
<li>Brake lever</li>
<li>Shunter's step</li>
</ul>
<div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4LQa9sUsvb8/UX8wND2vDzI/AAAAAAAAAMk/6OeVCfRICnE/s1600/P4307749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4LQa9sUsvb8/UX8wND2vDzI/AAAAAAAAAMk/6OeVCfRICnE/s200/P4307749.JPG" width="200" /></a>Most of the photos show the model after detailing, but prior to painting. The grey parts are produced by the 3D printing process. As always, click on any of the photos to zoom in.<br />
<br />
To complete the model, the modeller will be required to add:</div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Wheels (12 mm diameter 4-hole or disc, 26 mm axle length)</li>
<li>Etched brass W-irons (available from Railwest models).</li>
<li>Brass bearings (e.g. North Yard 2 mm diameter, pinpoint)</li>
<li>Couplers and fixing screws (e.g. 2-56). Recommended couplers are Kadee #158 with #262 draft gear boxes. Note that the #242 draft gear boxes, supplied with the #158 couplers, have a different mounting hole location and are also too wide to clear the brake pipe. If preferred, Kadee #148 couplers can be used with the "full size" knuckle rather than the "scale" knuckle. Both the #148 and #158 are "Whisker" couplers.</li>
<li>Self tapping screws for fixing body and W-irons - 1 mm x 3 mm pan head, 6 required per wagon. (DCC Concepts DCS-PH103).</li>
<li>Brass wire (0.4 mm) for horizontal rods in body sides and doors, upper door guide rods, end handrails, and brake rod. 3 lengths are required per wagon.</li>
<li>Glue, paint, decals, etc.</li>
</ul>
</div>
The model consists of two unequal "halves", with a vertical join running end to end. This will allow access to the interior for painting and adding a <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2014/02/sheep-load-for-cxb-and-sxt.html">load of sheep</a>, if desired.<br />
<br />
The two sections are 3D-printed on their sides, which results in a good surface finish on the roof and outside surfaces.<br />
<br />
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
For help with assembly, see the <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/10/cxb-construction-tips.html" target="_blank">CXB Construction Tips</a>. For information on the prototype CXB's, see the <a href="http://westralia.uk/cxb_wagon.htm">WA Wagon Pages</a>.</div>
</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-75465863294515700862019-01-22T16:46:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:46:47.114+08:00RA Class Diesel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e3OqmFz4Q-s/U8Y3sJ6kvSI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/Whby_wqlvg0/s1600/RA+Render+Rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e3OqmFz4Q-s/U8Y3sJ6kvSI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/Whby_wqlvg0/s1600/RA+Render+Rear.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here you will find information on the 3D Printed parts designed by Marbelup Models which will allow a model railway enthusiast to build their own model of a WAGR RA class diesel in Sn3½ scale (i.e. 1/64 scale, 16.5 mm gauge).<br /><span style="line-height: 1.4;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Marbelup Models 3D-printed model of the RA class diesel is based on the existing design for the R class. These pictures represent a composite rendering of the RA loco. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SZ9I5o1SE7Q/U8Y3rftbBbI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/l_5xIj-p7nI/s1600/RA+Render+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SZ9I5o1SE7Q/U8Y3rftbBbI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/l_5xIj-p7nI/s1600/RA+Render+Front.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The RA is about 16 mm (in S scale) longer than the R class. The short hood is longer, as is the narrow section of the long hood immediately behind the cab. The fuel tank is also longer, and the RA does not have the dynamic brake grilles in the end and top of the long hood. The RA also has different headlights, with the twin lights being mounted side by side rather than vertically. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><!--The RA diesel is now available to order. The price for the 3D printed parts, i.e. body, chassis, bogie frames and fuel tank will be aprox. $325 (subject to exchange rate variations). -->The RA uses the same bogie mechanisms and motor as the R class, and these are available from Hollywood Foundry.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-3108918397148819239" itemprop="description articleBody" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.4; position: relative; width: 578px;">
<div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">
<div style="color: #333333; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.4;">All of the major parts for the RA class have been designed to be produced as 3D printed plastic parts, including:</span></div>
<div style="color: #333333;">
<div>
<ul style="line-height: 1.4; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;">
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Loco Body<!-- - $185*--></span></li>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Chassis<!-- - $115*--></span></li>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bogies<!-- - $50 per pair*--></span></li>
<li style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Fuel Tank<!-- - $40*--></span></li>
</ul>
</div>
<!--
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Total cost for above 3D-printed parts - $390*</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">* Costs are subject to exchange rate variations between AU$ and Euro.</span></div>
-->
<div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />The 3D printed parts have been designed based on plans and photographs of the RA class locomotives "as delivered" in 1971-72. As with many locomotives, various modifications were carried out over their life.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black; font-size: small; line-height: normal;">In addition to the 3D-printed parts, the modeller must obtain a number of other parts in order to complete the locomotive. Please refer to the </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/ra-loco-assembly-tips.html" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;" target="_blank">Assembly Tips</a><span style="color: black; font-size: small; line-height: normal;"> for a list of the parts required, and helpful tips.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="color: #333333; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-31089183971488192392019-01-22T16:43:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:43:47.246+08:00WAGR R Class Diesel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
</h2>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4hviLFOpD0I/Um4yvziefWI/AAAAAAAAAj0/Dk1Y_7R9h0Y/s1600/R+Class+LE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4hviLFOpD0I/Um4yvziefWI/AAAAAAAAAj0/Dk1Y_7R9h0Y/s1600/R+Class+LE.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo of assembled model with added details, painting and decals.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Here you will find information of the 3D Printed parts designed by Marbelup Models which will allow a model railway enthusiast to build their own model of a WAGR R class diesel in Sn3½ scale (i.e. 1/64 scale, 16.5 mm gauge).<br />
<br />
Marbelup Models has also developed 3D-printed model of the <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/ra-class-diesel.html" target="_blank">RA class diesel</a>. The RA is about 16 mm (in S scale) longer than the R class. The short hood is longer, as is the narrow section of the long hood immediately behind the cab. The fuel tank is also longer, and the RA does not have the dynamic brake grilles in the end and top of the long hood. The RA also has different headlights, with the twin lights being mounted side by side rather than vertically.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
All of the major parts for the R class have been designed to be produced as 3D printed plastic parts, including:</div>
<div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Loco Body<!-- - $180*--></li>
<li>Chassis<!-- - $95*--></li>
<li>Bogies<!-- - $50 per pair*--></li>
<li>Fuel Tank<!-- - $35*--></li>
</ul>
</div>
<!--
<div>
Total cost for above 3D-printed parts - $360*</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
* Costs are subject to exchange rate variations between AU$ and Euro.</div>
-->
<br />
<div>
<div>
The 3D printed parts have been designed based on plans and photographs of the R class locomotives "as delivered" in 1968. As with many locomotives, various modifications were carried out over their life.</div>
<br />
In addition to the 3D-printed parts, the modeller must obtain a number of other parts in order to complete the locomotive. Please refer to the <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/r-class-chassis-assembly-tips-and-tricks.html" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Assembly Tips</a> for a list of the parts required, and helpful tips.</div>
</div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
</ul>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comPerth WA, Australia-31.9530044 115.85746930000005-33.6771809 113.27568230000004 -30.228827900000002 118.43925630000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-67196287124393906282019-01-22T16:40:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:40:11.356+08:00D/DA Class Diesel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0Xb5yTmU5A/VJS1d-lTlhI/AAAAAAAABHs/gEbqpo6oe2s/s1600/DA%2Band%2BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_0Xb5yTmU5A/VJS1d-lTlhI/AAAAAAAABHs/gEbqpo6oe2s/s1600/DA%2Band%2BD.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DA (left) and D Class Test Models</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3CXmrbNsWtU/VHUoNUjiVsI/AAAAAAAABGA/eVYSXTIP1vE/s1600/D%2BTest1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3CXmrbNsWtU/VHUoNUjiVsI/AAAAAAAABGA/eVYSXTIP1vE/s1600/D%2BTest1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Test Print of D Class</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Marbelup Models has finished the 3D design for a WAGR/Westrail D class diesel. Test prints of all the 3D-printed parts have now arrived, and the test model has been assembled complete with Hollywood Foundry mechanism. The 3D design took approx 80 hours.<br />
<br />
Thanks to Gav and Rob for helping out with photos and other prototype information.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The 3D design for the DA has also been completed. The DA doesn't have dynamic brakes, so the short hood is fairly plain and also slightly lower. The fuel tank is also shorter. Test prints for the DA arrived on 19 December.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vr58EgzcZi4/VJS1d3k2M8I/AAAAAAAABHw/HWXbJ0bxDoA/s1600/DA%2Bon%2Bbridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vr58EgzcZi4/VJS1d3k2M8I/AAAAAAAABHw/HWXbJ0bxDoA/s1600/DA%2Bon%2Bbridge.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Test Print of DA Class</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jd4YaId-ecY/VGgIPVl-DtI/AAAAAAAABEA/trJi9yUdqhw/s1600/D%2BDA%2BFuel%2BTanks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="106" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jd4YaId-ecY/VGgIPVl-DtI/AAAAAAAABEA/trJi9yUdqhw/s1600/D%2BDA%2BFuel%2BTanks.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuel Tanks - DA (left) and D (right)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiqUaBXGfDM/VGgJQstu5LI/AAAAAAAABEM/ZnzT8kdXupY/s1600/D%2BFuel%2BTank%2BLead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiqUaBXGfDM/VGgJQstu5LI/AAAAAAAABEM/ZnzT8kdXupY/s1600/D%2BFuel%2BTank%2BLead.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">D Fuel Tank with 7 layers of lead sheet installed. 166 grams in total.<br />
Top 2 layers have a gap in the centre to clear the motor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7rRXL2tpwgg/VGW0ePLxY5I/AAAAAAAABCo/IsdhNokkxAk/s1600/D%2Bunderframe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7rRXL2tpwgg/VGW0ePLxY5I/AAAAAAAABCo/IsdhNokkxAk/s1600/D%2Bunderframe.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test prints of D Class underframe and fuel tank<br />
"Shop" bogies are dummies originally made for RA. "Motor" is also a dummy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The present models represents the D and DA class from delivery in 1971/1972 until the Westrail era. In the late Westrail era (late 1990's), some of the DA locos were rebuilt into DAZ class. Visible alterations included different cab windows, changes to various grilles on the body, and different brake cylinders on the bogies (on some locos). Marbelup Models plans to produce a DAZ version as well.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rSGIGtAP0NI/VGcTcvB3EyI/AAAAAAAABDo/J34T2sUqfOU/s1600/D%2BLoco%2BBogie%2BOrig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="122" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rSGIGtAP0NI/VGcTcvB3EyI/AAAAAAAABDo/J34T2sUqfOU/s1600/D%2BLoco%2BBogie%2BOrig.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bogie Rendering</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The D class uses a custom made drive mechanism from Hollywood Foundry. Hollywood Foundry don't have the correct size wheels (15.7 mm) in their normal range, but the wheels are available from Northyard in New Zealand. The minimum operating radius is 600 mm.<br />
<br />
For DCC sound, the underframe includes mounting for a speaker. The specific engine sound -EMD 645 Non-Turbo - is available in the Tsunami range of sound decoders from Soundtraxx.<br />
<br />
<!--
The price for the 3D printed parts, i.e. body, underframe, bogie frames and fuel tank will be approx. $390 (subject to exchange rate variations). The prices for individual parts are as follows:<br />
<br />
Body: $170, Underframe: $125, Fuel Tank: $30, Bogies (2): $65<br />
<br />
-->
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-20720986591303573182019-01-22T16:30:00.001+08:002023-10-23T14:27:26.509+08:00What's In the Works<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This page provides a sneak preview of projects currently in development or being contemplated.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
WAGR/Westrail XW Grain Hopper</h3>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q-nCU_HMU1o/Vfep_rkFwiI/AAAAAAAABcI/9z7G-OZR00U/s1600/XW%2BScreenshot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q-nCU_HMU1o/Vfep_rkFwiI/AAAAAAAABcI/9z7G-OZR00U/s320/XW%2BScreenshot.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The <a href="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/asmay2002/xw_wagon.htm" target="_blank">XW (and later variations)</a> were the most numerous grain hoppers on the WAGR/Westrail narrow gauge lines and were introduced in 1972.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Project Status:</b> Design is progressing for Sn3½ version only.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
WAGR QU Flat Wagon</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/archive_scans/albums/upload/print_P12201-P12400/P12222.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/archive_scans/albums/upload/print_P12201-P12400/P12222.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
The <a href="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/asmay2002/qu_wagon.htm" target="_blank">QU's</a> were the first "modern" flat wagon on the narrow gauge, dating from 1963. Unusually, they were painted black initially and then yellow.<br />
<br />
<b>Project Status:</b> Photos and measurements taken of stored wagons at Pemberton. 3D design not started.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: right;">
<span face=""arial" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: xx-small; text-align: center;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: center;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
</div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-41527448066745202442019-01-22T16:20:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:20:40.788+08:00BHP Iron Ore Cars HO Scale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OKlQGtjI9a8/Vkq8-gYJsKI/AAAAAAAABmg/dVZW8hGyphM/s1600/Ore%2BCar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OKlQGtjI9a8/Vkq8-gYJsKI/AAAAAAAABmg/dVZW8hGyphM/s320/Ore%2BCar.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Marbelup Models has developed HO scale 3D-printed models of 4 different types of ore cars as used by BHP Iron Ore in the Pilbara region of Western Australia. <br />
<br />
The 4 versions are:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>"Comeng" - built 1969-1982</li>
<li>"Goninans tapered floor" - built 1997-1998</li>
<li>"Goninans flat floor" - built 1999-2000</li>
<li>"Golynx" - built 2001-2003 approx.</li>
</ul>
<div>
The Comeng ore cars are very similar to the original Oroville cars imported from the US at the start of the Mt Newman Mining operation in the 1960's. For more information and photos of the prototype wagons, see the <a href="http://www.pilbararailways.com.au/bhp/wagons/waggons.php">Pilbara Railways web site</a>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5F2KKRN5QSI/Vkq9FixEjnI/AAAAAAAABmo/tkeDD7UTCF0/s1600/Comeng%2BRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5F2KKRN5QSI/Vkq9FixEjnI/AAAAAAAABmo/tkeDD7UTCF0/s320/Comeng%2BRender.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Comeng" ore car (computer rendering)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xz8QEIEJjjM/Vkq9FdQ1N-I/AAAAAAAABmk/msuOa5ukbcQ/s1600/Goninans%2BTapered%2BFloor%2BRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xz8QEIEJjjM/Vkq9FdQ1N-I/AAAAAAAABmk/msuOa5ukbcQ/s320/Goninans%2BTapered%2BFloor%2BRender.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Goninans tapered floor" ore car (computer rendering)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
All of the ore cars are supplied as "body only", the only other parts included are Kadee #262 coupler boxes. The modeller must supply and fit bogies and couplers, as well as detail items such as brake wheel, air hoses, handrails, etc. The level of detail is optional, to some extent, depending on the modeller's preferences.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The models accept Kadee #148 or #158 whisker couplers. These are available from Hobby shops in bulk packs of couplers only, in addition to the usual packs of 2-pairs of couplers with boxes.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
As an option, the models will also accept Glatzl rotary couplers (at one end) which are available from the US through Sergent Engineering. Sergent also sell matching dummy couplers which work well with the Glatzl rotary couplers. Both the Glatzl rotary and dummy couplers will mate with Kadee "scale head" couplers but will not couple or uncouple automatically. A simple modification is required to the Glatzl rotary couplers prior to installation, as they intended to directly fit onto a specific US coal car which has different dimensions to the BHP ore cars.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QnEoKUOQGew/Vkq7j1ntjBI/AAAAAAAABmU/s79LhO-UMMo/s1600/GL%2Bplus%2BGonFlat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QnEoKUOQGew/Vkq7j1ntjBI/AAAAAAAABmU/s79LhO-UMMo/s400/GL%2Bplus%2BGonFlat.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left: "Goninans flat floor" in Polyamide material. Right: "Golynx" car in Prime Grey material. (Click on any photo to see enlarged version.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<!--
<div>
The BHP ore cars are available in two different 3D-printed materials: Polyamide and Prime Gray. The Polyamide material is about half the price of Prime Gray and has a slightly rough surface texture. Costs for the ore cars are as follows:</div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Polyamide material: $25 each for minimum quantity of 5.</li>
<li>Prime Gray material: $55 each, no minimum quantity</li>
<li>Prime Gray material: $50 each, minimum quantity of 5.</li>
</ul>
<div>
All price are subject to change depending on variations on the exchange rate with the Euro.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Refer to the "<a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/marbelup-models-how-to-order.html">How to Order</a>" page for information on ordering and postage (if required). These models require a 50% deposit at time of ordering.</div>
<div>
-->
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-48626690638692839962019-01-22T16:15:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:17:44.353+08:00WW Wheat Wagon (Standard Gauge, HO Scale)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fVpQN91wR_M/VkVi0T50kMI/AAAAAAAABi4/NpDnodYQCNM/s1600/WW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fVpQN91wR_M/VkVi0T50kMI/AAAAAAAABi4/NpDnodYQCNM/s320/WW.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo of test model.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">The WAGR/Westrail WW standard gauge wheat wagon entered service in 1966 and formed the mainstay of the standard gauge grain fleet for over 45 years until Cooperative Bulk Handling introduced their own locomotives and rollingstock in 2012. They were affectionately known as "Willie Weeties". </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">The Marbelup Models WW consists of a 1-piece 3D-printed body and an etched brass roofwalk which incorporate the ladders and handrails as a "fold-up" assembly (no soldering required). Additional etched brass parts are also included for the corner steps and brake wheel.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wWhrY9jfsyo/VkVi9ZEb39I/AAAAAAAABjA/2KuT80QwNOY/s1600/WW%2Band%2BL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="113" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wWhrY9jfsyo/VkVi9ZEb39I/AAAAAAAABjA/2KuT80QwNOY/s320/WW%2Band%2BL.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WW with L class (loco by Haskell Models)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">For prototype information, please refer to the <a href="http://westralia.uk/ww_wagon.htm">WA Wagon Pages</a>.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">The later version with air-operated roof hatch and no roofwalks, i.e. the AGWY and AGSY, has also been produced. The difference between the prototype AGWY and AGSY relates to improved seals on the discharge hatches (AGSY) to allow use with canola, which is finer than other grains. The model can represent either version. Some WW's also had the improved seals fitted and were coded WWS.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yYo6suxpwVc/Vl_d4UUp5SI/AAAAAAAABos/zWOiw_-9W00/s1600/AGWY%2BA%2BEnd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yYo6suxpwVc/Vl_d4UUp5SI/AAAAAAAABos/zWOiw_-9W00/s320/AGWY%2BA%2BEnd.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The AGWY/AGSY has an extra air cylinder on the end opposite the brake wheel, in connection with the air-operated roof hatch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wd3rH6XDiyk/Vl_d6Ez7-NI/AAAAAAAABpA/QiX1mMtMZL0/s1600/AGWY%2BB%2BSide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wd3rH6XDiyk/Vl_d6Ez7-NI/AAAAAAAABpA/QiX1mMtMZL0/s320/AGWY%2BB%2BSide.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side of AGWY/AGSY showing runners for air-operated roof hatch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhvS--TvFKY/Vl_d4OU5AZI/AAAAAAAABok/xYbDciAta0k/s1600/AGWY%2BA%2BSide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhvS--TvFKY/Vl_d4OU5AZI/AAAAAAAABok/xYbDciAta0k/s320/AGWY%2BA%2BSide.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Opposite side of AGWY/AGSY.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vt_m1m9MLWk/Vl_d4EWSnfI/AAAAAAAABoo/HE_vCTSKEp8/s1600/AGWY%2BB%2BEnd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vt_m1m9MLWk/Vl_d4EWSnfI/AAAAAAAABoo/HE_vCTSKEp8/s320/AGWY%2BB%2BEnd.jpg" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail on brake wheel end of AGWY/AGSY.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<!--
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Both the WW and AGWY/AGSY are available to order now. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Expected selling prices for the body-only "kit" (including etched parts and Kadee #262 coupler boxes) are $80 for WW and $80 for AGWY plus postage if required. (Prices are subject to variation due to changes in the Euro exchange rate.)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">The modeller must separately obtain parts to complete the model including bogies, couplers, brass wire, paint and decals. Suitable bogies are available from Kadee (<a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page569.htm" target="_blank">#569</a> or #<a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page1569.htm" target="_blank">1569</a>). Detailed <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/2015/11/ww-assembly-tips.html">instructions</a> including list of parts required are now available online. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Marbelup Models has ordered some suitable bogies and these will be available, together with couplers, air hoses, brass wire and fixing screws, as a "parts kit", containing all the extra parts necessary to produce a running model. Quantities are limited. Glue, paint and decals not included. Two types of "parts kit" will be available:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12.8px;">"Premium Parts Kit" including Kadee #569 bogies, and parts as listed above: $25 per wagon.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12.8px;">"Quality Parts Kit" including Tichy #3009 bogies, Intermountain metal wheelsets, and parts listed above: $15 per wagon.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12.8px;">The Kadee bogies are from HGC plastic, and are a 2-piece design which provides compensation over uneven track. They are are also self-centering, an aid to placing wagons on the track. Kadee wheelsets have black metal wheels on a plastic (Delrin) axles.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12.8px;">The Tichy bogies are 1-piece moulded in plastic. Intermountain wheelsets have brass wheels and axles, with a weathered finish.</span></span><br />
-->
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; text-decoration: none;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-67318615543172083842019-01-22T16:12:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:12:46.177+08:00WSH/XM Ballast Hopper<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bkgDVDFrwzw/VbiQM-XlZyI/AAAAAAAABWo/4c0zMVwFxgM/s1600/P7288082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bkgDVDFrwzw/VbiQM-XlZyI/AAAAAAAABWo/4c0zMVwFxgM/s320/P7288082.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unpainted test model of WSH ballast hopper in HO scale. <br />
Added details from brass wire, etc.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The WSH ballast hoppers were built in 1965 and were used on construction of the WAGR standard gauge lines. Initially, all 45 wagons were standard gauge.<br />
<br />
In 1970, 15 of the wagons were converted to narrow gauge and reclassified as XM, and are still in use in WA on the narrow gauge system.<br />
<br />
In 1975/6, all of the remaining 30 WSH's were sold to Commonwealth Railways (later Australian National) and reclassified as <a href="http://www.comrails.com/pic_cd/cd_p0104826.html" target="_blank">AHVY</a>. <br />
<br />
From around 1987, most of the AHVY wagons were transferred to Tasmania, converted to narrow gauge and reclassified ZI, later being fitted with extended sides and roof and becoming class <a href="http://www.railtasmania.com/rollingstock/1308_hd5.jpg" target="_blank">HD</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yXl_yQX-vao/VbiQTIfInuI/AAAAAAAABXE/ibNwzfQxgBo/s1600/P7288096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yXl_yQX-vao/VbiQTIfInuI/AAAAAAAABXE/ibNwzfQxgBo/s320/P7288096.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unpainted test model of XM ballast hopper in Sn3½ scale. <br />
(No added details at this stage.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Please refer to the <a href="http://westralia.uk/wsh_wagon.htm" target="_blank">WA Wagon Pages</a> for more information on the prototype <a href="http://westralia.uk/wsh_wagon.htm">WSH</a> or <a href="http://westralia.uk/xm_wagon.htm">XM</a> wagons. There are also several photos at the <a href="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/archive_scans/index.php" target="_blank">Rail Heritage WA web site</a>. Hint: Search for "WSH" or "XM" under "loco - vehicle class". <br />
<br />
There are quite a few photos of WSM's on the <a href="http://www.westonlangford.com/search/?q=ballast&country=AU&state=Western+Australia" target="_blank">Weston Langford site</a> (The link provided should search for "ballast" in Western Australia.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.westonlangford.com/media/photos/106590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.westonlangford.com/media/photos/106590.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo of WSH in almost pristine condition at work on construction of the WAGR <br />
standard gauge project in November 1965. (From Weston Langford collection)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For details of history under CR/AN ownership see the <a href="http://www.comrails.com/tims/rs_wahv.html" target="_blank">Comrails</a> and <a href="http://www.railtasmania.com/rollingstock/current_stored.htm" target="_blank">Rail Tasmania</a> web sites.<br />
<br />
The Marbelup Models "kit" for the WSH/XM consists of a one-piece 3D-printed body. Some cleanup will probably be required to remove the support structures which are required during the 3D printing process. Typically, this takes about 30 minutes. The purchaser must also obtain, separately, bogies, couplers, fixing screws, brass wire (for details such as handrails), paint and decals. Styrene strip is also required for the braces across the top of the hopper.<br />
<br />
For more information, please refer to the <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wshxm-ballast-wagon-instructions.html" target="_blank">assembly tips</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5fqSvmAYAvA/VbiQNNN5WkI/AAAAAAAABW4/a6EfC3-do_I/s1600/P7288087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5fqSvmAYAvA/VbiQNNN5WkI/AAAAAAAABW4/a6EfC3-do_I/s320/P7288087.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of WSH model showing added details (HO scale)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The WAGR conversion to narrow gauge was unusual in that the standard gauge bogies were retained and simply fitted with narrow gauge wheelsets, resulting in a "wide" look to the bogies. Double sets of brake blocks were fitted to facilitate rapid gauge conversion if required. The couplers also remained at the standard gauge height, so a special "gooseneck" coupler shank was fitted to the end wagons in a rake to couple to other narrow gauge wagons.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k1Gq52l_6KA/VbiQT4TsO1I/AAAAAAAABXM/qNtsemc9wbc/s1600/P7288097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k1Gq52l_6KA/VbiQT4TsO1I/AAAAAAAABXM/qNtsemc9wbc/s320/P7288097.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">XM model in Sn3½ scale with 3D-printed bogies.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/archive_scans/albums/upload/print_P09201-P09400/P09287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.railheritagewa.org.au/archive_scans/albums/upload/print_P09201-P09400/P09287.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rail Heritage WA photo of XM hoppers, showing they didn't always operate as a solid consist.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To obtain the correct bogie appearance for the XM Sn3½ model, Marbelup Models has designed 3D-printed bogies representing the original standard gauge bogies. Larger than normal, 14 mm diameter, wheelsets to suit are available from Hollywood Foundry.<br />
<br />
The "special" bogies are not required for the Tasmanian ZI version, as conventional narrow gauge bogies were used and the wagons were "lowered" to match the coupler height of other narrow gauge wagons.<br />
<br />
<!--
These models are available to order now. The approx. costs are:<br />
<ul>
<li>WSH/AHVY/ZI HO Scale: $50.</li>
<li>XM/ZI Sn3½ Scale: $105.</li>
<li>Bogies to suit XM Sn3½ Scale: $40 per pair (not including bearings or wheels).</li>
</ul>
As always, prices are subject to change based on exchange rates with the Euro, so please contact us to confirm pricing before placing an order.<br />
<br />
-->
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to </span><a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="background-color: white; color: #6699cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; text-decoration: none;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2980786943725231095.post-67525511550167934762019-01-22T16:09:00.000+08:002019-01-22T16:09:49.838+08:00WOB Iron Ore Wagon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
WOB Iron Ore Wagon (Standard Gauge, HO Scale)</h3>
<div class="post-header" style="background-color: white; color: #999999; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5px; line-height: 1.6; margin: 0px 0px 1.5em;">
<div class="post-header-line-1">
</div>
</div>
<div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-7043669068844968151" itemprop="description articleBody" style="background-color: white; position: relative; width: 578px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HLJJeqk2ckw/VTmi5BjsqyI/AAAAAAAABQw/r6klmfM_bSk/s1600/WOB%2BBrake%2BWheel%2BSide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="106" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HLJJeqk2ckw/VTmi5BjsqyI/AAAAAAAABQw/r6klmfM_bSk/s1600/WOB%2BBrake%2BWheel%2BSide.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gWlHaTQhyMo/VTmi4-sqoQI/AAAAAAAABQ0/S8C6Bnb9LSs/s1600/WOB%2BLadder%2BSide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gWlHaTQhyMo/VTmi4-sqoQI/AAAAAAAABQ0/S8C6Bnb9LSs/s1600/WOB%2BLadder%2BSide.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">The 25 WOB iron ore wagons entered service in 1974. WAGR obtained the wagons, which were brand new and built by Comeng for Mt Newman Mining Company (now BHP Iron Ore) to replace a number of the existing WO and WOA wagons which were damaged in derailments. As built, the wagons were considerably higher and were cut down at Midland Workshops to be compatible with the other WAGR standard gauge iron ore wagons. For more information on the prototype, refer to the </span><a href="http://westralia.uk/wob_wagon.htm" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">WA Wagon Pages</a><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-58KIuJjgW0E/Vvip_m3wSgI/AAAAAAAABv0/syoRRRdL41kXR58PeqQ82nz-19vUewTaw/s1600/IMG_4825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-58KIuJjgW0E/Vvip_m3wSgI/AAAAAAAABv0/syoRRRdL41kXR58PeqQ82nz-19vUewTaw/s320/IMG_4825.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This WAGR publicity photo shows the entire fleet of 25 WOB's when brand new. The photo is on display at the Rail Heritage WA museum but not available on their web site.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">The WOB's were originally used to carry iron ore from Koolyanobbing to Kwinana, this iron ore traffic being the principal economic justification for the WAGR standard gauge rail project of the late 1960's. Most, if not all, of the WOB's are still in service but the iron ore from Koolyanobbing is now railed to Esperance and exported from there.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.pilbararailways.com.au/gallery/albums/Inter_Scans/WA_SG_Ironore_waggons/060528_4582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.pilbararailways.com.au/gallery/albums/Inter_Scans/WA_SG_Ironore_waggons/060528_4582.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many photos of WOB's at pilbararailways.com.au</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
In 1977/8, fifteen of the wagons were converted to WSM ballast hoppers which involved fitting bottom discharge doors, internal slope sheets and welding on part of the tops which had been previously cut off. Approx. 20 years later, the ones converted to ballast hoppers were converted back to iron ore wagons, although the converted wagons retain some remnants of the bottom discharge doors and have a different arrangement of air brake cylinders compared to the 10 unconverted wagons. <span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">The model depicts the unconverted version. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
The Marbelup Models WOB wagon consists of a 1-piece 3D-printed body. To complete the model, the purchaser must add bogies, couplers, and some small detail items. The model is designed to accommodate Kadee HO whisker couplers (in <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page262.htm" target="_blank">#262 draft gear boxes</a>) but one end can also be fitted with a rotary coupler, as per the prototype, to allow the possibility of unloading using a rotary car dumper (tippler). HO scale rotary couplers are made by Glatzl and are available from <a href="http://www.sergentengineering.com/Rotary_frame.htm" target="_blank">Sergent Engineering</a> in the USA, together with matching dummy couplers.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The bogies shown in the model photos are from Kadee, part number <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page569.htm" target="_blank">#569</a>. These bogies are made from a high-density plastic and weigh almost as much as metal bogies, thus adding some weight to the wagon. Kadee also offer <a href="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page1569.htm" target="_blank">#1569</a> bogies which are identical apart from being fitted with finer Code 88 wheelsets.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;" trbidi="on">
The following is a list of parts required to complete the WOB wagon:</div>
<div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">1 pair Kadee #569 or #1569 bogies</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">2 x Kadee Whisker couplers e.g. #148 (standard head) or #158 (scale head)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">2 x Kadee #262 draft gear boxes (20 per pack)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">2 x Detail Associates #6206 air hoses (6 per pack)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">1 x Handbrake wheel - e.g. Model etch ME7 or ME47</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">Handrail and uncoupling lever - formed from 0.4 mm brass wire</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">Paint and decals</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">Fixing screws for couplers and bogies e.g. 2-56.</span></span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">For rotary coupler operation, the following parts are needed instead of the Kadee couplers listed above:</span></span></div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">1 x <span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">Glatzl </span>rotary coupler <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_2015231605"></span>GLTZR<span id="goog_2015231606"></span></a> (available in packs of 3 from Sergent Engineering)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">1 x <span style="font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">Glatzl </span>dummy (economy) coupler GLTZ (</span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">(available in packs of 3 from Sergent Engineering)</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">1 x </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 20.7900009155273px;">Kadee #262 draft gear box</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
<!--
<div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.8500003814697px; line-height: 1.4;">The expected selling price of the WOB iron ore wagon in HO scale is $45, subject to exchange rate variations with the Euro.</span></div>
-->
<div style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: center; widows: auto;">
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Back to <a href="http://marbelupmodels.blogspot.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">Marbelup Models Home Page</a></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com