FD Van Construction Tips

"As Printed" with supports still attached.

Removal of Support Structure

The FD van is printed upside down, which results in the optimum surface finish on the louvres which are obviously the most prominent part of this model. The downside is that removal of the supports from the roof will leave small attachment points which require cleaning up, and there will be some visible stepping on the roof.

In general, it is best to first cut away the supports from the areas which have small details, and the areas which will be visible on the the finished model with a sharp hobby knife.  (An X-Acto style knife with a #11 fine blade can be useful for the fiddly bits.) Take particular care removing the supports from the brake handle, vacuum hoses, door tracks, and underfloor brake gear.  Note that there will probably be a tiny support at the top of each vacuum hose.

The brake handle has a "sacrificial" guard around it to provide some protection against breakage during production and shipping of the 3D printed model.  It is suggested to leave this in place until most of the other finishing work has been done to minimise the risk of breakage to these delicate parts.

Once the supports have been cut away from the delicate areas, the remaining supports can be broken away by wiggling them or applying pressure to break the small attachment points.  It is not necessary to remove all the supports from inside the van body as these will not be visible on the finished model.

The visible stepping on the roof can be smoothed of using a craft knife with a scraping action, then finished with sanding stick or sandpaper.  Any minor indentations should be filled with modelling putty (e.g. Tamiya) and sanded smooth.

Take care when scraping/sanding the roof to not damage the rain strips.  It may be helpful to make a concave, curved sanding tool using a segment of cardboard mailing tube or plastic pipe, with sandpaper attached with glue or double sided tape.  The radius of the roof is 33.3 mm so, ideally, the sanding tool should have a similar radius.

Sanding tool for roof, with handle from scrap wood.

Couplers

The FD is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the #148 and #158 couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the van centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

The holes for the couplers are designed to accommodate 2-56 or 8BA screws without tapping.  

Note:  Tapping the holes is not recommended as it will remove more material and potentially lead to stripped threads.

W-Irons

The design of the FD van is optimised to suit the "closed" W-irons, made from etched brass, which are available from Railwest Models.  This is because the closed W-irons, when used in conjunction with Markits brass bearings, are the correct width for wheels with 26 mm axles, so that the sides of the W-irons are truly vertical.  (Refer to Sn3½ Blog article for more details.)  Other W-irons can be fitted with minor adjustments.

The mounting height for the W-irons is optimised for wheels of the correct scale diameter, i.e. 12.5 mm diameter.  If using the commonly available wheels of 12 mm diameter, packing pieces of approx. 0.25 mm will be necessary between the W-irons and floor.

"Closed" (left) and "Open" W-irons.  Photo courtesy of Railwest Models

Remove the W-irons from the fret, fold them up and fit brass bearings in the usual way.  If using compensation with the "closed" W-irons, the rocking W-iron is at the extreme left of the photo above, with the fixed W-iron adjacent to it on the same fret.

The underframe of the wagon includes eight small holes at each end for mounting the W-irons, using 1 mm x 3 mm pan-head self tapping screws.  Different sets of holes are used at each end, depending on the type of W-iron used, and each W-iron requires only two screws.  (These screws are available from DCC Concepts part no. DCS-PH103.)  

(Of course, you can glue the W-irons in position if you prefer, in which case the holes and grooves included in the underframe help to locate the W-irons in the correct position.)

The fixed W-iron is installed at end of the wagon opposite the brake handle.  Use the fixing holes which are located on the axle centre line, 15 mm apart, to fix the W-iron into position.   If using 26.5 mm wheels, the wheel flanges will most likely rub on the screw heads, in which case the W-iron should be glued in position (e.g. with super glue or Pliobond).  Screws can be used to locate the W-iron and hold it in position until the glue has dried.

To achieve compensation, the rocking W-iron is installed at the end of the wagon with the brake handle.  Remove the separate pivot bracket from the centre of the W-iron and fold up the ends to match the etched holes in the W-iron.  It may be necessary to bend the ends of the brackets slightly more than 90° to minimise slop in the rocking W-iron.  The idea is to use the holes in the pivot bracket to secure the rocking W-iron to the wagon, using the pair of holes on the wagon centre line spaced 10 mm apart.  To allow clearance for the screw heads, file or grind a hollow in the side of the W-iron.

As per the intended W-iron assembly procedure, pass a piece of brass wire (e.g. 1 mm diameter) through the pivot bracket and the corresponding holes in the side of the W-iron, and solder the wire on the outside only to the pivot bracket.  Check that the W-iron can move freely with respect to the pivot bracket.  Cut the centre of the brass wire out, to allow access for the fixing screws.  Cut the wire initially at a 45° angle to avoid forcing the sides of the W-iron apart, then cut the remaining section out leaving just enough to form the pivots for the rocking action.  Also trim the excess wire from the outside of the W-iron, and file the wire and solder until it is almost flush with the sides of the W-irons to allow it to be slid sideways between the brake shoe supports.

Fit the wheels (26 mm axle length) and check that wagon sits at the correct height above the rails, i.e. the coupler mounting surfaces should be 11.5 mm above rail level, and adjust if necessary.

After checking that the wagon runs happily, fit the cosmetic W-iron/axlebox assemblies to the outside of the brass W-irons.  It will probably be necessary to clean out the holes in the W-iron/axlebox assemblies with a 2 mm (or slightly larger) drill bit to fit over the brass bearings.

Handrails

Handrails can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  Starter holes are provided on the side and ends, which should be opened out with a 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm drill bit.

The lengths of the handrails (centre to centre) are as follows:

• doors: 9 mm
• ends (vertical, above brake handle and shunter's step): 6.5 mm

Once in position, the handrails can be secured with Super Glue.

Floor and Weighting

To allow the van to be 3D-printed in one piece, the underframe is a skeleton only, with no floor.  If desired, rectangles of styrene (approx 1 mm thick) can be cut and glued between the underframe cross members to represent the floor.  Optionally, some or all of these pieces can be cut from sheet lead to add weight to the van.  

With no additional weight, the finished FD weight approx. 46 grams.  The suggested weight for a van of this length is approx. 68 grams (See Sn3½ Blog.).

The dimensions of the "floor" pieces are as follows:

• Centre: 11.5 x 10.5 mm 
• End: 12 mm x 6 mm 

Some of the pieces may require slight trimming around small details.  Because the vacuum cylinder occupies one of the "squares" near the centre of the wagon, lead weights should be applied to diagonally opposite "squares" to maintain equal weight on either side.  The unused "square" can be filled with styrene sheet if desired.

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VDR Bogie Freezer Van

A total of five VDR vans were converted from VD louvre vans between 1956 and 1962.  The later ones only had a single door to the freezer compartment and one of the early vans was later converted to the single door arrangement.  (Marbelup Models may produced the single door version if there is sufficient demand.)

The refrigeration equipment was removed from the vans in 1970 after which they remained in traffic as general good vans, and were written off in the 1980's.

The photo below, from Rail Heritage WA, shows a prototype VDR van.

Refer to the WAGR Wagon Pages for more information on the prototype.

The body of the VDR has been printed in one piece.  The print orientation has been chosen to optimise the definition of the louvres, which will result in some visible stepping on the roof, which can be smoothed off by scraping and/or sanding.  As well, the modeller will be required to remove the support materials from the 3D printing process, and add various details such as handrails, from brass wire (not supplied).  For more information, please refer to the Construction Tips for VD Van which is very similar.

A set of decals for the van will be available from Westland Models (email: clarkrb@iinet.net.au).

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VD Van Construction Tips

VD Van "as printed" with supports still attached

Removal of Support Structure

The VD van is printed upside down, which results in the optimum surface finish on the louvres which are obviously the most prominent part of this model. The downside is that removal of the supports from the roof will leave small attachment points require cleaning up, and there will be some visible stepping on the roof.

In general, it is best to first cut away the supports from the areas which have small details, and the areas which will be visible on the the finished model with a sharp hobby knife.  (An X-Acto style knife with a #11 fine blade can be useful for the fiddly bits.) Take particular care removing the supports from the brake handles, vacuum hoses, door tracks, and underfloor brake gear.  Note that there will probably be a tiny support at the top of each vacuum hose.

The brake handles have "sacrificial" guards around them to provide some protection against breakage during production and shipping of the 3D printed model.  It is suggested to leave these in place until most of the other work has been done to minimise the risk of breakage to these delicate parts.

Once the supports have been cut away from the delicate areas, the remaining supports can be broken away by wiggling them or applying pressure to break the small attachment points.  It is not necessary to remove all the supports from inside the van body as these will not be visible on the finished model.

The visible stepping on the roof can be smoothed of using a craft knife with a scraping action, then finished with sanding stick or sandpaper.  Any minor indentations should be filled with modelling putty and sanded smooth.

Non-Tapping Holes

The holes for the couplers and bogies are designed to accommodate 2-56 or 8BA screws without tapping.  This also has the advantage that the screws remain tight, so they won't accidentally work loose (especially for the bogies).

Note:  Tapping the holes is not recommended as it will remove more material and potentially lead to stripped threads.

Bogies

Railwest Models sell suitable bogies.

An alternative is American Models S Scale standard gauge Bettendorf bogies which can be regauged to Sn3½ as described on the Sn3½ Blog. (Marbelup models has 3D-printed replacement bolsters available which simplify regauging of the American Models bogies.)

If necessary, adjust the height of the van on the bogies so that the coupler mounting surface is 11.5 mm above rail level.

Couplers

The VG is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the #148 and #158 couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the van centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Handrails

Handrails can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  Starter holes are provided on the side and ends, which should be opened out with a 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm drill bit.

The lengths of the handrails (centre to centre) are as follows:

• doors (2 per side): 9 mm
• ends (above brake handle): 6.5 mm

Once in position, the handrails and other brass details can be secured with Super Glue.

Brake Pull Rods and Hangers

On each side, there is a brake pull rod which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  Starter holes are provided which should be opened out with a 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm drill bit.  On the brake gear hanger nearest the vacuum cylinder, support the underside of the small lever from the inside when drilling to avoid braking the small lever.  The distance (centre to centre) between the holes is 45.4 mm.

The hangers for the brake pull rods can be formed from brass ministrip 0.8 mm x 0.25 mm (made by North Yard NZ and available from Railwest Models).  Small slots have been provided in the underside of the door track for attaching the top end of the brake hangers.  The brass ministrip should be cut to lengths of 11 mm and 13.5 mm, with 2 mm at the bottom bent over to form a loop to support the brake pull rod.  (Refer to prototype photos for arrangement.)

Floor and Weighting

To allow the van to be 3D-printed in one piece, the underframe is a skeleton only, with no floor.  If desired, rectangles of styrene (approx 1 mm thick) can be cut and glued between the underframe cross members to represent the floor.  Optionally, some or all of these pieces can be cut from sheet lead to add weight to the van.  

With no additional weight, the finished VD with American Models (plastic) bogies weight approx. 75 grams.  The suggested weight for a van of this length is approx. 110 grams (See Sn3½ Blog.).

Moving from the centre of the van towards the end, the dimensions of the "floor" pieces are as follows:

• Centre: 20.25 x 14.5 mm (2 required)
• Centre + 1: 20.25 x 14.5 mm (2 required)
• Centre + 2: 22 x 14.5 mm (4 required)
• End: 25 mm x 14.5 mm (4 required)

Some of the pieces may require slight trimming around small details.

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SXT Construction Tips

SXT with added details, ready for painting.

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from both parts of the wagon.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife  carefully cut the supports away from the roof, ends, and the underframe.  Take particular care around the brake handles, brake hoses and brake rigging on the underframe.  The ends of the brake handle have a "sacrificial" guard to reduce the risk of breakage during production and shipping.  You may wish to leave the guards in place until the majority of the assembly work has been complete to minimise the risk of breakage.

Because of the fine ribbing on the brake hoses, the 3D printer's automatic software has generated many support points, which have merged into one.  Carefully cut between the brake hose and the support structure, using repeated cuts with a sharp knife (e.g. Olfa snap-off blade type or X-Acto knife with #11 blade), to separate the support structure, then carefully trim the remnants from the hose.

Interlocking Parts (CXB shown, but SXT is the same)

Note that on the underside of the roof, alternating ribs extend a short distance beyond the edge of the roof to interlock the two parts when it is time for final assembly.  

The support structure extends inside the upper and lower decks of the wagon to support the inside of the wagon sides.  From the outside, cut through supports attached to the small circular brackets for the horizontal wires above the side planking on each deck, on the underside of the roof, and the underside of the middle floor.  When you have cut as many of these supports as possible from the outside of the wagon, gently wiggling the supports structure (e.g. with needle nose pliers) from the open side, will break the remaining supports and allow pieces of the structure to be torn away. Be careful not to apply excessive force to avoid damaging the side planks and door areas.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over both parts and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake rigging and between the frame members of the underframe.  An X-acto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.

Go around the surfaces of each part where they will join together, and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, on the roof, ends, middle and lower floors, etc.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this, but be careful not to damage the projecting parts which are designed to interlock.  Also remove any remnants from the very ends of the projecting parts.  When you think you have finished, test fit the two halves together.  Interlock the roof ribs first, then gently bring the underside of the wagon together to see how it fits.  There are several frame members in the underframe which have retangular pins which fit into oval holes in their opposite number (a variation on the square peg in the round hole concept). 

If the two halves don't close completely, dismantle again and check for and remove any tiny bumps from the support structure attachments.

Near each end of the wagon and in the centre, there are four small tabs designed for 1 mm x 3 mm long pan-head self tapping screws, to secure the two halves of the wagon together.

In the long term, you have the option of gluing the body together, e.g. with superglue, or continuing to use the screw fixings..

Non-Tapping Holes

The holes for the couplers and bogies are designed to accommodate 2-56 or 8BA screws without tapping.  This also has the advantage that the screws remain tight, so they won't accidentally work loose (especially for the bogies).

Note:  Tapping the holes is not recommended as it will remove more material and potentially lead to stripped threads.

Adding Wire Detailing

(CXB wagon shown, SXT is similar.)

Several lengths of 0.4 mm brass wire are required as follows:

• A - 59.5 mm, above timber side rails, 8 pieces per side
• B - 13.5 mm, above timber side rails, upper deck only, 4 pieces per side
• C - 12 mm, upper doors, 4 pieces per side
• D - 24 mm, lower doors, 4 pieces per side
• E - 28.5 mm, upper door top guide, 2 piece per side
• F - Brake pull rod, not required for SXT
• G - 27.5 mm for centre linking section, 6 pieces per wagon (not shown in diagram)

The holes for the above have all been incorporated in the 3D-printed model.  Once in position, the various wire parts can be secured with super glue.

Wire "drill bit" in use for cleaning out holes in centre section.

The horizontal rods in the centre linking section are each secured by a hole in the centre vertical angle iron, and the ends sit in notches in the outer vertical angle irons.  Cleaning out the holes in the centre vertical angles requires a special technique, as the body of the wagon prevents use of a normal drill bit.  The suggested technique is to use a piece of 0.4 mm brass wire approx 75 mm long as an improvised drill but, by cutting one end at a 45 degree angle.  The rough edges of the cut end form a crude but effective drill bit when the wire is held in a pin vice.  To reach the centre holes, the end of the long "drill but" can be passed through the gaps between the side board and then through the gaps between the end boards.  If gently guided by tweezers, the wire "drill bit" will bend into a gentle curve to drill a fairly straight hole in the centre angle iron (See photo above.).  Once these holes in the angle irons have been cleaned out, the cut pieces of wire also have to be fed back through the slots in the end boards to allow inserting on the hole, then slid into their correct position.

Wire "drill bit" in use for cleaning out holes in doors. Note wires already inserted in centre section.

The holes for the horizontal rods above the side planks have a nominal diameter of 0.6 mm.  If a wire does not go in easily, do not force it.  Clean out the hole(s) with a 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm drill bit in a pin vice.  The holes for the wires in the doors and the upper door top guide are smaller, and will definitely need cleaning out with a 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm drill bit.  When cleaning out the holes in the doors on the left end of each side, the 75 mm long wire "drill bit" may also be useful as access to the holes in the doors is limited for a normal drill bit.

Also using 0.4 mm wire, form the 2 handrails which are located vertically on the ends of the wagon, above the brake lever, and also on the inner ends of each of the former CXB bodies.  The spacing between the holes is 6.5 mm.  

Bogies

Railwest Models sell suitable bogies.

An alternative is American Models S Scale standard gauge Bettendorf bogies which can be regauged to Sn3½ as described on the Sn3½ Blog.  (Marbelup models has 3D-printed replacement bolsters available which simplify regauging of the American Models bogies.)

If necessary, adjust the height of the van on the bogies so that the coupler mounting surface is 11.5 mm above rail level.

Couplers

The SXT is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the #148 and #158 couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the van centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Brake Pull Rods and Hangers

(VG Van Shown - SXT brake arrangement is the same.)

On each side, there is a brake pull rod which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  Starter holes are provided which should be opened out with a 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm drill bit.  On the brake gear hanger nearest the vacuum cylinder, support the underside of the small lever from the inside when drilling to avoid braking the small lever.  The distance (centre to centre) between the holes is 45.5 mm.

The hangers for the brake pull rods can be formed from brass ministrip 0.8 mm x 0.25 mm (made by North Yard NZ and available from Railwest Models).  Small slots have been provided in the underside of the underframe for attaching the top end of the brake hangers.  The brass ministrip should be cut to lengths of 11 mm and 13.5 mm, with 2 mm at the bottom bent over to form a loop to support the brake pull rod.  (Refer to prototype photos for arrangement.)

Note: Due to the print orientation for the SXT, the slots in the underframe may be blocked by a tiny (0.5 mm diameter) support piece.  Test fit some brass ministrip in each slot - it should go in 2 mm.  If the slot is blocked, clear it with a fine knife blade, e.g. Xacto #11.

Weighting

With no additional weight, the completed wagon including wheels and couplers weighs around 98 grams.  The "desirable" weight for a wagon of this length (200 mm) is around 125 grams to ensure optimum operation including operation of Kadee couplers.

Addition of a Marbelup Models sheep load in Polyamide material adds approximately 32 grams, bringing the total weight up to around 130 grams. 

If modelling an empty wagon, the weight can be increased by gluing lead shot or sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe, where it would not be seen in normal operation. 

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  

If desired, the interior of the wagon can be painted (airbrushed) prior to assembly.  Experience to date suggests that this is probably not necessary as overspray from painting the outside tends to take away the "bare plastic" look on the inside surfaces.  

Obviously, if a sheep load is to be included, it should be added after spray painting the wagon itself. Tamiya XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan is a reasonable colour for the sheep load.

Once the wagon is completely assembled, the join line on the roof can be filled and smoothed off. The join lines on the ends are virtually invisible as they are aligned with the angle iron end braces.

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Sheep Load for CXB and SXT

Close up of painted Sheep Load

 Marbelup Models offers 3D-printed sheep loads for the CXB and SXT sheep wagons.  The loads consist of groups of 45 sheep, which can be inserted during final assembly of the sheep wagons.

The loads for the CXB are 3D-printed in Alumide material which is a combination of plastic (polyamide) and aluminium powders, fused together by a laser.  The Alumide provides a bit of weight to the wagons, more so than pure plastic, adding about 24 g to the CXB.  The Alumide also has a textured surface which looks effective when painted.  The painted sheep in the photos have been airbrushed with Tamiya XF78 "Wooden Deck Tan" acrylic.

For the SXT bogie sheep wagon, the Alumide sheep are actually a bit too heavy, so they are also available in pure Polyamide.  The Polyamide sheep load for the SXT adds about 32 g.  The Polyamide has a smoother texture than the Alumide but still looks good when painted.

Unpainted Alumide Sheep Load

CXB Sheep Wagon with painted Sheep Load

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VD Bogie Louvre Van

Wire details added, but not fully painted yet...

A total of 180 VD vans were built in 1952-3.  Ironically, the VD vans were built in Enghien in Belgium, which is only about 60 km from the i.Materialise 3D printing factory where the model is being made.

The model depicts the van in "as delivered" condition.  There were many modifications carried out during the life of the VD vans and Marbelup Models may produced later versions if there is sufficient demand.  The prototype vans lasted until approx. 1991.

Computer Rendering of VD Model (Bogies shown are not supplied.)

The photo below, from Rail Heritage WA, shows a VD van in close to original condition.

Refer to the WAGR Wagon Pages for more information on the prototype.

In the Paintshop

The body of the VD has been printed in one piece.  The print orientation has been chosen to optimise the definition of the louvres, which will result in some visible stepping on the roof, which can be smoother off by scraping and/or sanding.  As well, the modeller will be required to remove the support materials from the 3D printing process, and add various details such as handrails, from brass wire (not supplied).  For more information, please refer to the Construction Tips.

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WAGR Water Columns

3D-printed model of "extended" water column (unpainted)

The Marbelup Models WAGR water columns are typical from the late steam era, and are available in two heights.

Prior to the mid 1950's, the original, shorter version of the water column was in use.  However, in preparation for the introduction of larger steam locos like the V class, many existing water columns were raised in height by 18" (in the old measure) by the addition of a cast spacer piece.  Photographic evidence from the Rail Heritage WA web site, suggests that most water columns at larger stations were raised in height, but some shorter columns remained at smaller stations and on lines not suitable for the larger steam locos.

Having drawn the 3D drawing for the extended water column, it was then a simple matter to produce a version without the spacer piece, allowing either type to be 3D printed.  

Computer rendering of WAGR Water Columns

Here is one photo of the many available from Rail Heritage WA, by searching for "water column".

Assembly Tips

1. Carefully remove the support structure from the model using a sharp craft knife, starting from the valve handwheel, which is the most delicate part of the model.  A knife with an Xacto No11 blade is recommended.  For delicate areas, cut with multiple strokes of the knife rather than trying to cut through in one go.  
2. The flanges on the vertical post typically have bolt heads/nuts top and bottom.  When cutting the support structure away from the bottom, leave a small amount (similar in size to on top) to represent the bolt detail.
3. Use 0.3 mm brass wire (not supplied) to form the support for the arm.  The distance between the right-angle bends in the wire should be 35.25 mm.  Install the wire in the holes provided, and secure with super glue.
4. Paint in desired colour.  The Rail Heritage WA web site has several colour photos of the prototype.
5. Fit supplied length of heatshrink tubing to form hose. 
6. Weather to taste.
7. For installation on layout, the base is intended to be 3.5 mm below rail level, corresponding to the typical height of sleepers and rail.

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