WBC Guards Van Construction Tips

The WBC guards van is printed in two sections, representing approx one-third and two-thirds of the van.

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from both parts of the guard's van.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to carefully cut the supports away from the roof, ends, and the underframe.  Take particular care around the steps, gas cylinders and the brake gear underneath the floor.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over both parts and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake gear.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.

Additional "guards" have been printed, as shown below, to protect the side and end steps during production and shipping.  Once all supports have been removed around the steps, these guards can be cut away from the floor of the van.  Altnernatively, you may wish to leave these guards in place until most of the other work on the van has been completed.  Note that there is also a guard behind the dividing bar on the large, rectangular window.

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports which will be visible after assembly.

When finished, test fit the two halves together but do not glue them together until the glazing has been prepared.

Window Glazing

Each side of the WBC has guides adjacent to the windows to secure glazing material and slots in the floor which allow the glazing to be inserted after the model is painted.

However, the glazing must be prepared and test-fitted before the two halves of the body are glued together.  Each piece of glazing is identified by means of lettering on the underside of floor L1-L5, R1-R5.

WBC Glazing Right Side (Left Side is the same)

The glazing material (i.e. 0.25 mm clear styrene) should be cut into strips approx 50 mm long and test fitted into slots and guides.  The widths of the strips are as follows:

R1, R5, L1, L5: 9.75 mm (4 required)

R2, R3, L2, L3: 8.25 mm (4 required)

R4, L4: 12.75 mm (2 required)

Ensure that the slots in the floor for each piece of glazing are free of obstructions, e.g. supports from the 3D printing process.  If necessary, clear the slots using a very fine knife blade until the glazing strips can be inserted from below the floor.

Test fit the glazing strips into the guides either side of the windows.  If necessary, clear out the grooves in the guide using a very fine knife.  Another possible technique is to use a scrap piece of 0.25 mm brass as a tool by inserting it into the slots in the floor.

Once satisfied with the fit of each glazing strip, mark each strip where it won't be visible later with the appropriate position code, i.e. L1-L5, R1-R5 and set it aside.  The strips can be trimmed to length now or later, at the time of final installation.

Body Assembly 

Once the window glazing has been prepared and marked for later installation, the two body sections can be glued together, e.g. with superglue.  Some filling and sanding will be required at the join, particularly on the roof.  The join on the ends is disguised by the vertical ribs.  Tamiya plastic putty works well as a filling material.

When filling and sanding the roof, be careful not to damage the raised ventilator on the roof.  If damaged, a "spare" has been printed within the centre sill on the underframe which can be installed in place of the damaged one.

Fixing Holes

The fixing holes for the couplers and bogies are intended for 2-56 (or 8BA) screws.  The holes  should accept screws without tapping.  If the screws seem particularly tight, drill through with a 1.8 mm drill bit.

Bogies

The Marbelup Models WBC bogies are printed in two identical halves.  A set contains four pieces to make one pair of bogies.  As with other 3D printed parts, the first step is to removed the support structure and clean up the small supports in the holes in the bogie sideframes, around the springs, etc.

The bolster section of each bogie half contains two holes intended for 1.5 x 6 mm self-tapping screws (which are supplied with the bogies).  The larger hole nearest the narrow end of the bolster is a "clearance" hole and should be cleaned out with a 1.5 mm drill.  The smaller hole, nearest the bogie sideframe, should cleaned out with a 1.2 mm drill.  Carefully drive a self-tapping screw into each of the 1.2 mm holes to form the thread.  If it feels tight, back the screw out a bit before continuing.

The bogie sideframes contain holes for fitting brass pinpoint bearings (available from Railwest Models).  These holes should be cleaned out with a 2 mm drill bit, after which the bearings should press fit into place.  The bogies are designed for 10.5 mm disc wheels with 25 mm axles.  Suitable wheels are available from various suppliers, including Steam Era Models (Part No. WH5).  SEM retailers include End of the Line Hobbies in Victor Harbour, SA, Casula Hobbies in Sydney and Train World in Melbourne.

After assembly, clean out the centre pivot hole with a 2.2 mm drill bit to suit 2-56 mounting screws.  (2.2 mm provides adequate clearance without excessive slop.)

Couplers

The WBC is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.  Because the #262 draft gear boxes are a bit hard to obtain, Marbelup Models now supplies these free of charge with each model that requires them.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the various handrails, which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The starter holes will need to be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit in a pin vice.

Handrail Locations

The approx. dimensions for bending each handrail are as follows:

End Handrails: 10.5 mm between hole centres.  4 required each end.

Door Handrails: 16 mm between hole centres.  4 required each side.  Note that these holes are at an angle of approx. 45 degrees, when view from the top of the van.

Door Handles: 1.75 mm between hole centres.  2 required each side.

Roof Handrails: 5 mm between hole centres.  4 required.

Handrails should be fixed in place with superglue.

Brake Rods

There are 5 brake rods which should also be formed from 0.4 mm wire, and the starter holes drilled out with a 0.45 mm drill bit.

Brake Rod Locations

Approx lengths are as follows:

Long brake rod: 33 mm not including right angle bend (approx. 1 mm) at one end.

Medium brake rod: 22 mm not including right angle bend (approx. 1 mm) at one end.

Handbrake rod (near gas cylinders): 10.8 mm not including right angle bends (approx. 1 mm) at both ends.

Brake Lever Rods (near brake cylinder): 11.7 mm and 12.4 mm not including right angle bends (approx. 1 mm) at both ends.

Air Brake Hoses

Small starter holes are provided next to the couplers on each end of the van for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter holes to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.  A suggested drill size is 0.65 mm.

Uncoupling Levers

A spiggot with a vertical fixing hole has been provided underneath the van, next to the coupler, as well as a notched bracket towards the left side of the van, when view from the end.  The uncoupling lever can be shaped from 0.4 mm brass wire, with a 90 degree bend for attachment into the central fixing hole.

The diagram below shows the approximate shape to aim for, but feel free to adjust the measurements to suit your model.

After positioning the uncoupling levers, check that the coupler can swing freely and is not obstructed.  After fixing the uncoupling levers in place, it should still be possible to remove the coupler and draught gear box, e.g. for painting, by sliding it out towards the end of the van.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe, where it would not be seen in normal operation.  Weight can also be fixed inside the van prior to assembling the two parts, but it should be securely fixed in place (e.g. screwed) to ensure it doesn't come loose.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.

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Clerestory Roof Z Van Construction Tips

The clerestory roof Z van is printed in two sections, representing approx one-third and two-thirds of the van.  Versions are available with end platforms at one or both ends.  These instructions apply to both versions.

At this stage, the Sn3½ and4 mm scale version of the van have been produced.

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from both parts of the guard's van.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife  carefully cut the supports away from the roof, ends, and the underframe.  Take particular care around the running boards, brake hoses, handbrake pillars and the brake gear underneath the floor.

Because of the ribbing on the brake hoses, the 3D printer's automatic software has generated many support points, which may have merged into one.  Carefully cut between the brake hose and the support structure, using repeated cuts with a sharp knife (e.g. Olfa snap-off blade type), to separate the support structure, then carefully trim the remnants from the hose.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over both parts and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake rigging.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.

Additional "guards" have been printed, as shown below, to protect the steps during production and shipping.  Once all supports have been removed around the steps, these guards can be cut away from the floor of the van.

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, especially on the edge of the roof on the open side of the main body section.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.  Be sure to clean up remnants of supports on the clerestory roof windows on the open side of the larger section, as these will be difficult to get to once the two sections are joined.

When finished, test fit the two halves together.  Interlock the square pins on the larger section with the square holes on the smaller section. The square pins will each have a "bump" from the supports on the end, so carefully trim these away.

It may be necessary to sand the edge of the roof of the smaller section where if fits under the clerestory roof on the larger section.

When satisfied with the fit, glue the two sections together, e.g. with super glue.  (Note:  If intending to add weight inside the van (See below.), do it now before gluing the sections together.) It may be necessary to lightly clamp the ends of the roof while gluing to get a tight fit.  To get a smooth finish at the join, particularly on the roof, some filling and sanding will be required.  Tamiya plastic putty works well for the filling.

Tapping Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies are intended for 2-56 (or 8BA) screws.  The bogie mounting holes should accept screws without tapping.

Note for 4 mm scale version: Because of the thinness of the floor where the couplers are mounted, the holes should be drilled through with a 1.8 mm drill in a pin vice, and tapped.

Note:  Tapping the holes is preferable to using self-tapping screws which may fracture the material.  Although fairly robust, the material is more brittle than styrene or polyurethane.  

Bogies

Sn3½ version:  Correct bogies are available in kit form from NorthYard in New Zealand - Part No. B1656.  Wheels are included.

4 mm scale version: The VR TT30 bogies from Steam Era Models are a reasonable substitute.  Each bogie fixing on the guards can include two ridges which may need to be ground away to allow the van to sit at the correct height.  The ridges add 0.5 mm to the height.

Couplers

The ZBA is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the van centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Truss Rods

The truss rods can be formed from brass wire.

4 mm Scale Version: From a length of 0.5 or 0.6 mm wire,  64 mm long, form a 18° bend 19 mm in from each end, to leave a horizontal section 26 mm long.

S Scale Version: From a length of 0.8 mm wire, 78 mm long, form a 18° bend 23 mm in from each end, to leave a horizontal section 32 mm long.

The truss rods should fit in the recesses in the bottom of the queen posts and in the grooves provided on the inside of the sideframe members.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the various handrails, which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The starter holes will need to be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit in a pin vice.

Handrail Locations

The long handrails on each side curve down at the ends, and starter holes have been provided in the corners of the body, which are angled at 45º to the sides and ends.  Turned brass handrail knobs are available in various lengths (e.g. from Markits), to allow for the thickness of the doors (0.8 mm), so that the handrails remain parallel to the sides.  Note that there should be a gap in the handrail on the opening side of the door (closest to the guard's lookout).

The starter holes for the vertical railings at the end go right through the end beams. Take care when drilling these out to keep the hole vertical.  The vertical railings can be inserted from above into the holes in the end beams, then pushed up into the holes in the end of the roof.  If replicating the horizontal rails at the ends, these can be soldered between the vertical railing prior to installation.

4 mm Scale Version:  The horizontal rail should be 12.7 mm above the floor level.  The vertical railings should be 8.5 mm apart (centre to centre).

S Scale Version:  The horizontal rail should be 12.7 mm above the floor level.  The vertical railings should be 8.5 mm apart (centre to centre).

Brake Stands 

The brake stands should have an L-shaped handle, as per the diagram below.  One option is to simply bend a piece of 0.4 mm brass wire and glue it to the top of the brake stand.

A slightly more complex option is to solder a vertical wire to the L-shaped handle, for fixing into the brake stand.  If using this option, the inside of the brake stand is hollow but the upper section would need to be drilled out (0.45 mm) from below to accommodate the vertical wire.

4 mm Scale:  The horizontal part of the handle should be approx. 6.3 mm long and the vertical part approx. 1.8 mm.

S Scale:  The horizontal part of the handle should be approx. 7 mm long and the vertical part approx. 2 mm.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added inside the van or, alternatively, by gluing lead shot or sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe, where it would not be seen in normal operation.  If adding weight inside the van, ensure it is fixed securely (e.g. screwed) so that it can't come loose at a later time, and that the weight is symmetrical about the longitudinal centre line of the van..

For the S scale model, the desired weight is about 95 grams.  (Refer to Sn3½ blog article.)  Using the suggested North Yard bogies, the weight of the van is about 68 grams, so about 27 grams if additional weight is required.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  

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WF/WFW/WFDY Assembly Tips

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from the wagon.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to cut the supports away from visible areas.  Take particular care around the steps.  Note that the steps have guards below them to protect them during production and shipping.  It is suggested to leave these guards in place until the majority of the finishing work on the wagon has been completed, to minimise the risk of damage during handling.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over the wagon and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another including, for example, inside the coupler housing.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.  

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, expecially in the visible areas.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.

Stiffening Rods (Optional)

The WF model includes provision for two metal rods to be inserted within the underframe structure to provide stiffness and guard against possible future warping of the plastic material over time.  Each of the transverse frame members includes two holes approx. 2.2 mm diameter, as part of the 3D print.  The metal rods also add a bit of weight to the wagon.

Location of Stiffening Rods

On the end sill, the hole for the stiffening rod is covered over by a 0.5 mm layer of plastic, opposite the handbrake assembly, as pictured below.  This can easily be drilled through for installation of the rod.  There is a corresponding hole on the diagonally opposite corner of the wagon.

Location of Hole for Stiffening Rod

The rods should be a maximum of 2 mm diameter and 188 mm long.  They can be of any strong metal, e.g. steel or brass.  One source of steel rod is threaded push-rods sold for radio controlled models by manufacturers such as Du-Bro, and available from many hobby shops.  These have a threaded section at one end, but the remainder of the rod is plain, about 1.85 mm diameter. Different lengths are available, e.g. Du-Bro #172 and #173.  Longer lengths are better as several pieces can be cut from it with less wastage.

Once the rod has been glued into position, the hole in the end sill can be filled with modelling putty and lightly sanded to restore the flat surface prior to painting.

Bogie and Coupler Mounting Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies have been printed at 1.8 mm diameter to suit 2-56 screws.  

Due to the difficulty of tapping the blind holes for the bogies, the 3D print includes vertical grooves in the sides of the holes to help the screws cut their own threads, so tapping the holes is not required nor recommended.  Note that the depth of the blind holes is 4.4 mm.  If using Kadee bogies, the supplied screws may need trimming to avoid damaging the floor of the wagon.

The maximum length for the coupler fixing screws is 4 mm.

Note: An economical source of 2-56 screws in various lengths is Little Bird Electronics.

Bogies

The suggested bogies are Kadee #569 or #1569, the only difference being the width of the wheels.  Both Atlas and Athearn make similar bogies, but the advantage of the Kadee ones is that they add some weight to the wagon due to the use of a relatively heavy plastic material.

Couplers

The WMC/WMD is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes, which are available separately, are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the wagon centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Because of the deep end sill on the WF series of wagons, the model has been designed so the coupler and draft gear box slides into a recess via a hole in the end sill.  Make sure that any remnants of support structure from the 3D printing process have been cleaned up from inside the coupler mounting recess.

The draft gear box will probably be a snug fit inside the mounting recess.  A hole had been provided for a 2-56 fixing screw to prevent the coupler from being pulled out.  Note that the maximum length of the screw is 4 mm, so it is likely the screw will have to be cut to length.  Provided a metal screw is first used to create a thread in the provided hole, a nylon screw (e.g. Kadee #256) can be used for the permanent fixing.  A nylon screw is much easier to cut to the desired length.

Note that the height from rail level to the top of coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the square-shaped handrail near the handbrake at each end of the wagon..  The handrail can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The holes should be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit.  The diagram below indicates the dimensions for bending the wire handrail.

Ratchet Handbrake Lever

A short length, approx. 7.5 mm, of 0.4 mm brass wire can be used to simulate the lever of the ratchet handbrake on the end of the wagon.  Glue the wire into the vertical groove in the handbrake assembly.  The top of the wire should be level with the top of the groove, with the remainder of the wire projecting downwards.

Air Brake Hoses

Small brackets are provided next to the couplers on each end of the wagon for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter hole provided in the supporting bracket to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.  A suggested drill size is 0.65 mm.

Uncoupling Levers

A small starter hole has been provided underneath the coupler, as well as a notched bracket towards the left side of the wagon, when view from the end.  The uncoupling lever can be shaped from 0.4 mm brass wire, with a 90 degree bend for attachment into the central fixing hole.   The horizontal portion of the uncoupling lever should be approx. 14 mm long.  The diagram below shows the approximate shape to aim for.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or small pieces of sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe where it would not be seen in normal operation.

Iron Ore Containers

Apart from removing any remaining supports from the 3D printing process, the iron ore containers require little preparation.

The HO version of the container includes two projecting pieces, highlighted in yellow below, which should be cut off and filed/sanded flush with the bottom of the slightly larger, angled projections.  The larger, angled projections are intended to fit into the recesses in the deck of the WFW flat wagon to position the containers.

The reason for the deeper projections is to prevent the angled projections from being sanded flat if the printing supports are removed in the i.Materialise factory.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  The model pictured has been painted with Testors Model Master Enamel colour "Gelb RLM 04".  (Gelb is German for yellow!)

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Customer Photo Gallery

This gallery contains photos of Marbelup Models products built and painted by customers.

Tasmanian HA and HH hopper wagons by Simon Chandler in Sn3½ scale.
The 3rd wagon in the train is an HH, which was made from two HA's welded together.

Tasmanian HA and HH hopper wagons by Simon Chandler (Jul 2015)

Two FD's and two VD's by Adrian Gunzburg (Apr 2014)

VD van with custom decals by Adrian Gunzburg (Apr 2014)

FD van by Adrian Gunzburg (Apr 2014)

ZBA Brake Van by Stuart Mackay (Feb 2014)

Four CXB Sheep Wagons by Neil Blinco (Feb 2014)

Water Columns by Doug Firth (Feb 2014)

Two CXB's built by Adrian Gunzburg of Melbourne (November 2013)

R1903 Diesel Loco, built by LE from Perth (September 2013)

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WOB Iron Ore Wagon Construction Tips

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from the wagon.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to cut the supports away from visible areas.  Take particular care around the ladder and step.  Note that the ladder and step both have guards below them to protect them during production and shipping.  It is suggested to leave these guards in place until the majority of the finishing work on the wagon has been completed, to minimise the risk of damage during handling.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over the wagon and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake cylinders and other detail items.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.  

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, expecially in the visible areas.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.

Bogie and Coupler Mounting Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies have been printed at 1.8 mm diameter to suit 2-56 screws.  Clear out the holes with a 1.8 mm drill in a pin vice.

Due to the difficulty of tapping the blind holes for the bogies, the 3D print includes vertical grooves in the sides of the holes to help the screws cut their own threads, so tapping the holes is not required nor recommended.  Note that the depth of the blind holes is 4.4 mm.  If using Kadee bogies, the supplied screws may need trimming to avoid damaging the floor of the wagon.

The holes for mounting the couplers are also blind, but should be drilled right through the floor with a 1.8 mm drill to obtain a strong fixing.  These holes should be tapped 2-56.  Note that one end of the wagon has two blind holes for couplers.  The one closest to the end of the wagon is for a Kadee coupler and the hole closest to the bogie fixing holes is for the rotary coupler option.  

Note: An economical source of 2-56 screws in various lengths is Little Bird Electronics.

Bogies

The suggested bogies are Kadee #569 or #1569, the only difference being the width of the wheels.  Both Atlas and Athearn make similar bogies, but the advantage of the Kadee ones is that they add some weight to the wagon due to the use of a relatively heavy plastic material.

Couplers

Option 1 - Kadees

The WOB is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the wagon centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Option 2 - Glatzl (Sergent) Rotary Couplers

If desired, the wagons can be fitted with a rotary coupler at one end, as per the prototype, to facilitate unloading in a rotary car dumper (tippler).  Glatzl sell working rotary couplers and matching dummy couplers which are available from Sergent Engineering in the US.  The Glatzl couplers will couple with "scale" size Kadees but not with "standard" size Kadees.

Note that it is preferable to use Glatzl dummy couplers rather than a "scale" size Kadee for the "fixed" coupler as the relatively tight fight between the Glatzl rotary and dummy couplers results in better operation with a rotary car dumper.

Typical steps to fit a Glatzl rotary coupler are:

1. Cut the rear portion off the Glatzl draft gear box leaving 16 mm of the draft gear box remaining.
2. Drill a 2.3 mm diameter hole exactly in the centre of the circular mould mark in the coupler box.
3. Fix the coupler to the end of the wagon opposite the ladder and handbrake wheel using a 2-56 screw.

To fit a Glatzl dummy coupler:

1. Use a round needle file to slightly enlarge the hole in the shank of the dummy coupler so that it pivots easily in a Kadee #262 draft gear box.
2. Cut away a small amount of plastic from the rear of the coupler knuckle to allow the coupler to fully swing from side to side in the Kadee #262 draft gear box.
3. Assemble the couple in the #262 draft gear box and snap on the lid.  Fix the assembled coupler to the end of the wagon with the ladder and handbrake wheel using a 2-56 screw.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the vertical handrail next to the handbrake wheel.  The handrail can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The length of the handrail, between hole centres, is 6.5 mm.  The holes should be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit.

Handbrake Wheel

Suitable handbrake wheels are available from a number of suppliers, including etched brass wheels from Model Etch.  Note that at least two styles of wheels have been used on the wagons.

If using etched brass brake wheels, one fixing option is to solder a length of brass wire (e.g. 0.4 mm diameter) to the centre of the brake wheel.  After filing or grinding any excess solder from the front of the wheel, the wire can be trimmed so it protrudes approx. 1.5 mm from the rear of the wheel.  Drill out the starter hole in the handbrake housing, e.g. 0.45 mm diameter, and glue the wire, and wheel, in place.

Air Brake Hoses

Small brackets are provided next to the couplers on each end of the wagon for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter hole provided in the supporting bracket to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or small pieces of sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe where it would not be seen in normal operation.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  The model pictured has been painted with Testors Model Master Enamel colourL "Signal Yellow".

Note that photos of virtually every WOB in various states of weathering are available at the Pilbara Railways web site.

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Bettendorf Bogies and Bolsters

American Models Bettendorf Bogie

Marbelup Models 3D-Printed Narrow Gauge Bolster

As supplied, the American Models Bettendorf bogies are designed for S scale standard gauge, i.e. 22.5 mm gauge.  The Marbelup Models 3D-printed narrow gauge bolsters greatly simplifies the process of converting the American Models bogie to narrow gauge.

* Limited quantity of American Models bogies available.

Assembly Tips

To install the 3D-printed narrow gauge bolsters, carefully remove the springs and separate the two side frames from the standard gauge bolster.

Tip: Work over a tray or shallow box to minimise the risk of losing springs.  The Kadee #241 manual uncoupling tool includes a “spring pic” which can be useful for removing and refitting springs.

Carefully remove the support structure from the 3D-printed bolsters using a sharp craft knife.  A knife with an Xacto No.11 blade is recommended.

If required, paint the narrow gauge bolsters and (optionally) the sideframes prior to reassembly.

Reassemble one sideframe of each bogie to a 3D-printed narrow gauge bolster.  Fit the second sideframe to each bogie but do not refit the springs at this stage.

Fit desired wheelsets by carefully twisting one sideframe with respect to the bolster.  Wheelsets must have 26 mm axles.

Refit springs to second sideframe of each bogie.

The pivot hole in the 3D-printed bolsters is designed for 2-56 (or 8BA) screws.

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RA Loco Assembly Tips

Parts List

In addition to the 3D printed parts, the following parts must be obtained separately by the modeller:

• Brass wire for handrails, etc. (0.4 mm, 0.6 mm)
• Air hoses - e.g. Detail Associates #6206 (Vacuum brake hoses are included.)
• Handrail Posts (4) for uncoupling levers - e.g. Markits 1.5 mm(short - available from Railwest Models.
• Handrail Stanchions - see below.
• Bogie drive mechanisms - see below (Hollywood Foundry)
• Motor - Mashima 1833D Flat Can (double shaft, 2 mm diameter, includes fixing screws) (Hollywood Foundry)
• Drive shaft(s) - 1.5 mm diameter, approx 65 mm long (cut to exact length) (Brass rod is suitable.)
• Universal Joint set for 1.5 mm shafts (Hollywood Foundry)
• Flexible coupling(s) for motor end(s) of drive shafts - suggestion is to use model aircraft fuel tubing, approx. 1 mm ID, 4 mm OD.  
• DCC decoder and speaker (both optional)
• Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) for headlights 4 x 3 mm (sunny white)
• Optic fibre 2 mm diameter for headlights.
• LEDs (red and white) and optic fibre, if operating marker lights desired
• paint as desired
• decals - contact Westland Models.
• lead or other weighting material
• Kadee couplers #156 ("scale") or #146 (normal size)
• Kadee draft gear boxes #252
• Fixing screws for body, couplers and fuel tank e.g. Kadee #256 - 12 holes are included correct size (1.8 mm) ready for tapping 2-56.
• Fixing screws for speaker M1.4 x 6 (slightly longer is OK) - 4 holes are included correct size (1.1 mm) and screws should make their own thread, tapping shouldn't be required.  Suitable screws are available from DCC Concepts - Part No. DCS-PHB156 or in assortment DCS-PHBSet.  Although described as 1.5 mm, the DCC Concepts screws are actually M1.4 thread.  Note:  DCC Concepts now supplies pan-head and countersunk screws interchangeably, so you can't be sure of getting one or the other.

Bogie Drive Mechanisms

The bogie drive mechanisms can be ordered direct from Hollywood Foundry. The ordering specifications are as follows:

Drive bogie specifications: G16.5/B28.6+25/W14-110/15:1DUALBELT/NOBOL

Dummy bogie specifications: G16.5/B28.6+25/W14-110/NOBOL

To order the above bogie configurations, please use the special order page on the Hollywood Foundry web site and copy and paste the above codes into the Product Description field.  

The modeller has the choice of fitting two identical drive bogies or one drive bogie and a matching dummy bogie, depending on the required hauling capacity.  

If a single drive bogie is fitted, this would normally be placed at the rear to keep the cab free for interior detailing if desired.  However, the drive shaft is quite low above the footplate level, so there is minimal intrusion into the cab when two drive bogies are fitted.

The current (December 2014) pricing for the required Hollywood Foundry parts is:

Drive bogie - $91.30 (same price as Bullant In-Line 3-Axle)

Dummy bogie - $45.10 (same price as Bullant 3-axle Dummy)

Motor: Mashima M1833D - $31.35

Universal Joint Set for 1.5 mm shafts (set contains parts for 4 joints.  1 joint is required per drive bogie, but it is recommended to purchase 1 set per loco to allow for some "spares".) - $4.19 per set

Drive shafts are available from Hollywood Foundry although the required 65 mm length is not a standard product. Check with Hollywood Foundry for availability.  Alternatively, 1.5 mm brass or steel rod can be used.

Silicone Tubing - used for flexible coupling between motor and drive shaft(s).  Supplied free by Hollywood Foundry if requested when ordering other parts.  Tubing will fit both 2 mm motor shaft and 1.5 mm drive shaft.

The prototype 3D-printed chassis showing central motor, Tsunami AT-style DCC sound decoder, drive shaft, belt drive and speaker "duct" with tunnel for drive shaft.

The chassis does not have provision for a flywheel.  The main reason is that the motor is mounted low down, partly in the fuel tank, to get a "straight line" drive shaft alignment.  Also, the speaker is very close to one end of the motor, which was necessary to avoid the narrow part of the body just behind the cab.

DCC and Sound

The chassis is specially designed to accept a 23 mm square high-bass speaker (Soundtraxx 810129 or equivalent) if a sound decoder is to be installed.  The speaker faces downwards on a "sound duct" which has a "tunnel" through it for the front drive shaft.

Although the choice of specific sound decoder is very subjective, the Soundtraxx Alco 244 Tsunami decoder sounds similar to the English Electric diesel engine in the prototype, and is probably the closest available "off-the-shelf" decoder.  The Tsunami "AT" style decoder model 828043 (pictured above) is suitable and slightly cheaper than the TSU-1000 style model 827104.

Note: The above links are for the SoundTraxx web site.  SoundTraxx do not sell direct but their products are available from many retailers.

Couplers

The suggested couplers are both "long shank" style which avoids the problem of the "glad hand" on opposing couplers from fouling the cowcatcher.  The choice between normal and "scale" size is up to the individual modeller.

Also, the suggested Kadee #252 draft gear boxes should be mounted upside down (as per the photo on the right on the Kadee web site). The round boss on the upper side needs to be trimmed away to allow the assembled coupler to slide into the headstock opening.

Other types of couplers can potentially be installed by modifying the headstock and/or coupler mounting pad.

Handrails

Unlike the chain handrails on the R class, the RA had solid handrails but with removable segments to allow the doors to be opened.

The 3D-printed chassis incorporates holes approx. 0.6 mm diameter to house the vertical handrail posts, typically cut from 0.6 mm brass wire.

One option for the handrails is to solder each section of handrails from 0.6 mm brass wire.  Marbelup Models can supply a PDF template for the handrails on request.  Note that the end walls of the cab have starter holes for the horizontal handrails.  These should be carefully opened out with a 0.65 mm drill bit to a depth of approx. 1.5 mm.

Use of A-Line Handrail Stanchions

An alternative, which is potentially easier than soldering, is to use preformed steel handrail stanchions available from A-Line (Division of Proto-Power West, USA).  These are available from various online hobby shops and/or eBay.  (Marbelup Models has limited stocks of these stanchions available at $15 per pack of 35 stanchions.)

A-Line Handrail Stanchions

Although these stanchions are intended for HO locos, the two longest sizes are sufficiently long to be trimmed to the correct length for the RA.  The A-line part numbers are D1071 (long) and D1071 (extra long).  The stanchions should be trimmed at the bottom to a length of 18.5 mm, measured from the top of the "loop".  For the handrails on the end platform, the stanchions should be trimmed to 17.5 mm.  After trimming, file off any rough edges from the cut end.  A total of 28 stanchions is required.

The holes in the 3D-printed chassis should be carefully drilled out to 0.75 mm to accommodate the stanchions (suggested drill size - test on some scrap plastic first).  Carefully insert each stanchion vertically into the drilled hole, taking care to align the loop perpendicular to the sides of the loco.  It is also suggested to orient all stanchions the same way, e.g. with the open side of the top loop inwards.  Make sure the bottom of each stanchion is level with the underside of the running boards.

Once the stanchions are installed, 0.6 mm brass wire can be threaded through the line of stanchions to complete the handrail.  

Where the handrails join onto the cab, there is a second, short handrail half-way up (See prototype photos.).  If desired to replicate this feature, a short length of brass should be soldered onto the inside of each stanchion nearest the cab.  Experience suggests the stanchions require light filing before soldering.

Once all the stanchions are in place and the long handrails threaded through, check that all the stanchions are vertical and make any necessary adjustments.  Then, the brass handrail can be secured to each stanchion with superglue and, if desired, the stanchions glued into the holes in the running boards.  Note that the short handrail in front of the cab (right side of loco only) should not be glued as it needs to be removed prior to separating the body and chassis, e.g. for maintenance.

Chassis - Removal of Support Material

Carefully cut away the support materials from the delicate areas highlighted in the drawing below which are:

• Bolsters with bogie chain brackets approx. 6 mm in from edge of footplate (2 per side)
• Triangular footplate supports (4 per side)
• Sandboxes (2 per side)

Once these areas have been done, the remainder of the support material can be gently torn away by wiggling a section of it to break the fine attachment points.  

The remnants of the support attachment points should be removed with a sharp hobby knife, filing or sanding on all visible areas, including the bogie attachment points.

Chassis Height

The finished height of the footplate should be 23 mm.  Spacers with a nominal thickness of 1 mm are required between the Hollywood Foundry bogies and the underside of the footplate.  The thickness of the spacers can be varied slightly, if required, to adjust the coupler height to match a Kadee coupler height gauge.

Headlights

The holes provided in the body shell for headlights are nominally 2.5 mm diameter, but typically slightly undersize due to the 3D printing process.  

One method of lighting the headlights is to use a short length of optic fibre together with a 3 mm LED (Light Emitting Diode).  

Note: Incandescent (filament) lamps are not recommended due to their high operating temperature which may damage the 3D print material.

At the rear of the loco, it is not practical to drill out the headlights to allow use of 2.5 mm diameter optic fibre, as the hole provided follows a curved path to allow for the high position of the headlights relative to the roof of the long hood.  The suggested method is to carefully drill out the first 2-3 mm of the hole to 2.5 mm diameter, but use 2 mm diameter optic fibre which can bendto match the curved shape of the hole.  The end of the optic fibre can be flared to approx. 2.5 mm diameter by holding it close to (but not touching) a hot soldering iron.  With a little practice, the amount of flare can be judged to give a lens shape 2.5 mm in diameter.  The same technique can be used for the front lights as well to avoid the need to purchase two difference sizes of optic fibre.

To attached the LED to the optic fibre, 3 mm black heatshink tubing is recommended.  With the use of a hot air gun, the heatshrink tubing will shrink to form a snug fit over the optic fibre.  However, the hot air may well be hot enough to melt the plastic optic fibre, so the trick is to shrink the tubing over the shank of a 2 mm drill bit, them slide the drill bit out and slide in the optic fibre.

Typical steps are:

1. Cut heatshrink tubing to length, e.g. 8-10 mm.
2. Hold 3 mm LED in a small vice by its legs, with the clear lens uppermost.
3. Push the cut length of heatshrink tubing over the clear lens of the LED.
4. Hold the shank of a 2 mm drill bit inside the heatshrink tubing while applying heat from a hot air gun.
5. When it has cooled, withdraw the drill bit and insert the desired length of optic fibre.  For the rear of the loco, you will probably have to feed the non-flared end of the optic fibre through the curved hole provided (from the outside) and attached the LED with attached heatshrink tubing on the inside.

For the dual headlights, it is simplest to wire the two LED in series as this simplifies the wiring and avoids the need for two separate resistors.  A resistor of around 2K2 (2,200 ohms) is a suggested starting point for LEDs powered from DCC decoders.