WW Assembly Tips

Parts List

• Bogies: e.g. "100-ton roller bearing" by Kadee part no 569 or 1569 (see below) or Tichy #3009 (1 pair) or #3036 (10 pairs)
• Couplers: Kadee #148 or #158 (see below)
• Replacement Metal Wheelsets 36" diameter - if using Tichy bogies, e.g. Intermountain #40051 (4 per wagon).
• Coupler boxes: Kadee #262 (supplied)
• Air Brake Hoses, e.g. Detail Associates #6206
• Brass wire: 0.4 mm for handrails, etc.
• Fixing screws: 2 x 2-56 x 8 mm (5/16") metal, 2 x 2-56 x 12 mm (1/2") nylon - (see below)
• Glue, paint, decals

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from the wagon.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to cut the supports away from visible areas.  Take particular care around the roofwalk supports at the ends of the wagon, and the discharge hatches at the bottom of the wagon.  There should be a row of supports along each side of the wagon, under the side sills.  Once these are removed, the supports under the discharge hatches will be visible.

Typical Support Structure prior to removal.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over the wagon and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another including, for example, inside the coupler housing.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.  

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, expecially in the visible areas.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.

Bogie and Coupler Mounting Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies have been printed at 1.8 mm diameter to suit 2-56 screws.  

Due to the difficulty of tapping the blind holes for the bogies, the 3D print includes vertical grooves in the sides of the holes to help the screws cut their own threads, so tapping the holes is not required nor recommended.

Note: An economical source of steel 2-56 screws in various lengths is Little Bird Electronics.  

Bogies

The suggested bogies are Kadee #569 or #1569, the only difference being the width of the wheels.  Atlas and Athearn and others make similar bogies, but the advantage of the Kadee ones is that they add some weight to the wagon due to the use of a relatively heavy plastic material.

Tichy Train Group also makes an economical 1-piece plastic bogie #3009 (1 pair) or #3036 (10 pairs), however these are supplied with relatively low quality plastic wheelsets which are also too small in diameter (33").  Intermountain Railway Company sell high quality all-brass wheelsets which fit well in the Tichy bogies and are the correct size, i.e. 36".

Note that Intermountain do also sell complete roller bearing bogies but these are supplied with 33" wheelsets only.  Be wary of other brands of bogies as well.  In general, US roller bearing bogie (trucks) described as "100-ton" have 36" wheelsets and "70-ton" have 33" wheelsets.

Note that the depth of the blind holes for the bogies is 4 mm.  If using Kadee bogies, the supplied screws will need trimming to a length of 7.5 - 8 mm to avoid damaging the wagon (or shorter screws substituted).  Do not drill the bogie mounting holes any deeper, as they are directly under the ends of the hopper and the drilled hole will "break through" and be visible on the finished model.

Couplers

The WW is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes, which are available separately, are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the wagon centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Because of the deep end sill on the WW series of wagons, the model has been designed so the coupler and draft gear box slides into a recess via a hole in the end sill.  Make sure that any remnants of support structure from the 3D printing process have been cleaned up from inside the coupler mounting recess.

The draft gear box will probably be a snug fit inside the mounting recess.  A hole has been provided for a 2-56 fixing screw to prevent the coupler from being pulled out.  Note that the maximum length of the screw is 4.25 mm, so it is likely the screw will have to be cut to length.  Provided a metal screw is first used to create a thread in the provided hole, a nylon screw (e.g. Kadee #256) can be used for the permanent fixing.  A nylon screw is much easier to cut to the desired length, and the Kadee nylon screws have a low profile head which provides maximum clearance for the outboard axles.

Kadee nylon 2-56 screws are available from good hobby shops.

Note that the height from rail level to the top of coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Brake Rods

There are 3 brakes rods which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire: one long one which runs along the side of the wagon and 2 short ones, which disappear into holes provided in the ends of the hopper.

Brake Rods - 2 out of 3 shown.

Typically, the holes for the brake rods are printed at 0.4 mm diameter but all will require cleaning out using a pin vice and drill bit, e.g. 0.45 mm.

Note that cleaning out the hole in the longer of the two brake levers is a bit tricky, due to its location under the sloping end of the hopper.  This hole has been printed at 0.6 mm but will probably still need cleaning out.  One option is to use a length of 0.4 mm brass wire, approx. 75 mm long, held in a pin vice as a crude drill, by cutting one end at approx. 45 degrees to form cutting surfaces.  This long "drill" can then be poked through the gaps in the supports for the roofwalk (prior to fitting the roofwalk, of course) to reach the hole in the brake lever.  Another, perhaps better, alternative is to use a purpose-made cutting broach, such as the ones available from DCC Concepts.  These have a long, tapered cutting blade which can be used for enlarging small holes.  The second smallest broach in the DCC Concepts set is a suitable size for this application, as the diameter near the tip is just over 0.4 mm.

Cutting Broaches

The holes for the long brake rod, which links the two brake levers, theoretically, measure 137.4 mm centre-to-centre.  This brake rod should have a 90-degree bend at each end, approx 1 mm long to fit in the holes.  Because of variations in the 3D-printing process, the actual length required may vary slightly, so some fitting will be required.  When the brake rod fits between in the holes at each end, it should be secured in place with superglue and also glued to the 5 support brackets along the side of the wagon.

The two short brake rods should each be approx. 12 mm long, with a 90-degree bend at one end, approx. 1 mm long.  The straight end fits in the hole provided in the end of the hopper and the bent into fits into the corresponding brake lever.

Handrails

The WW has an inverted U-shaped handrail at the end near the handbrake, and a pair of vertical handrails at the opposite end.  In addition, the AGWY/AGSY has 2 more pairs of vertical handrails at other corners.  Small starter holes have been provided to locate handrails, which should be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit in a pin vice.

The handrails can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The U-shaped handrail is 6 mm wide (centre to centre) and 8.5 mm high, which allows for 1 mm to be inserted into the holes.  The vertical handrails are also 8.5 mm high.

Door Operating Mechanism Rods (optional)

As an optional detail item, small holes have been provided for three rods which form part of the door operating mechanism on the real WW's.  The holes should be cleaned out with a 0.45 mm drill bit, after which the rods can be cut from 0.4 mm brass wire and glued into position.  The hole through the larger gear wheel should be drilled out 0.65 mm for 0.6 mm brass wire.

From left to right, as pictured below, the lengths of the rods are approx. 14.5, 15, and 13.5 mm, the last one being 0.6 mm wire.

Air Brake Hoses

Small brackets are provided next to the couplers on each end of the wagon for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter hole provided in the supporting bracket to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.  A suggested drill size is 0.65 mm.

Uncoupling Levers

A small starter hole has been provided underneath the coupler, as well as a notched bracket towards the left side of the wagon, when view from the end.  The uncoupling lever can be shaped from 0.4 mm brass wire, with a 90 degree bend for attachment into the central fixing hole.   The diagram below shows the approximate shape to aim for, but feel free to adjust the measurements to suit your model.

After positioning each uncoupling lever, check that the coupler can swing freely and is not obstructed, prior to gluing it into position.

Filling Discharge Door Openings (optional)

If desired, the rectangular holes in the bottom discharge doors can be filled with pieces of styrene sheet.  Suggested dimensions are 5 mm x 9 mm x 0.5 mm thick.  Small ledges have been provided inside the openings for this purpose.

It was necessary to leave these holes open for the 3D-printing process (stereolithography) to allow the unused liquid plastic resin to drain from the interior of the hopper.

Etched Brass Parts

The supplied etched parts consist of:

• roofwalk and ladder assembly
• brake wheel
• small steps (x3)
• large step

For all of the etched parts, the first step is to cut them free from the "fret", e.g. using a knife.  The small attachment points are etched half way through to make cutting easier. Note that this will dull the knife blade, so don't use a new blade (or use a "snap-off" blade and discard the dulled blade.

Using a small file, remove any roughness at the attachment points and clean up any other areas requiring attention.  Sometimes, due to variations in the etching over the entire sheet, small sections of very thin brass can remain but these are easy to clean up.

Roofwalk and Ladders (WW only, not AGWY/AGSY)

The roofwalk has attached ladders which need to the folder "down" and handrails (both loop and straight) which need to he folder "up".  Note that the etch is symmetrical so it doesn't matter which is up or down to start with.

While there are special tools available for precisely folding etched brass models, a pair of pliers with smooth jaws or a small vice will do a pretty good job.

Completed folding, using a small vice.

If using a vice, for example, the sequence of folding is as follows:

1. Clamp the roofwalk with the ladder pointing up and the etch of the roofwalk level with the top of the jaws.  For this step, the ladder can be roughly in the centre of the vice.
2. Using an object with hard surface and sharp, square corners (such as the handle of a small "engineers" square), fold the ladder away from you.  Take care to NOT fold the straight handrail at the same time, and try to get a nice, sharp fold.  Fold to an angle of about 80 degrees, not the full 90 degrees.
3. Fold the straight handrail towards you, this time to 90 degrees.
4. Reposition the roofwalk in the vice so that the end of the main section of the roofwalk is level with the end of the vice jaws.
5. Fold the loop handrail towards you, to 90 degrees.
6. Repeat for the other end, taking care to match the directions of folding.

Once folded, test fit the roofwalk in position on top of the wagon.  Small, spring tweezers (e.g. Kadee #1020) are useful for lightly clamping it in position at each end.  The ends of the ladders should fit into small notched provided in the side sills of the wagon.  The ends of the ladder may be a fraction of a millimetre too long.  If this is the case, trim the ends using sharp sidecutters or similar tool.  (A Xuron track cutter is ideal.)

Adjust the fold angle of the ladders slightly, if necessary, to ensure the roofwalk sits level on the supports at the end of the wagon while the bottom of the ladders fits into the notches in the side sill.

When satisfied with the fit, glue the ladder in position with superglue.  However,  You may want to consider gluing the roofwalk on only after all other assembly work has been completed as the wagon needs to be handled with care once the roofwalk is fitted, to avoid damaging the handrails on top.

Steps (Same for WW and AGWY/AGSY)

The single, larger step should be fitted to the corner of the wagon nearest the handrake.  The bottom end of the step has a half-etched fold line, and the top of the step should be folded in the opposite direction.  

The three, smaller steps should be fitted in the remaining corners of the wagon.  They require a single 90-degree fold at the top of each step.

Note the step locations and orientation, as per the diagrams below.  Glue the steps to the underside of the wagon with superglue.

Step Locations - Handbrake End

Step Locations - Handbrake End (bottom view)

Handbrake Wheel

A 0.5 mm spigot has been provided on the handbrake assembly, to which the wheel can be glued.  If necessary, open out the central hole in the handbrake wheel with a 0.6 or 0.7 mm drill bit to fit over the spigot.

Weighting

Compartments have been provided at each end of the WW for gluing lead shot or small pieces of sheet lead to add extra weight.  Non-lead based alternatives are also available including "Liquid Gravity".

With the suggested Kadee bogies, the completed WW weighs approx. 60 grams.  For this length wagon, the NMRA recommended weight is 110 grams, although some modellers feel that the NMRA weight recommendations are excessive.  A total weight of somewhere between 90 and 100 grams is probably about right.

Weight Compartments (arrowed)

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  The model pictured has been painted with Testors Model Master Enamel colour "Gelb RLM 04".  (Gelb is German for yellow!)

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WBC Guards Van Construction Tips

The WBC guards van is printed in two sections, representing approx one-third and two-thirds of the van.

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from both parts of the guard's van.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to carefully cut the supports away from the roof, ends, and the underframe.  Take particular care around the steps, gas cylinders and the brake gear underneath the floor.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over both parts and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake gear.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.

Additional "guards" have been printed, as shown below, to protect the side and end steps during production and shipping.  Once all supports have been removed around the steps, these guards can be cut away from the floor of the van.  Altnernatively, you may wish to leave these guards in place until most of the other work on the van has been completed.  Note that there is also a guard behind the dividing bar on the large, rectangular window.

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports which will be visible after assembly.

When finished, test fit the two halves together but do not glue them together until the glazing has been prepared.

Window Glazing

Each side of the WBC has guides adjacent to the windows to secure glazing material and slots in the floor which allow the glazing to be inserted after the model is painted.

However, the glazing must be prepared and test-fitted before the two halves of the body are glued together.  Each piece of glazing is identified by means of lettering on the underside of floor L1-L5, R1-R5.

WBC Glazing Right Side (Left Side is the same)

The glazing material (i.e. 0.25 mm clear styrene) should be cut into strips approx 50 mm long and test fitted into slots and guides.  The widths of the strips are as follows:

R1, R5, L1, L5: 9.75 mm (4 required)

R2, R3, L2, L3: 8.25 mm (4 required)

R4, L4: 12.75 mm (2 required)

Ensure that the slots in the floor for each piece of glazing are free of obstructions, e.g. supports from the 3D printing process.  If necessary, clear the slots using a very fine knife blade until the glazing strips can be inserted from below the floor.

Test fit the glazing strips into the guides either side of the windows.  If necessary, clear out the grooves in the guide using a very fine knife.  Another possible technique is to use a scrap piece of 0.25 mm brass as a tool by inserting it into the slots in the floor.

Once satisfied with the fit of each glazing strip, mark each strip where it won't be visible later with the appropriate position code, i.e. L1-L5, R1-R5 and set it aside.  The strips can be trimmed to length now or later, at the time of final installation.

Body Assembly 

Once the window glazing has been prepared and marked for later installation, the two body sections can be glued together, e.g. with superglue.  Some filling and sanding will be required at the join, particularly on the roof.  The join on the ends is disguised by the vertical ribs.  Tamiya plastic putty works well as a filling material.

When filling and sanding the roof, be careful not to damage the raised ventilator on the roof.  If damaged, a "spare" has been printed within the centre sill on the underframe which can be installed in place of the damaged one.

Fixing Holes

The fixing holes for the couplers and bogies are intended for 2-56 (or 8BA) screws.  The holes  should accept screws without tapping.  If the screws seem particularly tight, drill through with a 1.8 mm drill bit.

Bogies

The Marbelup Models WBC bogies are printed in two identical halves.  A set contains four pieces to make one pair of bogies.  As with other 3D printed parts, the first step is to removed the support structure and clean up the small supports in the holes in the bogie sideframes, around the springs, etc.

The bolster section of each bogie half contains two holes intended for 1.5 x 6 mm self-tapping screws (which are supplied with the bogies).  The larger hole nearest the narrow end of the bolster is a "clearance" hole and should be cleaned out with a 1.5 mm drill.  The smaller hole, nearest the bogie sideframe, should cleaned out with a 1.2 mm drill.  Carefully drive a self-tapping screw into each of the 1.2 mm holes to form the thread.  If it feels tight, back the screw out a bit before continuing.

The bogie sideframes contain holes for fitting brass pinpoint bearings (available from Railwest Models).  These holes should be cleaned out with a 2 mm drill bit, after which the bearings should press fit into place.  The bogies are designed for 10.5 mm disc wheels with 25 mm axles.  Suitable wheels are available from various suppliers, including Steam Era Models (Part No. WH5).  SEM retailers include End of the Line Hobbies in Victor Harbour, SA, Casula Hobbies in Sydney and Train World in Melbourne.

After assembly, clean out the centre pivot hole with a 2.2 mm drill bit to suit 2-56 mounting screws.  (2.2 mm provides adequate clearance without excessive slop.)

Couplers

The WBC is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.  Because the #262 draft gear boxes are a bit hard to obtain, Marbelup Models now supplies these free of charge with each model that requires them.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the various handrails, which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The starter holes will need to be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit in a pin vice.

Handrail Locations

The approx. dimensions for bending each handrail are as follows:

End Handrails: 10.5 mm between hole centres.  4 required each end.

Door Handrails: 16 mm between hole centres.  4 required each side.  Note that these holes are at an angle of approx. 45 degrees, when view from the top of the van.

Door Handles: 1.75 mm between hole centres.  2 required each side.

Roof Handrails: 5 mm between hole centres.  4 required.

Handrails should be fixed in place with superglue.

Brake Rods

There are 5 brake rods which should also be formed from 0.4 mm wire, and the starter holes drilled out with a 0.45 mm drill bit.

Brake Rod Locations

Approx lengths are as follows:

Long brake rod: 33 mm not including right angle bend (approx. 1 mm) at one end.

Medium brake rod: 22 mm not including right angle bend (approx. 1 mm) at one end.

Handbrake rod (near gas cylinders): 10.8 mm not including right angle bends (approx. 1 mm) at both ends.

Brake Lever Rods (near brake cylinder): 11.7 mm and 12.4 mm not including right angle bends (approx. 1 mm) at both ends.

Air Brake Hoses

Small starter holes are provided next to the couplers on each end of the van for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter holes to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.  A suggested drill size is 0.65 mm.

Uncoupling Levers

A spiggot with a vertical fixing hole has been provided underneath the van, next to the coupler, as well as a notched bracket towards the left side of the van, when view from the end.  The uncoupling lever can be shaped from 0.4 mm brass wire, with a 90 degree bend for attachment into the central fixing hole.

The diagram below shows the approximate shape to aim for, but feel free to adjust the measurements to suit your model.

After positioning the uncoupling levers, check that the coupler can swing freely and is not obstructed.  After fixing the uncoupling levers in place, it should still be possible to remove the coupler and draught gear box, e.g. for painting, by sliding it out towards the end of the van.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe, where it would not be seen in normal operation.  Weight can also be fixed inside the van prior to assembling the two parts, but it should be securely fixed in place (e.g. screwed) to ensure it doesn't come loose.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.

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Clerestory Roof Z Van Construction Tips

The clerestory roof Z van is printed in two sections, representing approx one-third and two-thirds of the van.  Versions are available with end platforms at one or both ends.  These instructions apply to both versions.

At this stage, the Sn3½ and4 mm scale version of the van have been produced.

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from both parts of the guard's van.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife  carefully cut the supports away from the roof, ends, and the underframe.  Take particular care around the running boards, brake hoses, handbrake pillars and the brake gear underneath the floor.

Because of the ribbing on the brake hoses, the 3D printer's automatic software has generated many support points, which may have merged into one.  Carefully cut between the brake hose and the support structure, using repeated cuts with a sharp knife (e.g. Olfa snap-off blade type), to separate the support structure, then carefully trim the remnants from the hose.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over both parts and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake rigging.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.

Additional "guards" have been printed, as shown below, to protect the steps during production and shipping.  Once all supports have been removed around the steps, these guards can be cut away from the floor of the van.

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, especially on the edge of the roof on the open side of the main body section.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.  Be sure to clean up remnants of supports on the clerestory roof windows on the open side of the larger section, as these will be difficult to get to once the two sections are joined.

When finished, test fit the two halves together.  Interlock the square pins on the larger section with the square holes on the smaller section. The square pins will each have a "bump" from the supports on the end, so carefully trim these away.

It may be necessary to sand the edge of the roof of the smaller section where if fits under the clerestory roof on the larger section.

When satisfied with the fit, glue the two sections together, e.g. with super glue.  (Note:  If intending to add weight inside the van (See below.), do it now before gluing the sections together.) It may be necessary to lightly clamp the ends of the roof while gluing to get a tight fit.  To get a smooth finish at the join, particularly on the roof, some filling and sanding will be required.  Tamiya plastic putty works well for the filling.

Tapping Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies are intended for 2-56 (or 8BA) screws.  The bogie mounting holes should accept screws without tapping.

Note for 4 mm scale version: Because of the thinness of the floor where the couplers are mounted, the holes should be drilled through with a 1.8 mm drill in a pin vice, and tapped.

Note:  Tapping the holes is preferable to using self-tapping screws which may fracture the material.  Although fairly robust, the material is more brittle than styrene or polyurethane.  

Bogies

Sn3½ version:  Correct bogies are available in kit form from NorthYard in New Zealand - Part No. B1656.  Wheels are included.

4 mm scale version: The VR TT30 bogies from Steam Era Models are a reasonable substitute.  Each bogie fixing on the guards can include two ridges which may need to be ground away to allow the van to sit at the correct height.  The ridges add 0.5 mm to the height.

Couplers

The ZBA is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the van centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Truss Rods

The truss rods can be formed from brass wire.

4 mm Scale Version: From a length of 0.5 or 0.6 mm wire,  64 mm long, form a 18° bend 19 mm in from each end, to leave a horizontal section 26 mm long.

S Scale Version: From a length of 0.8 mm wire, 78 mm long, form a 18° bend 23 mm in from each end, to leave a horizontal section 32 mm long.

The truss rods should fit in the recesses in the bottom of the queen posts and in the grooves provided on the inside of the sideframe members.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the various handrails, which can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The starter holes will need to be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit in a pin vice.

Handrail Locations

The long handrails on each side curve down at the ends, and starter holes have been provided in the corners of the body, which are angled at 45º to the sides and ends.  Turned brass handrail knobs are available in various lengths (e.g. from Markits), to allow for the thickness of the doors (0.8 mm), so that the handrails remain parallel to the sides.  Note that there should be a gap in the handrail on the opening side of the door (closest to the guard's lookout).

The starter holes for the vertical railings at the end go right through the end beams. Take care when drilling these out to keep the hole vertical.  The vertical railings can be inserted from above into the holes in the end beams, then pushed up into the holes in the end of the roof.  If replicating the horizontal rails at the ends, these can be soldered between the vertical railing prior to installation.

4 mm Scale Version:  The horizontal rail should be 12.7 mm above the floor level.  The vertical railings should be 8.5 mm apart (centre to centre).

S Scale Version:  The horizontal rail should be 12.7 mm above the floor level.  The vertical railings should be 8.5 mm apart (centre to centre).

Brake Stands 

The brake stands should have an L-shaped handle, as per the diagram below.  One option is to simply bend a piece of 0.4 mm brass wire and glue it to the top of the brake stand.

A slightly more complex option is to solder a vertical wire to the L-shaped handle, for fixing into the brake stand.  If using this option, the inside of the brake stand is hollow but the upper section would need to be drilled out (0.45 mm) from below to accommodate the vertical wire.

4 mm Scale:  The horizontal part of the handle should be approx. 6.3 mm long and the vertical part approx. 1.8 mm.

S Scale:  The horizontal part of the handle should be approx. 7 mm long and the vertical part approx. 2 mm.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added inside the van or, alternatively, by gluing lead shot or sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe, where it would not be seen in normal operation.  If adding weight inside the van, ensure it is fixed securely (e.g. screwed) so that it can't come loose at a later time, and that the weight is symmetrical about the longitudinal centre line of the van..

For the S scale model, the desired weight is about 95 grams.  (Refer to Sn3½ blog article.)  Using the suggested North Yard bogies, the weight of the van is about 68 grams, so about 27 grams if additional weight is required.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  

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WF/WFW/WFDY Assembly Tips

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from the wagon.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to cut the supports away from visible areas.  Take particular care around the steps.  Note that the steps have guards below them to protect them during production and shipping.  It is suggested to leave these guards in place until the majority of the finishing work on the wagon has been completed, to minimise the risk of damage during handling.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over the wagon and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another including, for example, inside the coupler housing.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.  

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, expecially in the visible areas.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.

Stiffening Rods (Optional)

The WF model includes provision for two metal rods to be inserted within the underframe structure to provide stiffness and guard against possible future warping of the plastic material over time.  Each of the transverse frame members includes two holes approx. 2.2 mm diameter, as part of the 3D print.  The metal rods also add a bit of weight to the wagon.

Location of Stiffening Rods

On the end sill, the hole for the stiffening rod is covered over by a 0.5 mm layer of plastic, opposite the handbrake assembly, as pictured below.  This can easily be drilled through for installation of the rod.  There is a corresponding hole on the diagonally opposite corner of the wagon.

Location of Hole for Stiffening Rod

The rods should be a maximum of 2 mm diameter and 188 mm long.  They can be of any strong metal, e.g. steel or brass.  One source of steel rod is threaded push-rods sold for radio controlled models by manufacturers such as Du-Bro, and available from many hobby shops.  These have a threaded section at one end, but the remainder of the rod is plain, about 1.85 mm diameter. Different lengths are available, e.g. Du-Bro #172 and #173.  Longer lengths are better as several pieces can be cut from it with less wastage.

Once the rod has been glued into position, the hole in the end sill can be filled with modelling putty and lightly sanded to restore the flat surface prior to painting.

Bogie and Coupler Mounting Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies have been printed at 1.8 mm diameter to suit 2-56 screws.  

Due to the difficulty of tapping the blind holes for the bogies, the 3D print includes vertical grooves in the sides of the holes to help the screws cut their own threads, so tapping the holes is not required nor recommended.  Note that the depth of the blind holes is 4.4 mm.  If using Kadee bogies, the supplied screws may need trimming to avoid damaging the floor of the wagon.

The maximum length for the coupler fixing screws is 4 mm.

Note: An economical source of 2-56 screws in various lengths is Little Bird Electronics.

Bogies

The suggested bogies are Kadee #569 or #1569, the only difference being the width of the wheels.  Both Atlas and Athearn make similar bogies, but the advantage of the Kadee ones is that they add some weight to the wagon due to the use of a relatively heavy plastic material.

Couplers

The WMC/WMD is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes, which are available separately, are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the wagon centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Because of the deep end sill on the WF series of wagons, the model has been designed so the coupler and draft gear box slides into a recess via a hole in the end sill.  Make sure that any remnants of support structure from the 3D printing process have been cleaned up from inside the coupler mounting recess.

The draft gear box will probably be a snug fit inside the mounting recess.  A hole had been provided for a 2-56 fixing screw to prevent the coupler from being pulled out.  Note that the maximum length of the screw is 4 mm, so it is likely the screw will have to be cut to length.  Provided a metal screw is first used to create a thread in the provided hole, a nylon screw (e.g. Kadee #256) can be used for the permanent fixing.  A nylon screw is much easier to cut to the desired length.

Note that the height from rail level to the top of coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the square-shaped handrail near the handbrake at each end of the wagon..  The handrail can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The holes should be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit.  The diagram below indicates the dimensions for bending the wire handrail.

Ratchet Handbrake Lever

A short length, approx. 7.5 mm, of 0.4 mm brass wire can be used to simulate the lever of the ratchet handbrake on the end of the wagon.  Glue the wire into the vertical groove in the handbrake assembly.  The top of the wire should be level with the top of the groove, with the remainder of the wire projecting downwards.

Air Brake Hoses

Small brackets are provided next to the couplers on each end of the wagon for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter hole provided in the supporting bracket to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.  A suggested drill size is 0.65 mm.

Uncoupling Levers

A small starter hole has been provided underneath the coupler, as well as a notched bracket towards the left side of the wagon, when view from the end.  The uncoupling lever can be shaped from 0.4 mm brass wire, with a 90 degree bend for attachment into the central fixing hole.   The horizontal portion of the uncoupling lever should be approx. 14 mm long.  The diagram below shows the approximate shape to aim for.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or small pieces of sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe where it would not be seen in normal operation.

Iron Ore Containers

Apart from removing any remaining supports from the 3D printing process, the iron ore containers require little preparation.

The HO version of the container includes two projecting pieces, highlighted in yellow below, which should be cut off and filed/sanded flush with the bottom of the slightly larger, angled projections.  The larger, angled projections are intended to fit into the recesses in the deck of the WFW flat wagon to position the containers.

The reason for the deeper projections is to prevent the angled projections from being sanded flat if the printing supports are removed in the i.Materialise factory.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  The model pictured has been painted with Testors Model Master Enamel colour "Gelb RLM 04".  (Gelb is German for yellow!)

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Customer Photo Gallery

This gallery contains photos of Marbelup Models products built and painted by customers.

Tasmanian HA and HH hopper wagons by Simon Chandler in Sn3½ scale.
The 3rd wagon in the train is an HH, which was made from two HA's welded together.

Tasmanian HA and HH hopper wagons by Simon Chandler (Jul 2015)

Two FD's and two VD's by Adrian Gunzburg (Apr 2014)

VD van with custom decals by Adrian Gunzburg (Apr 2014)

FD van by Adrian Gunzburg (Apr 2014)

ZBA Brake Van by Stuart Mackay (Feb 2014)

Four CXB Sheep Wagons by Neil Blinco (Feb 2014)

Water Columns by Doug Firth (Feb 2014)

Two CXB's built by Adrian Gunzburg of Melbourne (November 2013)

R1903 Diesel Loco, built by LE from Perth (September 2013)

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WOB Iron Ore Wagon Construction Tips

Removing Support Structures

Carefully remove the support structure from the wagon.  It is suggested to use a sharp knife to cut the supports away from visible areas.  Take particular care around the ladder and step.  Note that the ladder and step both have guards below them to protect them during production and shipping.  It is suggested to leave these guards in place until the majority of the finishing work on the wagon has been completed, to minimise the risk of damage during handling.

Once the majority of the support structure has been removed, carefully go over the wagon and cut away the small supports which typically extend from one part to another, for example, around the brake cylinders and other detail items.  An Exacto type hobby knife with a sharp pointed blade (Exacto #11 or similar) is quite useful for getting into the nooks and crannies.  

Go over the model and smooth off any remnants of the fine supports, expecially in the visible areas.  A sanding stick or small file can be useful for this.

Bogie and Coupler Mounting Holes

The mounting holes for the couplers and bogies have been printed at 1.8 mm diameter to suit 2-56 screws.  Clear out the holes with a 1.8 mm drill in a pin vice.

Due to the difficulty of tapping the blind holes for the bogies, the 3D print includes vertical grooves in the sides of the holes to help the screws cut their own threads, so tapping the holes is not required nor recommended.  Note that the depth of the blind holes is 4.4 mm.  If using Kadee bogies, the supplied screws may need trimming to avoid damaging the floor of the wagon.

The holes for mounting the couplers are also blind, but should be drilled right through the floor with a 1.8 mm drill to obtain a strong fixing.  These holes should be tapped 2-56.  Note that one end of the wagon has two blind holes for couplers.  The one closest to the end of the wagon is for a Kadee coupler and the hole closest to the bogie fixing holes is for the rotary coupler option.  

Note: An economical source of 2-56 screws in various lengths is Little Bird Electronics.

Bogies

The suggested bogies are Kadee #569 or #1569, the only difference being the width of the wheels.  Both Atlas and Athearn make similar bogies, but the advantage of the Kadee ones is that they add some weight to the wagon due to the use of a relatively heavy plastic material.

Couplers

Option 1 - Kadees

The WOB is designed for Kadee "whisker" couplers.  Either the #158 (scale size) or #148 (normal size) couplers can be used, with #262 draft gear boxes.

The draft gear boxes supplied with the couplers do not fit as they have a different mounting hole position.  The #262 draft gear boxes are narrower and have been used because they allow details such as the brake hoses to be positioned the scale distance from the wagon centre line.  Also, the #262 draft gear boxes are easier to use as the lid snaps into position.

Note that the height from rail level to the coupler mounting surface should be 11.5 mm, the standard for Kadee couplers.

Option 2 - Glatzl (Sergent) Rotary Couplers

If desired, the wagons can be fitted with a rotary coupler at one end, as per the prototype, to facilitate unloading in a rotary car dumper (tippler).  Glatzl sell working rotary couplers and matching dummy couplers which are available from Sergent Engineering in the US.  The Glatzl couplers will couple with "scale" size Kadees but not with "standard" size Kadees.

Note that it is preferable to use Glatzl dummy couplers rather than a "scale" size Kadee for the "fixed" coupler as the relatively tight fight between the Glatzl rotary and dummy couplers results in better operation with a rotary car dumper.

Typical steps to fit a Glatzl rotary coupler are:

1. Cut the rear portion off the Glatzl draft gear box leaving 16 mm of the draft gear box remaining.
2. Drill a 2.3 mm diameter hole exactly in the centre of the circular mould mark in the coupler box.
3. Fix the coupler to the end of the wagon opposite the ladder and handbrake wheel using a 2-56 screw.

To fit a Glatzl dummy coupler:

1. Use a round needle file to slightly enlarge the hole in the shank of the dummy coupler so that it pivots easily in a Kadee #262 draft gear box.
2. Cut away a small amount of plastic from the rear of the coupler knuckle to allow the coupler to fully swing from side to side in the Kadee #262 draft gear box.
3. Assemble the couple in the #262 draft gear box and snap on the lid.  Fix the assembled coupler to the end of the wagon with the ladder and handbrake wheel using a 2-56 screw.

Handrails

Small starter holes have been provided to locate the vertical handrail next to the handbrake wheel.  The handrail can be formed from 0.4 mm brass wire.  The length of the handrail, between hole centres, is 6.5 mm.  The holes should be drilled out, e.g. with a 0.45 mm drill bit.

Handbrake Wheel

Suitable handbrake wheels are available from a number of suppliers, including etched brass wheels from Model Etch.  Note that at least two styles of wheels have been used on the wagons.

If using etched brass brake wheels, one fixing option is to solder a length of brass wire (e.g. 0.4 mm diameter) to the centre of the brake wheel.  After filing or grinding any excess solder from the front of the wheel, the wire can be trimmed so it protrudes approx. 1.5 mm from the rear of the wheel.  Drill out the starter hole in the handbrake housing, e.g. 0.45 mm diameter, and glue the wire, and wheel, in place.

Air Brake Hoses

Small brackets are provided next to the couplers on each end of the wagon for air brake hoses.  Cast plastic hoses are available from Detail Associates, part number 6206.  Carefully drill out the starter hole provided in the supporting bracket to suit the diameter of the "pipe" on the air hose.

Weighting

If required, additional weight can be added by gluing lead shot or small pieces of sheet lead between the various frame members of the underframe where it would not be seen in normal operation.

Painting

Either enamel or acrylic hobby paints can be used to paint the finished model.  The model pictured has been painted with Testors Model Master Enamel colourL "Signal Yellow".

Note that photos of virtually every WOB in various states of weathering are available at the Pilbara Railways web site.

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